comp turbo oil-less turbos
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24,119
Likes: 4
From: Seattle / Kalifornia
My turbo is water and oil cooled.... I've never had a problem with either and if setup correctly never should.
Not running an oil line sounds like shortened lifespan to me... have to see a lot more info to make that call for sure.
Not running an oil line sounds like shortened lifespan to me... have to see a lot more info to make that call for sure.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24,119
Likes: 4
From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Maybe I'm just a special case but the only problems I have had with going turbo have been related to oil... but also with removing oil from a turbo I would think that the turbo will spool faster without having the resistance of oil on the bearings. Thats just a thought though could be completely the opposite for all I know.
Well you realize that most turbos HAVE to have oil to spin right? Most are journal bearings so they're actually floating in the oil under pressure. In the case of mine it's ball bearing which is a slight improvement but the lubrication grease they use on these comp setups could be even worse if it's thick.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24,119
Likes: 4
From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Originally Posted by japhethwar' timestamp='1333917662' post='21587918
Its not so much the lines its the amount of problems associated with the oil. I have read hundreds of threads about blown seals, people trying to get the right fittings, problems with heat cooking the lines, where to put the return, etc. It is an issue. I have fixed lots and lots of leaking oil lines on factory turbo cars as well. I pulled my drain off the other day and the inside of my braided hose was as cooked and as hard as a rock from the heat of the manifold and turbine housing. All im saying is it would be awesome to not need to mess with the oil at all. No drilling, no tapping, no welding, no holes in the block, no expensive an lines, no blown seals. Am i missing the downside here? I spent 500 on my oil feed and return all together, plus a good day getting everything right. By contrast my coolant lines cost 50$ and took 30 minutes. Ill take the coolant over the oil any day.
Well played, I can agree that it would be easier without touching the oil.
Willing to bet 90% of the blown seals threads you read featured the word Precision
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24,119
Likes: 4
From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Its not so much the lines its the amount of problems associated with the oil. I have read hundreds of threads about blown seals, people trying to get the right fittings, problems with heat cooking the lines, where to put the return, etc. It is an issue. I have fixed lots and lots of leaking oil lines on factory turbo cars as well. I pulled my drain off the other day and the inside of my braided hose was as cooked and as hard as a rock from the heat of the manifold and turbine housing. All im saying is it would be awesome to not need to mess with the oil at all. No drilling, no tapping, no welding, no holes in the block, no expensive an lines, no blown seals. Am i missing the downside here? I spent 500 on my oil feed and return all together, plus a good day getting everything right. By contrast my coolant lines cost 50$ and took 30 minutes. Ill take the coolant over the oil any day.
You're speaking about coked lines right not cooked? Synthetic oil will make that a moot point. I suggest not running conventional oil any more on your turbo setups. $500 on an oil feed and return?!?!?!?!?!?! HOW?! My oil setup was about $80 bucks I think that included the restriction plate as well.....
My lines run by my hot manifold but I've never even had the slightest bit of a problem. I suppose an easy fix would be just shield the lines if you're having that big of a problem. That can be done for another $30 bucks or so probably at summitracing.com
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,555
Likes: 2
From: greenville sc
The 500 was for a new oil pan, drill bit and tap for the fittings, tube of hondabond, an fittings, an line, oil fittings and adapter for the oil feed, restrictor, an drain flange for the turbo, and the shop supplies I used for the install. As for the heat issues, I have run heat shielding over the lines since day one, I pulled them off to replace the hose as I wanted to make it a bit longer. It was not leaking but it was clear that the heat was working on it pretty badly. The inner part of the line was very hard and brittle. I added another layer off heat sheilding this time so hopefully it will keep it cooler. As for my oil I run 15w40 rotella no coking problems here.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 24,119
Likes: 4
From: Seattle / Kalifornia
Oh, new pan eats up a bit of that I suppose. You couldn't use your stock pan as I did?
I run no shields and have no problems as of now, Rotella is good stuff. I thought you said you had coking inside your lines, must have misunderstood you in your prior post then.
I run no shields and have no problems as of now, Rotella is good stuff. I thought you said you had coking inside your lines, must have misunderstood you in your prior post then.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ek_Jak
S2000 Forced Induction
4
Jun 6, 2017 08:14 PM
S2BOOSTED
S2000 Forced Induction
9
Sep 8, 2010 02:33 PM