Cusco lsd 1.5 80% trys to kill me with 420whp
#1
Thread Starter
Cusco lsd 1.5 80% trys to kill me with 420whp
Ok sideways not a problem had the car over 7 years.
Picked up the car a couple weeks ago after the tune punched it in second to feel the new power (255/18/35 r888s semy slicks)
Car started to drift following the camber not a problem i like that.
Suddenly the rear tyre on my side gripped and spat the front off the car into the side off the road with such a force that i have hurt my neck
Options diff off and set the lsd to 60%????
Or put the stock one back in and sell the cusco???
Advice needed please i got away with it this time but it made my ass twich cheers Lee.
Picked up the car a couple weeks ago after the tune punched it in second to feel the new power (255/18/35 r888s semy slicks)
Car started to drift following the camber not a problem i like that.
Suddenly the rear tyre on my side gripped and spat the front off the car into the side off the road with such a force that i have hurt my neck
Options diff off and set the lsd to 60%????
Or put the stock one back in and sell the cusco???
Advice needed please i got away with it this time but it made my ass twich cheers Lee.
#2
The problem is not the differential. It's something else. Whether it's too much rear camber or too little toe. Or (more likely) the driving style. If you've deliberately exceeded grip by "punching" it, then you're fighting the diff (it's trying to give you back traction). Learn to drive before blaming the equipment. You absolutely want a clutch type diff with this kind of power.
#3
Thread Starter
The problem is not the differential. It's something else. Whether it's too much rear camber or too little toe. Or (more likely) the driving style. If you've deliberately exceeded grip by "punching" it, then you're fighting the diff (it's trying to give you back traction). Learn to drive before blaming the equipment. You absolutely want a clutch type diff with this kind of power.
#4
The advice is to have someone who has motorsport experience try out your car before you make changes. The symptoms you're chasing sound suspiciously like driver error and alignment / suspension setup more than the lock-up on the diff.
14 years of street driving means nothing. If we're equating time to skill then my mom is a better driver than you are.
I'm being facetious, but you get the point.
BTW. I love my clutch LSD.
14 years of street driving means nothing. If we're equating time to skill then my mom is a better driver than you are.
I'm being facetious, but you get the point.
BTW. I love my clutch LSD.
#5
And I've driven with the clutch diff on big track, autocross and street with 330whp, 450whp and 475whp on Hoosiers (slicks), Star Specs and Potenzas. Again, the clutch diff is worlds of improvement over a factory Torsen.
Again, strongly betting that the real problem lies elsewhere and not in the diff %.
Again, strongly betting that the real problem lies elsewhere and not in the diff %.
#6
Thread Starter
So what do you have your lsd set at 1.5 60%??? The shop took the car out they maintain and build drift cars said it was unpredictable locking at 80% and told me to change it to 60%.But i just whant to know if i would be better with the stock tq one ???.
#7
If they really build drift cars, they would be using a 2-way (identical on and off power). Not a 1.5 way.
Regardless of which would be "better" (80 vs 60), the symptoms you were describing in the OP are likely induced by driver and suspension / alignment rather than the % diff.
Think of it this way: Can people drive an open diff car safely? Yes. Can people drive a welded diff safely? Yes, we do it all the time ice and rally racing. No matter the % in between your clutch diff is set at, it wouldn't cause lack of control without a ham-fist / lead foot in the rear or really wonky alignment settings.
Also, how many miles on your R888s (were they scrubbed in?) and were they up to temp?
Regardless of which would be "better" (80 vs 60), the symptoms you were describing in the OP are likely induced by driver and suspension / alignment rather than the % diff.
Think of it this way: Can people drive an open diff car safely? Yes. Can people drive a welded diff safely? Yes, we do it all the time ice and rally racing. No matter the % in between your clutch diff is set at, it wouldn't cause lack of control without a ham-fist / lead foot in the rear or really wonky alignment settings.
Also, how many miles on your R888s (were they scrubbed in?) and were they up to temp?
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#8
If I were a betting man, I'd bet you lifted (even if you didn't realize you did). With a 1.5 way, if there's steering input your arcs are going to be very different on vs. off power (the definition of a 1.5 way diff).
#9
Thread Starter
The diff was allready on the car had it for a couple years with the greddy kit never had a problem at that power.
The r888s have 50% left on them and yes would have been cold it was -1 out but dry.
I had to let off to stop myself hitting the curb with the front off the car
#10
Originally Posted by CKit' timestamp='1330004896' post='21442351
If they really build drift cars, they would be using a 2-way (identical on and off power). Not a 1.5 way.
Also, how many miles on your R888s (were they scrubbed in?) and were they up to temp?
Also, how many miles on your R888s (were they scrubbed in?) and were they up to temp?
The diff was allready on the car had it for a couple years with the greddy kit never had a problem at that power.
The r888s have 50% left on them and yes would have been cold it was -1 out but dry.
I had to let off to stop myself hitting the curb with the front off the car
maybe the tires were cold, broke loose, and the one with traction just hooked the car. idk....ckit has serious experience with these things, id trust him. wait till its warmer out then drive the car and see what happens. preferably a road that is wide with no curbs to smash into.