update 3/22/2010:

I have decided to build my head. I am pretty sure that I will go with a supertech valve train (valves, dual springs, ti retainers) and let a local machine shop do the work. I do not plan on going with over sized valves since I wont be doing any porting. The machine shop I am taking my head to was recommend by a few local members. I have already called the shop and they seem very knowledgeable about s2000 head builds.


cliff notes:

I have a Peakboost turbo kit that will be arriving next week with a gt35r, an Inline Pro 3mm HG, and ARP headstuds. I'm pretty sure my oem head gasket is blown. I am getting compression and leak down test done next week. With that said here are my essential questions:

I have to pull my head to replace the HG, what else should I do to it while it's off?
Should I upgrade my vavletrain or are there certain parts I want to focus on like valves?
Is a port and polish worth it?
A local guy is selling a head with brian crower DUAL VALVE SPRINGS, TITANIUM RETAINERS, NEW VALVE SEATS AND SEALS. . HAS +1MM INTAKE VALVES AND .5MM OVER ON EXHAUST SIDE. HAS BEEN MILLED 5 THOUSANTHS for $900 is this a good deal and is it good for boost?
If I need to replace my piston rings should I just stay oem or do I have more options outside of a build?
Is it a must to tap the girdle instead of the oil pan?
Were is a good place to buy the updated banjo bolts?

end cliff notes

Hello everyone, I am proud to say that I am joining the forced induction community. I knew when I bought my s2000 that I wanted to boost so for the past 2 years I have been putting money in a turbo fund. I have been reading and doing research about boost for the past 2 years as well, I honestly believe I have read everyone's build thread over the past couple years. I have an 01 ap1 and I ordered a Peakboost turbo kit. Why I went with Peakboost: Irishflames thread was my introduction to Peakboost and a huge reason I went with a Peakboost kit. I read his thread and liked everything I saw and I was impressed with his numbers. Then I called Peakboost and spoke with Ken several times for a good amount of time just to ask him questions about the kit. I even told him that I was looking at other kits and he only had good things to say about them. I did more research and a couple weeks later I called Peakboost once again and ordered his kit. There were a few extra things that I wanted with my kit and he didnt hesitate to make sure I got exactly what I wanted, his customer service is top notch and I cant say enough about it. This is what I am getting with my order a garrett gt35r with a .63 exhaust side (if it chokes up top then i'll just go to a bigger exhaust side), braided SS oil and coolant lines, aem boost solenoid, walbro 255, 3 inch test pipe, and a vacuum block. I also got Ken to send out the manifold, dumptube, downpipe, and turbine exhaust housing to HPC for a coating. I havent ordered the injectors yet but I will either get 900s or 1000s, I am going to order want ever injectors my tuner prefers (if you have some for sale let me know). My kit should be here next week and I am stoked. Here is a run down of whats on my car now:

Richmond 4.56 gears (not sure if this will be good with over 400whp but the gears were a hell of a deal)
AEM EMS 1052u
replaced transmission (slave cylinder mount broke on my old one)
6 puck Stage 4 Comp Clutch
2.5 megan single exhaust (i'm selling this and getting a 3inch single let me know if you have one for sale)

parts that are already here and waiting:

Mishimoto aluminum radiator and low temp fan switch
2 puller fans
aluminum fan shroud
inline pro 3mm HG
ARP head studs
Updated banjo bolts (will be ordered soon)

I would just like some options/advice to better help me when I start my build. Right now I am pretty sure my oem head gasket is a little blown. Here are the symptoms: the car starts but it takes a while as in I have to let go of the start button then try to start again about 4 or 5 times, the heat in the car is cold, the car puts out white smoke when it's first started, and finally my car starts to over heat. The cooling system was bled very good from the front and back and as far as the starting issue I changed my plugs and check my ignition coils and had to replace one but that still didnt help. These issues of course happened after I ordered my turbo kit so as of right now I dont drive my s2000 because I dont want to inflict further damage. I'm getting a compression and leak down test done next week and hopefully that will confirm it is the head gasket. When I pull the head I will take it to a machine shop to be check for levelness and get a mil if needed. Hopefully this wont happen but If it turns out that I need to replace my pistons rings should I just stay oem or do I have more options outside of a build? Where is a good place to buy the updated banjo bolts? What else should I do while the head is off that is relatively cheap? Should I port and polish, replace my valves, or even do a valve train upgrade? If my valves still have a good seal do I still need to replace them? There is a guy local to me selling a head, here is the description "A 2000 S2K HEAD, FULLY BUILT. EVERYTHING IN THE HEAD IS BRIAN CROWER (DUAL VALVE SPRINGS, TITANIUM RETAINERS, NEW VALVE SEATS AND SEALS. . HAS +1MM INTAKE VALVES AND .5MM OVER ON EXHAUST SIDE. HAS BEEN MILLED 5 THOUSANTHS. " $900. I am relocating my battery to where the airbox sits and I am currenty debating whether I am going to build a heat shield for my fuse box or tuck it in the fender. I just dont want to have to pull my fender off if i need to go into the fuse box for some reason. As far as turbo cooling goes I will be welding a couple extra elbows into the factory oil cooler because it seems like people have had good success with that way. The oil source will be where the factory pressure sensor is. I dont know if i'll tee it straight from the engine yet because I have read that it can break if there isnt a buffer so I may add a short piece of braided SS line unless there is a better way. For oil return I read that some people say tap the pan and others say tap the girlde. I will more than likely have the girdle tapped because I want to mitigate as many risk as possible. I'll be doing most of the work my self including pulling the head and the entire turbo kit install. I'll get professionals to modify the oil cooler, do any tapping, or head work if needed. I live in VA about 3 hours from Inline Pro so I will be taking my car to them on a trailer to get tuned. As far as power goals go I'll be happy with anything over 400whp but my agenda is to make as much power as possible with the parts I ordered. That's why I got a kit with a ELTM manifold as opposed to a log, a ball bearing gt35 as opposed to T3/To4e, and why I am am going with a single exhaust over a dual. One thing that sticks out in most of the forced induction threads is to go big from the get go and to not "excuse my french" pussy foot around with logs or smaller turbos if you know you get power hungry. Sorry this post is so long but I just wanted to give a good description of my car, my cars current problem, my goals, and a general feeling of what I'm going for. I'll appreciate any advice that you can give me or if it seems like I got everything covered then just tell me. Thanks, i'll shut up now

