Building block
I scored my 4th cylinder, only have 75psi in that one. So I am deciding between just replacing the short block or building it. If they cost about the same, I might as well rebuild, but then I would have to increase boost to make up for lower compression.
I want to keep my vortech, I was only going to 9psi without internals, but might as well go higher boost (12psi) if I build the motor. Really, all I want is 350-375whp. I want to keep it daily driven.
Can you guys give me advice on what parts I should get for the build and what it should cost for the parts and labor?
Should I do anything to the head? Do I need to do anything to the head?
I know sideways has a lot of power on the stock block and head work with his Vortech, so I really dont know if I need to build the block.
I want to keep my vortech, I was only going to 9psi without internals, but might as well go higher boost (12psi) if I build the motor. Really, all I want is 350-375whp. I want to keep it daily driven.
Can you guys give me advice on what parts I should get for the build and what it should cost for the parts and labor?
Should I do anything to the head? Do I need to do anything to the head?
I know sideways has a lot of power on the stock block and head work with his Vortech, so I really dont know if I need to build the block.
Personally, for 350whp I would just go with a stock block. Do some head work if I had cash left.
I think I've nailed the 300+ to 400whp section pretty good on here:
http://www.s2000turbo.com/tech/whentoupgrade.htm
I think I've nailed the 300+ to 400whp section pretty good on here:
http://www.s2000turbo.com/tech/whentoupgrade.htm
Originally Posted by kane.s2k,Mar 10 2006, 12:32 PM
Personally, for 350whp I would just go with a stock block. Do some head work if I had cash left.
I think I've nailed the 300+ to 400whp section pretty good on here:
http://www.s2000turbo.com/tech/whentoupgrade.htm
I think I've nailed the 300+ to 400whp section pretty good on here:
http://www.s2000turbo.com/tech/whentoupgrade.htm
Is it really that much more cost to rebuild then to put a new block in?
Anybody have an idea of how much in parts and labor it is to build a motor? I have called a few shops but they all said they would have to get back to me after they get parts pricing.
Any other parts/brands to consider? Sleeves? Pistons? Rods?
Almost all of that you are asking was covered in the link I posted. To build a block it's $3500 for just building the block, not covering building the head for better flow and rev protection, doesn't include putting the whole block together and inside your car. You are looking at about $10k to go over 400whp. This includes things like a AEM EMS, clutch, tunning, gauges, etc. Also included some info about injectors in there just now as well.
The parts and brands are in the link as well. I would give it to Laskey Racing personally and have them do benson sleeves, CP Pistons, Pauter rods.
The parts and brands are in the link as well. I would give it to Laskey Racing personally and have them do benson sleeves, CP Pistons, Pauter rods.
Short block and building are not the same price- ~$2k vs. $3500. As for the head, I wouldn't waste the money having it polished if you're only looking to get close to 400. At Laskey, that alone saves $700. I get mine back Monday. 
NO S8NT just dyno'd his Vortech at 417/253 on a DynoJet(I believe). Built motor- 3" exhaust.

NO S8NT just dyno'd his Vortech at 417/253 on a DynoJet(I believe). Built motor- 3" exhaust.
Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Mar 10 2006, 08:27 PM
Short block and building are not the same price- ~$2k vs. $3500. As for the head, I wouldn't waste the money having it polished if you're only looking to get close to 400. At Laskey, that alone saves $700. I get mine back Monday. 
NO S8NT just dyno'd his Vortech at 417/253 on a DynoJet(I believe). Built motor- 3" exhaust.

NO S8NT just dyno'd his Vortech at 417/253 on a DynoJet(I believe). Built motor- 3" exhaust.
And yes that was a DynoJet that NO S8NT got his numbers off of
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Naveed, even NA folks with stock redlines have had cracked retainers. Changing out retainers and valve springs before something gives is a lot cheaper than waiting for it to happen.
And since the retainers and springs can be changed out with the head on the motor, either you can do it yourself or at worst, it's still cheaper than replacing valves(head removal required).
And since the retainers and springs can be changed out with the head on the motor, either you can do it yourself or at worst, it's still cheaper than replacing valves(head removal required).
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