Boost too low?
cover your fenders and shoot some anti belt slip on it you can get it at an auto parts store make a pull see if boost goes up if so you have a loose belt and at 11 psi you can play a tune on that thing. some one needs to fab a cog drive system
. if that doesn't help bench test the recirculation valve pull a vacuum and see if it opens release vacuum should close and as boost leaks go less than 15 psi not much problems I run 60 psi on my truck and when you blow a intake boot it sounds like a 50 cal rifle it'll make your heart stop good luck post up if you find something weird
. if that doesn't help bench test the recirculation valve pull a vacuum and see if it opens release vacuum should close and as boost leaks go less than 15 psi not much problems I run 60 psi on my truck and when you blow a intake boot it sounds like a 50 cal rifle it'll make your heart stop good luck post up if you find something weird
A boost leak detector is your friend.
You can get them off of ebay or make your own. Several videos on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3HmH86CCXE
I had several major leaks and now none.
You can get them off of ebay or make your own. Several videos on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3HmH86CCXE
I had several major leaks and now none.
at 20 psi I can believe that. one thing I found was that my silicone coupler from supercharger to aftercooler was seeping oil so I guess those can leak or break down. I had a leaky impeller seal caused by pcv valve not holding boost that could be somewhere to look as sideways said boost leak detector
Update:
I added an extra T-fitting up at the intake manifold, ran a gauge out through the top of the hood by the wiper, and back into the cabin. I had a buddy watching, and he observed the car make linear boost all the way up to redline, peaking out at 8 psi.
I went through and checked some potentially suspect areas, and found two items of interest:
1) the worm gear holding the coupler from the blower to the aftercooler was loose, I could actually move the coupler almost completely off of the aftercooler by hand.
2) the clamp holding connecting the hose to the recirculation valve on the boost side was broken and loose
I replaced / refitted all of these connections, along with cleaning the air filter and re-torquing down all of the hose / coupler connections on the setup. I also sprayed some belt dressing on just in case.
After that, the car looked to be seeing 8.5-9 lbs of boost at peak, also behaving linear all the way to redline. My friend called it an observed 8.75 on the gauge, as he said it was hard to tell if the needle was bouncing, or actually made it up to 9 psi.
I also did a little data logging on an obd2 scan tool I have, using a peak hold gauge set, and peak hold showed 9 psi on 2 separate runs. Unfortunately it doesn't show tenths, and I'm not sure how it's calculating peak.
At any rate, my results were contrary to what the tuner observed. I'm going to try to get all of the data logging files from him and dig through them myself. For now, it seems like I'm getting roughly the 9 psi expected, and nothing seems obviously out of sorts.
However -- per Sideway's suggestion, I'm totally going to build a boost leak detector and give that a whirl just for added troubleshooting and peace of mind. Thanks all for the help!
I added an extra T-fitting up at the intake manifold, ran a gauge out through the top of the hood by the wiper, and back into the cabin. I had a buddy watching, and he observed the car make linear boost all the way up to redline, peaking out at 8 psi.
I went through and checked some potentially suspect areas, and found two items of interest:
1) the worm gear holding the coupler from the blower to the aftercooler was loose, I could actually move the coupler almost completely off of the aftercooler by hand.
2) the clamp holding connecting the hose to the recirculation valve on the boost side was broken and loose
I replaced / refitted all of these connections, along with cleaning the air filter and re-torquing down all of the hose / coupler connections on the setup. I also sprayed some belt dressing on just in case.
After that, the car looked to be seeing 8.5-9 lbs of boost at peak, also behaving linear all the way to redline. My friend called it an observed 8.75 on the gauge, as he said it was hard to tell if the needle was bouncing, or actually made it up to 9 psi.
I also did a little data logging on an obd2 scan tool I have, using a peak hold gauge set, and peak hold showed 9 psi on 2 separate runs. Unfortunately it doesn't show tenths, and I'm not sure how it's calculating peak.
At any rate, my results were contrary to what the tuner observed. I'm going to try to get all of the data logging files from him and dig through them myself. For now, it seems like I'm getting roughly the 9 psi expected, and nothing seems obviously out of sorts.
However -- per Sideway's suggestion, I'm totally going to build a boost leak detector and give that a whirl just for added troubleshooting and peace of mind. Thanks all for the help!
Right, which is why I'm trying to get ahold of the data from the dyno runs to verify those findings.
What's odd is that nothing in my setup changed between the dyno session and when I hooked up a boost gauge and had a buddy monitor it -- and we observed boost climbing all the way to redline. I was seeing roughly 7 lbs at 7k as the tuner mentioned, but it didn't stop there, it absolutely kept building to redline, even while monitoring via obd2 (albeit with a slower refresh time). <shrug>
What's odd is that nothing in my setup changed between the dyno session and when I hooked up a boost gauge and had a buddy monitor it -- and we observed boost climbing all the way to redline. I was seeing roughly 7 lbs at 7k as the tuner mentioned, but it didn't stop there, it absolutely kept building to redline, even while monitoring via obd2 (albeit with a slower refresh time). <shrug>
I swapped over to t-bolt clamps after installing my SC setup and really prefer them over the typical worm gear clamps. They are typically a bit wider/thicker and of higher quality and I trust them to hold a bit tighter. They just look better when installed as well. I measured the diameter of each surface I was clamping on and bought the correct sizes from here: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...f844db0d633fbd
Just a quick update to this - I finally got ahold of the datalog files from my original tune and did a pull of my own. Roughly, here are the results:
RPMs Dyno Post Dyno
3000 0.2 0.5
4000 1.1 1.5
5000 2.0 2.3
6000 3.2 3.5
6500 4.1 4.4
7000 4.9 5.2
7500 5.8 6.0
8000 6.6 7.1
8250 7.1 7.6
8500 7.6 8.1
I'm seeing roughly 0.5 lbs of additional boost across the board, which likely has more to do with the air temperature (roughly 40 degrees now versus 80 degrees dyno) than much else.
I believe the boost figures published by SoS are more meant for 8000/8200 on an AP2 as opposed to the 8500 I'm running mine up to, so it still seems as though I'm at least 2 lbs of boost off the mark, oddly enough.
If any FlashPro wizards happen to exist out there, I'm happy to send along my data logging files. I'm at a bit of a loss here as I've poured over the bits of the kit and nothing seems obviously awry.
RPMs Dyno Post Dyno
3000 0.2 0.5
4000 1.1 1.5
5000 2.0 2.3
6000 3.2 3.5
6500 4.1 4.4
7000 4.9 5.2
7500 5.8 6.0
8000 6.6 7.1
8250 7.1 7.6
8500 7.6 8.1
I'm seeing roughly 0.5 lbs of additional boost across the board, which likely has more to do with the air temperature (roughly 40 degrees now versus 80 degrees dyno) than much else.
I believe the boost figures published by SoS are more meant for 8000/8200 on an AP2 as opposed to the 8500 I'm running mine up to, so it still seems as though I'm at least 2 lbs of boost off the mark, oddly enough.
If any FlashPro wizards happen to exist out there, I'm happy to send along my data logging files. I'm at a bit of a loss here as I've poured over the bits of the kit and nothing seems obviously awry.
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