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Charper's Boosted F24c build diary

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Old 09-19-2018, 05:55 AM
  #21  

 
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Very impressive. Pulling the head later down the line to replace the valves sounds like a headache. The panties are already off so you should take advantage of that while you can.
Old 09-19-2018, 08:03 AM
  #22  

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Originally Posted by soulicious
Very impressive. Pulling the head later down the line to replace the valves sounds like a headache. The panties are already off so you should take advantage of that while you can.
its a money and time thing right now. ive got 3 weeks off in a couple months so i can pull it off. motor doesnt need to come out for that so its not that big of a deal. inspecting the head after break-in when guides or seats are installed is really important. any abnormal wear or issues can be addressed before shooting for high hp.
Old 09-29-2018, 12:38 PM
  #23  

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Car is currently moving under its own power now. Still need to do some small things like relocating some sensors n what not off the stock oil pressure port. I'm going to break-in the motor with my current setup before I get the gen II 3582r.

I took off my external oil cooler and im going to *try* to run the car with the stock cooler. I really just want to minimize points of failure, plus the amount of lines I was running with that oil cooler + the thermostat was a little insane.

The carbonetic clutch is a beast to say the least. I was running a sprung CM FX500 before this. I didn't think that clutch was too bad. I would not want to daily this car now, lol. It grabs real hard, real fast and its not a light pedal. It is a light clutch though, it def. revs a bit quicker.

In preparation for the watercooled turbo I had an fittings welded on the water pump, the engine port, and two on the stock oil cooler. Once the new turbo comes in ill just plumb it into the system between the water pump and oil cooler.




I was originally going to use the Ktuned oil distribution piece, but there just isnt enough room for what I need to run. so im gonna end up using a bps to npt plug off the stock oil port and run a line to a distribution block.








Got the manifold wrapped. 50ft BARELY got er done. I should have done this a long time ago. It reduced my under hood temps significantly on my last setup.






And the last bit was just welding in a baffle to the pan. Still need to drill and tap it for temp sensor. Probably won't install this until the break-in of the motor is done though


Old 09-29-2018, 01:58 PM
  #24  

 
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Nice true design of a baffle plate & gates ,do it yourself or buy it ?
Old 09-29-2018, 02:38 PM
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I simply fed oil from the vtec pressure sensor. Been running it for a month hundreds of miles no issues.(i have ball bearing turbo though dont know about using that feed location for journal bearing)
Old 09-29-2018, 04:00 PM
  #26  

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The baffle is a moroso baffle. No sense in fabricating one as this was only $100.

I would of loved to use the vtech solenoid as an oil source but my manifold will not allow for that
Old 10-02-2018, 08:05 AM
  #27  

 
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Originally Posted by Charper732
...
I would of loved to use the vtech solenoid as an oil source but my manifold will not allow for that
Is this a new phone!?!?!?




...sorry, the impulse was too real! LOL
Old 01-03-2019, 07:03 PM
  #28  

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Well I picked up a 4Piston CNC cylinder head with +1mm valves on a whim...not the smartest purchase Ive ever made, it didn't sell so it's going on the car. Pulled the motor, put in the BC2 cams on skunk2 adjustable cam gears. I really need to get an aftermarket IM, but they are expensive as hell. My next best option is to cut this one open and port it out, just didnt have time this go around. I port matched the IM to the head for now. I have yet to buy a new 3582r. I've been sitting on a larger exhaust housing for my BW 257sxe for awhile. Im going to do a little testing with it. It currently has a divided .87? ar housing on it now. I'm going to throw a 1.02 housing on it so it doesn't choke to top end so bad. That .87 housing is super restrictive up top but it makes boost stupid fast down low.





I put the IM gasket against the IM and sprayed it with some paint to get an outline, then just went to town a bit with my dremel...Pretty simple really.









Old 01-03-2019, 07:37 PM
  #29  

 
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Read the thread for first time....impressive
Old 02-07-2019, 10:29 PM
  #30  

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Haven't had awhole lot of time to mess with the car, but I managed to finally get around to picking up a ford 8.8 diff. I had an issue with a knocking sound coming from the head and took quite a bit of time trying to diagnose it as it sounded like rod knock, but I knew it wasn't as the only thing that changed was the head. Turned out the ballade TCT failed, no noise at idle but literally sounded like rod knock..nothing like a chain. Anyway, I put back in a modified OEM TCT and issue was resolved.

I also acquired a cut, bored, and welded stock IM along with a hypertune TB so i'll be switching that out and selling my current IM/ballade TB. After everything is ironed out it'll be time for the dyno. Got some katzskinz upholstery to redo the seats as well!


This IM is off of a 06+ so i'll have to fab up a plate to fit the IACV off my 05 so I can have consistent idle without using the throttle plate.







Cheapest s2k diff I ever bought. LOL




Covers speak for themselves. Outer is leather, inner is suede


Car is finally in my driveway and not sitting in the shop!
#SuperSleeper




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