Ohh...I see. You are basically saying that forged valves would be better suited for FI applications.

 

Or so I have been told by qualified sources. For example, Ti rods don't endure the heat as well as say 4340 forged chromoly rods.

 

Really? I would not have thought that con rod temperatures got more than a few hundred degrees. I never worried about heat cycling when considering material selection. First choice to make in picking a rod is material, and tied to this is production method (forging usually), heat treatment, surface prep (polish parting lines to relieve stress risers and then shot peening for strength), and geometry (H or I-beam). Strength of material determines required size and weight. Size affects clearance and windage. Weight limits redline due to acceleration forces. Titanium rods have been used for years in endurance race engines due to great strength/weight ratio. This includes GP and Superbike motorcycle engines with much higher redlines and acceleration forces than our f20c. This may not be the hot setup today, though.

 

The purpose of lightening rotating or reciprocating assemblies is if you want to increase rpm capability. Go with steel for strength and durability. You can gain a little power from using lighter components other than the extra revs but not enough to be worth it in most cases.

 

Sure, but a race motor is torn down after a certain number of HOURS or races.

Ti is fine to race on even with boost, but unless you have major sponsors for your street car, race components giving smaller gains and requiring frequent rebuilds and costing 3-4X the 4340 parts are more trouble than they are worth.

I can't imagine pulling a motor apart to magnaflux the rods on a street car
"They're fine, we'll do it again next oil change..."

 

i've used ti retainers for well more than 10k and did'nt have excessive wear.

 

A lower Compression ratio motor NA will make less power than stock.

I'd probably buy a LoveFab kit with a 2mm gasket and run the motor untill it breaks, then build a new one. The OEM shortblock is built to tighter tolerances than what many shops can hold.

 

Thanks for your feedback.

I am interested in the Full-Race Stage 3 GT turbo kit. If I don't build the engine prior to going FI, I'd probably keep the boost down to about 8-10 psi, get used to the added power, and then build the motor / crank the boost.

BTW...what is the purpose behind a 2mm gasket? I am not a mechanic so please excuse my ignorance.

 

To cheaply lower static compression, without changing pistons.

 

I did a quick search on King Motorsports' website and didn't find a 2mm head gasket. I found an 89mm and 90mm one. You were referring to the head gasket, right?