Bought a new project engine...
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Bought a new project engine...
Hey I picked up a AP1 engine that I am going to build for more boost/hp. I have a compression tester and the flywheel and starter are still on the engine so I can check compression.
I was debating putting the motor into my car for a week or two N/A just to see how it runs and if it burns oil, etc. but if I can save myself the hastle it would be better.
What other things can I check? I was going to check retainers, oil squirter bolts(to ensure I have the updated ones)...anything else?
I am planning to upgrade the oil squirter bolts, ARP head studs, and 2mm HG. Then turn up the boost...
Should I just run the motor in my car for a couple weeks to be safe before I begin the build?
I have no history on the engine so this is why im asking
I was debating putting the motor into my car for a week or two N/A just to see how it runs and if it burns oil, etc. but if I can save myself the hastle it would be better.
What other things can I check? I was going to check retainers, oil squirter bolts(to ensure I have the updated ones)...anything else?
I am planning to upgrade the oil squirter bolts, ARP head studs, and 2mm HG. Then turn up the boost...
Should I just run the motor in my car for a couple weeks to be safe before I begin the build?
I have no history on the engine so this is why im asking
#2
Swapping an engine is a lot of work. Why not spend a little extra time and money and rebuild the block with low compression pistons and then swap it once rather than twice?
#3
Registered User
Originally Posted by AusS2000,Oct 11 2009, 04:49 PM
Swapping an engine is a lot of work. Why not spend a little extra time and money and rebuild the block with low compression pistons and then swap it once rather than twice?
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well the engine is low milaege so I know it should be alright I just wanted to be sure. Also i'll look into it further but I was under the impression it wasn't a good idea to buy low compression pistons because the "frm" compatable pistons were not all the hype they may seem. My tuner suggested either 2mm headgasket or sleeve the block and do a full "proper" build
any thoughts?
any thoughts?
#5
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Thread Starter
Forgot to mention by swapping in the motor I meant I would put the motor in my car in stock form, drive it n/a on the stock ecu for a week or two, then pull the head with the engine in the car and install 2mm headgasket and arp headstuds...
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#9
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by AusS2000,Oct 12 2009, 04:39 PM
What the heck? What does that mean?
I know that doing the headgasket would be much easier with the engine out of the bay but like I said I want to assure the engine is 100% before I start messing with it and have to chase a neverending problem!