comptech kit
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Joined: Jul 2012
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Originally Posted by profit_child' timestamp='1349801692' post='22069857
thanks for the quick responses... guys i dont really plan on upgrading the injectors just yet if i decide to later on down the road i will... i was just wondering feedback on the stock 5.5 pulley kit with aftercooler.... i just seem kind of worried about it running on stock ecu? is the ecu module really reliable? no tunning issues? and how would you guys rate the compatibility of running a vafc2 with the comptech module? for fine tuning a full exhaust on stock kit (car will be weekend spirited car)
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Vienna, VA
If it is the ESM module, all it does is clamp the voltage from the map sensor so that the Honda ECU does not know it's boosted. For lack of a better word, it fools it. Later version kits have a full piggyback module that does that, adjusts VTEC, and fuel trim (pretty much a VAFC, but not adjustable).
Yes, if you stay with stock boost, the Walbro pump and the fuel pressure regulator will give plenty of fuel pressure and you'll be fine. On mine, I actually have too much as I have to back the pressure way off and I'm still richer than I'd like to be. If you go with any more boost, it would not be sufficient; you would need a standalone ECU (AEM, Hondata, etc) that lowers timing, handles bigger injectors, etc. A full replacement ECU probably wont' get you much peak HP, but it should help in other areas. The rising rate/stock injector thing is not optimal by any stretch. It's safe, but not optimal.
If your clutch is in good shape, it'll handle 300whp for a while if you're good to it. I have over 300whp on a Mustang dyno (reads lower than a dynojet) and my stock 85K clutch is really holding up just fine. Still, you really should get a clutch...I should have...doing a clutch with a blower is more work.
Highly recommend NGK 2668 plugs to go with it.
Yes, if you stay with stock boost, the Walbro pump and the fuel pressure regulator will give plenty of fuel pressure and you'll be fine. On mine, I actually have too much as I have to back the pressure way off and I'm still richer than I'd like to be. If you go with any more boost, it would not be sufficient; you would need a standalone ECU (AEM, Hondata, etc) that lowers timing, handles bigger injectors, etc. A full replacement ECU probably wont' get you much peak HP, but it should help in other areas. The rising rate/stock injector thing is not optimal by any stretch. It's safe, but not optimal.
If your clutch is in good shape, it'll handle 300whp for a while if you're good to it. I have over 300whp on a Mustang dyno (reads lower than a dynojet) and my stock 85K clutch is really holding up just fine. Still, you really should get a clutch...I should have...doing a clutch with a blower is more work.
Highly recommend NGK 2668 plugs to go with it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 1
If it is the ESM module, all it does is clamp the voltage from the map sensor so that the Honda ECU does not know it's boosted. For lack of a better word, it fools it. Later version kits have a full piggyback module that does that, adjusts VTEC, and fuel trim (pretty much a VAFC, but not adjustable).
Yes, if you stay with stock boost, the Walbro pump and the fuel pressure regulator will give plenty of fuel pressure and you'll be fine. On mine, I actually have too much as I have to back the pressure way off and I'm still richer than I'd like to be. If you go with any more boost, it would not be sufficient; you would need a standalone ECU (AEM, Hondata, etc) that lowers timing, handles bigger injectors, etc. A full replacement ECU probably wont' get you much peak HP, but it should help in other areas. The rising rate/stock injector thing is not optimal by any stretch. It's safe, but not optimal.
If your clutch is in good shape, it'll handle 300whp for a while if you're good to it. I have over 300whp on a Mustang dyno (reads lower than a dynojet) and my stock 85K clutch is really holding up just fine. Still, you really should get a clutch...I should have...doing a clutch with a blower is more work.
Highly recommend NGK 2668 plugs to go with it.
Yes, if you stay with stock boost, the Walbro pump and the fuel pressure regulator will give plenty of fuel pressure and you'll be fine. On mine, I actually have too much as I have to back the pressure way off and I'm still richer than I'd like to be. If you go with any more boost, it would not be sufficient; you would need a standalone ECU (AEM, Hondata, etc) that lowers timing, handles bigger injectors, etc. A full replacement ECU probably wont' get you much peak HP, but it should help in other areas. The rising rate/stock injector thing is not optimal by any stretch. It's safe, but not optimal.
