Okay guys, looking for some input here. I have a fully built 10:1 F20C (details at bottom) that is close to being completed, and I'm extremely worried about one thing that could be a big issue. The headgasket. The idiots at the machine shop that decked my block cut WAY TOO MUCH off of it, and short version, the stock 0.030 head gasket is too thin now. I have full confidence in the mechanic building and assembling the motor for me, and he wasn't involved with the deck issue. (Previous owner I bought the disassembled shortblock from did that). Result is, with the head still uncut, I need a 0.060 head gasket to make up the lost block material, and keep the compression ratio the same. (10:1 Comp CP pistons). The plan was to use ARP head studs.
- Now, Cometic makes a 0.060 HG that will make up the lost area, but the more research I do, the more scared I am getting about using ARP studs and a Cometic gasket, as the ARP studs seem to have a horrible lifespan on these cars, and even lower with MLS gaskets.

-At the moment, the car is NOT boosted, but will be in the future (built for future boost). Car is currently dailyed, but will not be whenever the time for forced induction comes. The goal is an easy 420-470 hp, not any more.
-I've got a couple of possible ideas / thoughts, and I want to get some opinions / feedback.

- 1 - If torqued properly, letting them sit and retorque after, following all precautions for studs AND gasket, the ARP's should be fine with the Cometic gasket FOR NOW, while N/A. Whether they would hold later, who knows.

- 2 - Use a set of new OEM Honda head bolts instead of the ARP studs. I don't really have any reason to think they would fail at that power level (420-470), and certainly not N/A, but the added height concerns me, even as insignificant as it is, as everyone seems to switch when using thicker gaskets.

- 3 - Suck it up, and try to find a set of FBM H11's, as I am certain they will hold from all reviews and research.

- 4 - Or, last option, try option 1 for now, using the ARP's while N/A, and find a set of the FBM H11's to switch to for boost later. I would need to predrill the head for them, and possibly use an extra dowel or two to make sure everything is aligned properly without them.

Situation absolutely sucks, but I have so much money in the stupid thing, the only way to move is forward.

- Any advice is appreciated.

Engine build list, for reference.
Block -
OEM crank
Darton dry sleeves
CP 10:1 pistons
BC rods
ACL std. size bearings
Head -
Supertech 92 lb dual valve springs
Supertech Steel retainers (for longevity, may switch to TI for FI) (popular among K-series owners)
Ferrea valve locks / keepers
Supertech valve guides
OEM valve seals
Ferrea 6000 series valves
OEM cams

 

Keep a very close eye on your valve lash with the Ferrea valves. I had my set stretch and go out of round, kept causing lash to come in very tight. I had the Ferrea comp plus valves which have been returned to ferrea for analysis. I had everything installed by the book at a very reputable shop.

 

AS much as I appreciate the sarcastic reply, you missed the bit where I said I didn't deal with the machine shop. At all. No receipts. No proof. I bought the motor from a owner who had it half assembled. The block had already been decked and sleeved. And no, I can't try to pin it all to the seller either. He has been uncooperative, and on hold for deployment at anytime, so I've been told, so just pursuing that further is pointless.

 

Personally I would go with the fbm head studs.in my opinion it's worth spending the extra $300 for them knowing you won't have any issues. I was in the same situation minus the block decking issue. I couldn't decide on head studs. I only plan on making 600-700ish. And it sucks spending the money on the fbm ones but it's Def worth it. To me it's worth the extra money then having to worry about pulling the head in 3k miles to replace the gasket or have to worry about anything. I went with the fbm ones myself.

 

This is what I am planning for my next engine: http://www.alamomotorsports.com/sce_.../sce_honda.htm

 

I'm putting down 616 to the wheel and have never had any issues with my arp studs. As for the cometic gasket I have had 2 of them go out on me.