That's buddy!

 

i dont think you have to drill out the head for those to fit, i did on mine but looking at it after I'm pretty sure I didnt have to do it.

 

Yea, that's just what the instructions say, it also says to install the head then the studs, I was under the impression I could install the studs into my block now and get those torqued down and set then just slide y head over the studs and then torque the bolts down?

 

ugh, that sounds like a lot of trouble; i'm glad i just went with the "crappy" ARP studs

 

You only have to drill the mount holes with a 1/2 inch bit 1/2 an inch down, not all too involved, I just don't unsersrand why lol

 

Not to jack the thread. But i wanted to tuck the heater hose also. I have no a/c and only use the heat on occasion. Couldn't i just eliminate the heater valve completely and run lines to the heater core and back? So basically coolant would just keep flowing thru the core and when i wanted heat i can just turn the fans on.

 

It would still come through your vents as heat that way, like if you leave your heat off but the selector on hot, you can still feel a bit of heat passing through your vents, this would be constant without the valve

 

did u see if they fit with out drilling?

 

I had my heater valve removed for a while (thanks to my FR manifold melting it ). So I had it hooked up exactly like you are talking about.

As Corey said, heat will still flow out the vents. I found that it wasn't that bad with the top down, but when I had to drive with the top up it was very uncomfortable (i.e. HOT).

Honestly I would bypass the heater core all together rather than just eliminating the heater valve. Yes you would lose the ability to heat the cabin, but you could remove the upper and lower coolant bypass hoses/pipes and clean up the bay a bit.

Scott-

 

No passman, Mike Laskey has my head, I just emailed him today to see if he could just drill them