If your clutch is in good shape, it'll handle 300whp for a while if you're good to it. I have over 300whp on a Mustang dyno (reads lower than a dynojet) and my stock 85K clutch is really holding up just fine. Still, you really should get a clutch...I should have...doing a clutch with a blower is more work.
Highly recommend NGK 2668 plugs to go with it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
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i also read steven that it may be better for me to cut the 4 wires into the vafc2 harness instead of my factory harness? that way if i remove the kit its like nothing happened.. and i can always reconect the harness and remove the esm from the jumper?
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Vienna, VA
I have the SOS kit, but I'm familiar with the Comptech.
So, the ESM is, I believe, 4 wires...the MAP sensor is 2, so it's like a 2-in, 2-out deal.
If you can avoid cutting factory wiring, do that if at all possible. If the VAFC is a full harness with all pins, I'd definitely do that instead of cutting factory wiring...I would never ever do that.
Also, definitely get your wideband put in when you put in your kit. Tuning the FPR and VAFC will be futile without that. You could attach an O2 sensor to the tailpipe, but that isn't nearly as accurate.
So, the ESM is, I believe, 4 wires...the MAP sensor is 2, so it's like a 2-in, 2-out deal.
If you can avoid cutting factory wiring, do that if at all possible. If the VAFC is a full harness with all pins, I'd definitely do that instead of cutting factory wiring...I would never ever do that.
Also, definitely get your wideband put in when you put in your kit. Tuning the FPR and VAFC will be futile without that. You could attach an O2 sensor to the tailpipe, but that isn't nearly as accurate.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
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sounds good the wideband will be installed way before the kit... everything seems a go! just kind of skeptical about the ECM and how i can put this in without cutting harness ect.ect. and yes il be sure to fine tune it on the dyno with the vafc2 and fpr
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The Comptech supplied ESM for the MAP has to be spliced into your factory harness, its just two wires. The VAFC PnP harness has no compatibility issues with this ESM install. I ran mine like this for several years without issue. The ESM works perfectly, however if you want to try an alternate method of doing the same thing without cutting into your harness, there are a couple different companies that offer a bolt in method that is basically just a spacer for your map, its really easy to install but there have been mixed reviews on the reliability function of these. Cost is about $60. So pick your poison. If it were me I would stick with the ESM. For about $300 there is a 3rd option, you can purchase a SOS or CT box from their current kits and install this to do the job, but you wont get to use the vafc as a result since it does the fuel and vtec as well. It is PnP though.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
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The Comptech supplied ESM for the MAP has to be spliced into your factory harness, its just two wires. The VAFC PnP harness has no compatibility issues with this ESM install. I ran mine like this for several years without issue. The ESM works perfectly, however if you want to try an alternate method of doing the same thing without cutting into your harness, there are a couple different companies that offer a bolt in method that is basically just a spacer for your map, its really easy to install but there have been mixed reviews on the reliability function of these. Cost is about $60. So pick your poison. If it were me I would stick with the ESM. For about $300 there is a 3rd option, you can purchase a SOS or CT box from their current kits and install this to do the job, but you wont get to use the vafc as a result since it does the fuel and vtec as well. It is PnP though.
1. il be running the ESM since its only 2 wires and the cheapest... i have a pnp harness for my vafc2 i was wondering if i could cut and splice the 2 wires on my pnp harness for the vafc2 and wire the esm threw the pnp harness from my vafc2 instead of my factory harness? want to keep it as clean as possible if i ever part the car... i am glad i will be able to run my vafc2 with this kit!
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Eastern NC
I have had a CTSC with the Novi 1000 on my car for about 15k...maybe more. I never did the stock kit, but I had no issues at all. I have since left the nv1000 and moving more towards the 400+ mark...still have no worries, it is my dd and has never let me down.