A/C Not working!
Well got the car back and they said there wasnt any freon in it. They said it had leaked out.... They then refilled it with green dye to show where it leaks. They said when they filled it that the pressure build so highs so high that they didnt want to keep the compressor on. They said the fan wouldnt come on. They also said there was a puddle under the compressor whee it leaked..
When i got home, I jumped the high pressure switch, the compressor comes on and so does the fan. My questions is... is it possible they are shoving all 22-23oz of freon on the low side without having the compressor on and it has such a significant pressure that it is forcing its way out of the compressor? It come out at the compressor, out of the line going into the compressor it looks like.
When i got home, I jumped the high pressure switch, the compressor comes on and so does the fan. My questions is... is it possible they are shoving all 22-23oz of freon on the low side without having the compressor on and it has such a significant pressure that it is forcing its way out of the compressor? It come out at the compressor, out of the line going into the compressor it looks like.
Do not keep running the the compressor with it empty of r-134a. That switch that you jump to get the compressor to run is a safety so it doesn't run with low r-134a and damage the compressor.
Did they show you where it leaked from? That is where you need to start. Find the leak (probably an o-ring), fix it, and then get it it re-vacuumed and charged.
When you take it back to get re-vacuumed, ask them how long they hold vacuum on it to see if it leaks.
Did they show you where it leaked from? That is where you need to start. Find the leak (probably an o-ring), fix it, and then get it it re-vacuumed and charged.
When you take it back to get re-vacuumed, ask them how long they hold vacuum on it to see if it leaks.
Do not keep running the the compressor with it empty of r-134a. That switch that you jump to get the compressor to run is a safety so it doesn't run with low r-134a and damage the compressor.
Did they show you where it leaked from? That is where you need to start. Find the leak (probably an o-ring), fix it, and then get it it re-vacuumed and charged.
When you take it back to get re-vacuumed, ask them how long they hold vacuum on it to see if it leaks.
Did they show you where it leaked from? That is where you need to start. Find the leak (probably an o-ring), fix it, and then get it it re-vacuumed and charged.
When you take it back to get re-vacuumed, ask them how long they hold vacuum on it to see if it leaks.
Originally Posted by D1sclaimer' timestamp='1312999898' post='20865427
Do not keep running the the compressor with it empty of r-134a. That switch that you jump to get the compressor to run is a safety so it doesn't run with low r-134a and damage the compressor.
Did they show you where it leaked from? That is where you need to start. Find the leak (probably an o-ring), fix it, and then get it it re-vacuumed and charged.
When you take it back to get re-vacuumed, ask them how long they hold vacuum on it to see if it leaks.
Did they show you where it leaked from? That is where you need to start. Find the leak (probably an o-ring), fix it, and then get it it re-vacuumed and charged.
When you take it back to get re-vacuumed, ask them how long they hold vacuum on it to see if it leaks.
Both "sides" are gonna be rated to withstand the same psi as each other as they are essentially the same line. I do not think your theory is a valid reason for the leak.
Wheres the leak at? did you put oil on all the o rings ? Are all the orings installed?
They should be pulling a vacuum for 30mins to an hr. Then when they add the charge they should know if its leaking. You need to find the leak before you can charge again. I would double check all your orings and make sure everything is tight. All the male fittings should have an o ring and all the machined blocks also.
They should be pulling a vacuum for 30mins to an hr. Then when they add the charge they should know if its leaking. You need to find the leak before you can charge again. I would double check all your orings and make sure everything is tight. All the male fittings should have an o ring and all the machined blocks also.
Wheres the leak at? did you put oil on all the o rings ? Are all the orings installed?
They should be pulling a vacuum for 30mins to an hr. Then when they add the charge they should know if its leaking. You need to find the leak before you can charge again. I would double check all your orings and make sure everything is tight. All the male fittings should have an o ring and all the machined blocks also.
They should be pulling a vacuum for 30mins to an hr. Then when they add the charge they should know if its leaking. You need to find the leak before you can charge again. I would double check all your orings and make sure everything is tight. All the male fittings should have an o ring and all the machined blocks also.
