Good measurements, now you know the BAS is not active. To confirm, you did short the trigger of the two wires correct? (at the hobbs pressure switch)

Unplug the RCA connector from the BAS 'knob box' and measure the resistance from the two conductors. Ensure the resistance changes when you turn the dial from 0 to 100.

 

New readings updated above. I checked the wrong wire sorry.

 

Much better. Looks like the BAS is wired and working properly. To eliminate the hobbs pressure switch, short the trigger input and take the car for a spin. See if you still get spark blow-out. Set the BAS to about 35%.

 

99SH - you're forgetting my point lol. I still had spark blow out at 27 psi!! With stock coils and no BAS, it was the same exact way..27psi.

 

How many miles on the coils? They start to go south at around 50k I believe. Sounds to me like you need some sort of relayed power source to get the extra power to up the coil output. I can't imagine the BAS not having some sort of extra source to be able to do that, but maybe I'm just missing something here.

 

No, I think we're on the same page

By shorting the trigger to the BAS, the BAS is always ON. This is different than your initial (failed run) with stock coils and no BAS.

This config is with stock coils and BAS always ON. Shorting the trigger will allow BAS to run at the boosted voltage vs waiting for the hobbs switch to close at 3 psi and then boosting voltage. Point here is to exonerate (or deem fault) the hobbs switch and hoses going to it.

 

Lol...no man! I had issues before the BAS and I STILL have issues with the BAS running. On the dyno I had the BAS running full time without the hobbs switch. I connected both wires to ensure it ran the entire time. During the pulls I used all the settings all the way up to max of 50 and it still blew out the spark @27 psi .019 plug gap. Bigger gaps didnt work at all either.

The point it...the BAS is not fixing my spark issues....not even a little bit. Are we on the same page now? haha

 

I didn't read all that on my cell. But mine helped tremendously. If you are seeing things dim, I think that's bc it's not getting clean power. Should be running direct off your battery for power.


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I'll add, BAS is on pass side fender where battery used to be, tapped into coils between firewall and motor, ground and power to trunk battery along with the "adjuster module".




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Alright, I get it now Didnt realize you had it shorted during the runs.

What plugs are you running?

Maybe a new set of coils + plugs and giving it another shot?