well, i switched out the massive t67 for a brand new T04S with a .70a/r turbine housing.all is well. anyway,

the dipstick keeps popping up and letting oil seep onto my valve cover ledge(it did this with the t67 on the dyno as well). i have removed the pcv and installed a barb fitting with a hose venting to atmosphere and the front hose is venting to atmosphere as well. so i searched....
unfortunately there was never an answer why.

so here i am with you guys now: does it happen to you? if so, have you tried anything to fix it? what works what didnt? and why is this happening if both vc holes are venting all they need to?

thanks my friends.

 

Excessive crankcase pressure.

I am using 2, -8an lines to a vented catch can.

Works for anything on low boost, high boost still pops it, above 15psi for me.

You can turn your dip stick around, BUT I don't do this, if the pressure needs out, let it out.

I just picked up 2, -12 bungs I am going to weld onto the cover.

 

wow, still too much with the 2 -8s? thats crazy. alright, looks like ive got another welding job on my hands this month.

 

try the krankvents, they actually create a vacuum in the crank case. worked for me.

side note, when i was at a dynoday, i watched one guys car shoot the dipstick out of the valve cover into the bottom of the hood and it land on the floor. that was hilarious.

 

If you don't want to weld there is plenty of room at the front of the valve cover to place a bulkhead fitting. For those like me that have a hard time welding steel let alone aluminum this is a nice alternative.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Departm.../?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

 

for a temp fix turn the dipstick the opposite way, usually keeps it in place when the hood is closed

 

That scares me. With as much vibration as the motor sees, what prevents that nut from slowly backing off and grenading the timing chain assembly

 

awesome! got some key players posting up their input in here. i appreciate that!

im a welder/fabricator so ill just weld it. just sucks that i gotta destroy the wrinkle finish on the vc in certain spots. :-/

i think ill get some 3/4" O.D. aluminum pipe and weld them up on the same side as the oem lines. then hose clamp on some 3/4"I.D. Goodyear black hose and be all good.

 

Yeah, I know, but with the locktight used for engine internals and using a punch to set the threads when it is tight you should be able to make sure it stays.

 

Yep, there is no reason to use AN fittings other than looks, barbs are just fine.