Im thinking this is a possibility. I still havent climbed under my car to really check it out yet. Hopefully they didnt break something and its just a leak!
Holy shit there's a lot of bad info here buddy. I'm an ase master tec and I also have the ac relocate lines on my car.
First, of all there is absolutely no need to turn on the compressor to properly charge the ac. Modern equipment will charge the system from both the high and low sides without any need to turn on the compressor.
Second, there saying that the pressure is getting too high because your cooling fans are not coming on. Both fans must work together to remove the heat from the condensor or the high side pressure will spike immediately after the compressor comes on. Too much high side pressure is a sign of either severe overcharging or too much heat in the system. Most likely the latter.
Third completely remove the lines and all fittings, check all the orings and lube them heavily with pag oil before putting everything back together. Have the system vaccuum checked for leaks first, then recharged and checked for leaks again. If the people who are charging the car are dumping in dye to find the leak there most likely not pro's and you need a new shop. Dye is used as a last resort and only in very small amounts to find super slow seeping leaks. Modern freon sniffing equipment will detect a pinhole leak from across the room, dye is crap and only makes a mess.
Fourth, our compressors are not weak at idle, a properly functioning system will freeze your balls off. If your ac sucks there something wrong with it. Something as small as an improper charge of a mere 2 or 3 ounces will make the ac terrible on a hundred degree day.
Fifth, Doolots lines are the shit my car made 41 degrees out of the vents on a 96 degree day.
And Lastly, Any air or contamination in the charging equipment being used will also cause problems with your ac. You would be amazed how many cars I check every day that have been contaminated with air, stop leaks, too much oil, not enough oil, wrong oil weight, etc . Make sure the place working on your car has nice, new, clean equipment, and someone older than 18 who knows what there doing to use it. A quality mechanic should be able to just about completely diagnose an ac system buy a quick reading of his guages. Unfortunately there aren't too many quality mechanics. Sorry for the long post, hope you get it sorted out. If you have any particular questions feel free to pm me.
Hope this helps, good luck with your ac.
First, of all there is absolutely no need to turn on the compressor to properly charge the ac. Modern equipment will charge the system from both the high and low sides without any need to turn on the compressor.
Second, there saying that the pressure is getting too high because your cooling fans are not coming on. Both fans must work together to remove the heat from the condensor or the high side pressure will spike immediately after the compressor comes on. Too much high side pressure is a sign of either severe overcharging or too much heat in the system. Most likely the latter.
Third completely remove the lines and all fittings, check all the orings and lube them heavily with pag oil before putting everything back together. Have the system vaccuum checked for leaks first, then recharged and checked for leaks again. If the people who are charging the car are dumping in dye to find the leak there most likely not pro's and you need a new shop. Dye is used as a last resort and only in very small amounts to find super slow seeping leaks. Modern freon sniffing equipment will detect a pinhole leak from across the room, dye is crap and only makes a mess.
Fourth, our compressors are not weak at idle, a properly functioning system will freeze your balls off. If your ac sucks there something wrong with it. Something as small as an improper charge of a mere 2 or 3 ounces will make the ac terrible on a hundred degree day.
Fifth, Doolots lines are the shit my car made 41 degrees out of the vents on a 96 degree day.
And Lastly, Any air or contamination in the charging equipment being used will also cause problems with your ac. You would be amazed how many cars I check every day that have been contaminated with air, stop leaks, too much oil, not enough oil, wrong oil weight, etc . Make sure the place working on your car has nice, new, clean equipment, and someone older than 18 who knows what there doing to use it. A quality mechanic should be able to just about completely diagnose an ac system buy a quick reading of his guages. Unfortunately there aren't too many quality mechanics. Sorry for the long post, hope you get it sorted out. If you have any particular questions feel free to pm me.
Hope this helps, good luck with your ac.
Amen, they should have checked for leaks when it was vacuumed. It's hard to find someone with equipment who knows how to use it, not just someone pumping out 100.00 charges all day long but cannot trouble shoot.
I would check o rings as I have seen them fall off fittings when people go to put them on.
I would check o rings as I have seen them fall off fittings when people go to put them on.




