Comptech SC
I have been searching around the forum for the answers to a few questions. I still have a few things I am unclear on.
1. Anyone running an AP2 setup on an AP1 without any tuning or adjustments to the FPR?
2. Where can i find the install manual online? Or does someone have the PDF to email me?
3. Do the banjo bolts really need to be upgraded (I have an '01) or is this a nice to have?
Thanks for the time.
1. Anyone running an AP2 setup on an AP1 without any tuning or adjustments to the FPR?
2. Where can i find the install manual online? Or does someone have the PDF to email me?
3. Do the banjo bolts really need to be upgraded (I have an '01) or is this a nice to have?
Thanks for the time.
Yes you will need to adjust your fpr to add more fuel and get your afrs checked on a dyno or install in a wideband for safe measure, this is important no matter if its the ap1 kit or ap2. Most find the stock fpr adjustment is too lean out of the box anyway, and will be leaner the better flowing exhuast you have.
The banjo bolts are good to have sure, most of the trouble was found on uro cars where the roads would dictate long un interupted cruising like the autoban, higher rpm before vtec such as 4.5-5.5k was the problem. This rpm was found to build more heat then the primary oiling holes could keep up with, when vtec is ingaged the oiling amount is increased and cools. With the SC there is additional heat produced, but at cruising it would be minimal. If you have gears your rpms will be higher at cruising, so keep this in mind also. If you do allot of long un interupted drives/road trips then I would definetly get them.
The banjo bolts are good to have sure, most of the trouble was found on uro cars where the roads would dictate long un interupted cruising like the autoban, higher rpm before vtec such as 4.5-5.5k was the problem. This rpm was found to build more heat then the primary oiling holes could keep up with, when vtec is ingaged the oiling amount is increased and cools. With the SC there is additional heat produced, but at cruising it would be minimal. If you have gears your rpms will be higher at cruising, so keep this in mind also. If you do allot of long un interupted drives/road trips then I would definetly get them.
EDIT: this post is about the fuel rail banjo bolts. i'm a fool... but whatever.
dear god, please upgrade the bolts.
i used the ct ones, and the supplied crush washers. torqued to spec.
i had a STREAM of fuel spraying across my engine bay...
i was damn lucky not to have an engine fire. the stream was perfectly arced over the valve cover, under the hood, and onto the heat shield.
dear god, please upgrade the bolts.
i used the ct ones, and the supplied crush washers. torqued to spec.
i had a STREAM of fuel spraying across my engine bay...
i was damn lucky not to have an engine fire. the stream was perfectly arced over the valve cover, under the hood, and onto the heat shield.
these are the banjo bolts i was talking about:
http://www.hardtopguy.com/store/product.ph...6&cat=53&page=1
http://www.hardtopguy.com/store/product.ph...6&cat=53&page=1
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Kenny_Stang
S2000 Forced Induction
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Jun 15, 2014 06:50 PM







Glad your still here with all your hair intact.
