Here is a recent clutch install I did for a member on here. I could've taken more pictures but it was a pain to take pics with my SLR with dirty hands. If you're in socal I will do it for you at a low cost....

To begin you need the following tools:

Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm
Wrenches
8mm allen wrench
At least two jack stands
At least 24 in of wobble extensions

Begin by removing the stock air box (3, 10mm bolts)









Remove the serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter-clockwise (14mm)



Remove the top alternator bolt (14mm)



Rotate alternator over clockwise



Insert the extensions and remove top starter bolt (14mm)





Remove the black heat shield (4, 10mm bolts)





Remove exhaust manifold heat shield (4, 12mm bolts)



Remove exhaust manifold nuts (7, 12mm nuts)

Go under the car and remove the manifold support (2, 14mm bolts)
Using two wrenches remove cat/header bolts (2, 12mm)
Under the subframe, remove motor mount nuts (4, 17mm)
Lift the passenger side of the motor about 2in and remove header from below.

On the driver side under the car, remove the A/C condenser bolts (4, 14mm)
Mark the position of the steering shaft and remove the bottom bolt (10mm)
Loosen the top bolt (10mm) and slide the joint towards the firewall

-Inside the car: remove the shift knob holding locking nut with 14mm wrench
-Remove the center console (it just snaps out, unplug two harnesses before removing)



-Using a flat head screwdriver, there are 4 arrows on the annular plastic piece, insert screwdriver and push towards the outside of the ring



Remove the shifter (3, 10mm bolts)



Back under the car:
Remove driveshaft bolts (8, 8mm allen wrench)
Remove the lower brace bar (3, 14mm per side)
Lower subframe (3 bolts per side, remove the middle one (19mm), the closest ones to the firewall are 17mm (back out 3 inches), the ones farthest away are 19mm (back out 3 inches)



Remove slave cylinder on transmission housing (2, 12mm)



With a jack support transmission housing and unbolt tranny mount (3, 14mm)



Remove transmission bolts (2, 14mm & 6, 17mm)
Disengage fork from throwout bearing



Lower jack and pull the transmission out until the main shaft is completely out



Remove pressure plate (12, 10mm 12 point nuts)



Random Pictures:

Worn out clutch:



Resurfaced flywheel



Brand new disk

 

great write up...

 

thanks!

 

Why does the header have to come off?

 

EXCELLENT write up! Thanks for taking the time to post this up.

 

 

it doesnt, really. the exhaust will move with the subframe as you lower it.

the only reason to take off the header is so you can have easier access to the tranny bolts on that side, but i just use an open end and i can still get them off.

i have debated leaving the top 2 tranny bolts and the one starter bolt out to save massive amounts of time for deinstall, but i'm not sure if the tranny will clear the channel itself without the subframe removed. can anybody chime in?

 

I dont think you would clear the tunnel when trying to get the input shaft in.

 

Nice write up, put this in faq. Im going to be doing this soon. looks like fun.

 

if it looks like fun you definitely didn't read this right! lol