 

Wow. Cliffs plz. What is the question?

 

I'm on it

 

Daamn. Home boy did some homework! Here at s2ki we prefer spontaneous purchases followed by months of regret. BAN PLZ! lol

 

I am trying to avoid the whole regret part and I did a lot of HW, it just never hurts to get more input from outside sources

 

I'm interested to see what your compression comes out to be. I agree with you that it sounds like the head gasket when bye bye! Oh and don't bother asking anywhere like advance auto or oreilly for a leakdown tester BC they will drool for a few minutes then tell u that you are making up part names. I hate those ppl....

 

first off, I want to say AWESOME choice with the Peakboost kit, I am so happy with my kit, and the customer service that Ken (Peakboost) provides is worth its weight in gold with me.. He is simply the best ......

Anyway, Im think you should easily make your power goal with that setup, My car on shitty AZ pump 91oct made 454whp at 13~psi and ran like and absolute ANIMAL lol, We have since starting pulling the car apart going with a big boy fuel system, built head, catch can/overflow setup, BEP/BW S366, and switching from AEM to KPRO, and a fresh paint job lol

to further answer your questions....

I have to pull my head to replace the HG, what else should I do to it while it's off?
If pulling the head i would at least take it to a local machine shop, to make sure the head is straight and true, that way you arent fighting HG or overheating issues in the future

Should I upgrade my vavletrain or are there certain parts I want to focus on like valves?
For your power goals i think that while the head is at the machine shop, have them check your exhaust valves and valve guides to check for warpage, and i would replace the stock AP1 retainers with factory AP2 ones, big power has been made on the stock AP2 retainers with no issues...

Is a port and polish worth it?
NO, the stock head flows more than you will ever need

A local guy is selling a head with brian crower DUAL VALVE SPRINGS, TITANIUM RETAINERS, NEW VALVE SEATS AND SEALS. . HAS +1MM INTAKE VALVES AND .5MM OVER ON EXHAUST SIDE. HAS BEEN MILLED 5 THOUSANTHS for $900 is this a good deal and is it good for boost?
I would personally stay away from the BC stuff, i have heard bad things about them, If you wanted a complete built head, Hands down talk to Mike @ Laskey Racing, he can build you a fully built Supertech head for the same price...

If I need to replace my piston rings should I just stay oem or do I have more options outside of a build?
OEM are fine for the piston rings, only other options for pistons would be replacing them with a FRM compliant piston, which cost $$$$

Is it a must to tap the girdle instead of the oil pan?
I tapped my oil pan with my 35r, and had no issues, but im thinking that the girdle is the better option....

Were is a good place to buy the updated banjo bolts?
Honda Dealer, 2003+ use the updated bolt

I hope i helped alittle, cant wait to see your build!!!

 

As for the comment about BC Parts, I have bc dual core valve springs, retainers, valves, and cams. I have no trouble with them and love their easy to reach, friendly customer support. But that'si. just one mans opinion. I've HEARD a lot but never met a first hand experienced person with BC issues.

Also I tapped my pan and had a leak at first but fixed it in a matter of minutes with zero issues since.

 

Thanks Irishflame, i'm basically just trying to figure out if I'm on the same page as other boosted s2000 owners.

ap1tuner how did the BC valve train change the s2000?

 

I am personally against 3mm HG's but if you're willing to take the risk run it I guess.

As far as the piston rings, head work and stuff goes...whats your budget? If you can afford it, do it right the first time. But if the head checks out and is fine I wouldn't mess with it at all.

I don't think you're going to like the gears with the power you're aiming for.