I run the SOS model, which was an improved version of the Comptech, which CT appears to have integrated ideas from into their kit. Very similar, though yours is different, but the mounting solution on that side of the engine is the same with slight differences.

You have an extra cable coming out of the valve cover beside the OEM cable for the Solenoid. Is that by chance an oil temp/pressure sensor?

Also, the concern over the torque spec is that those bolts are long and skinny, though I think these are grade 10 and am pretty sure it's a 10mm socket. 9 lb-ft, so not very tight. Breaking one would be a bad day!

 

Interesting, I was not aware of that. Are you running stock boost? I'm running the standard CT-E pulley, boosting at 5-6 psi.
The extra cable would be my oil pressure gauge.

 

Yea, stock 4.8" pulley, with wideband O2 sensor. 5 years and it's a minimal burden.

 

Off Topic question:

I wanted to know if you can assist me with an issue ive been having. When I got my car tuned at Autowave, I got the car back and my AEM AFR was reading between 9-10 at WOT. At idle it's normal 14.2-14.7. When I adjusted the FPR to lean it out I suddenly got a lean CEL code and my car started to bog and shut off every time I slowed down.
I took the car back to Autowave and they had Steve from CT-Engineering re-map a sensor to fix the lean issue. Unfortunately, the car still runs lean at WOT 10-11. I have not made an effort to adjust the FPR because it my through a CEL code and cause my car to shut off. Any advice?
Thank you for your time.

 

I sometimes get a 'bank 1 lean' CEL at idle when very cold, or when the temperature is rapidly shifting (think cold winter to warm day). I think it could be my O2 sensor, but I haven't replaced it, and haven't seen a CEL for 9 months now.

I aim for a max of 12:1 at WOT, though it's usually mid-11s. 9-10 is way too rich and will probably wreck your cat over a few years. IMO, anything over 12.5:1 is lean for being under boost (some will disagree and say a little more is fine). 10-11 isn't bad, but could be more optimal as you approach 12. I think you could give the FPR a half-turn counter-clockwise and see where you end up. The piggy-back solution isn't optimal, but the only real solution to that is to get a standalone which won't be emissions compliant, so I stick with it.

 

Sounds good, I'll make the FPR adjustment soon after i install the new Solenoid which arrives on Monday. I wish that CA would allow at least one CRAB legal EMS for us to use. I'll keep you posted on the install and the adjustment. Thanks,

 

From what I hear the Hondata, while not CARB approved, will act like a Honda ECU...because it is.

Don't take this post as a guarantee, but the ECU is well hidden.

 

Flashpro is invisible to CA smog

 

Yes, but OP has a MY2000. A Hondata is a ~$2500 investment when you factor the other parts in and the install (installing it when you have a SC is more time).

If you're happy with 300whp, it buys you a little more optimization and emissions compliance (probably).

 

Very disappointed in myself. While I was torqueing one of the 3 10mm bolts (left side bolt), I stupidly over torqued it and broke the bolt. I pulled the broken bolt out and saw that most of the threaded part of the bolt was gone, which makes it more difficult because I cant use a tool to pull the rest of the bolt out. I just hope that I did not damage the supercharger bracket or head.