So after a few days of being turbo'd I finally decided to do a compression test. The car was at normal operating temp during the process and this is what I got.

Cyl 1 - 205
Cyl 2 - 210
Cyl 3 - 235
Cyl 4 - 235

I am not sure if these were the numbers prior to turboing the car so I cant say if running the turbo cause something internally. Ill give a little background over the past few days. Only 30 minutes after running the turbo, the car would smoke pretty good at idle. I found out my spark plug tube seals were done so I replaced them. I also found my return line to be crap so I re did that the way Inline Pro said to do so. The smoke has subsided mostly but intermittently ill get smoke out of the exhaust at idle and slow 1st gear cruising (vacuum). And this is why i decided to do a compression test. Under boost and normal cruising the car doesnt smoke one bit. The smoke appears to be white but I cant tell if it has a blue tint or not. Maybe I should use an oil restrictor??

As far as what I have tuned, I am only running 8 psi and running about 19-20 degrees of timing. I will be doing a leakdown test tomorrow to hopefully find out whats really going on. The car has 78K miles. Based off my past experience, there shouldnt be more than a difference of 10psi throughout all the cylinders. FML.

 

Im really starting to think the oil is coming from the turbo. The smoke is more of a white color. It started doing this only 30 minutes after the install, and its only at idle. I am gonna try the restrictor on my -3an line and see what happens. Precision said not to run it but again, Ive seen too many people solve their issue with installing the restrictor.

Still doesnt solve the doo doo compression results.

 

white smoke = radiator fluid which = headgasket
black smoke = fuel rich condition
blue smoke = piston rings or something more serious aka your f'd if its not the turbo

 

Is that 18-19 deg at the top, meaning at 8-9000 rpm? Thats a little high for pump gas. Id set it to around 16 deg at the top for pump. Also, your timing should slowly come on at full boost hit and work its way up to 16 deg at around 8000 rpm and hold there. What I mean is, at full boost, whatever rpm that is on you setup, timing should be at about 4-5 deg for pump gas and as rpm goes up it should slowly climb to a peak of about 16 deg at 8000 rpm and hold there to redline. This is to keep the hit soft as boost comes in full and keep detonation down. If you have the timing set at 18-19 deg all the way from full boost hit to redline, thats real bad and you have probably popped the HG from detonation or done some other damage.

 

16 degrees? Oh man. Well my timing looks something like this.

5000-16
5500-16
6000-17
6500-18
7000-18.5
7500-19
8000-19
8500-19
9000-19

Not exactly but you get the point. With 19 degrees this is pulling 1.5 deg which to me seems like alot?? I understand its high compression but damn lol.

Well I would rather a headgasket go out than a ringland or cracked sleeve. If something internally went wrong I would definitely see it more than what Im seeing right now. She still pulls strong, no smoke under boost. It only smokes randomly at idle.

 

Not to get too far off topic here, but what is the breakdown of the Timing map N/A F/20/F22? I am Running an F22 with Ap1 ECU.

 

i run 18 degrees peak at 8500 rpm on 10#. i dont think his timing numbers are crazy. i run 20 degrees at 8500 on meth 50/50 injection.

 

Those compression numbers are fine. A 78k motor is not going to be 250 across like people tout their motors to be.

The smoke is more than likely something turbo related. Post pics of your oil return.

 

1slowsi---if you really would like to find the problem, you need to go one more mile diagnosis.
I know this is hard but the only way. Take the downpipe and look for any oil leaking inside the turbine.
If the turbine is dry, then somewhere in the engine.
I'm willing to bet, it's oil leaking at the piston ring of the turbo.

 

what kind of set up is this?