DIY: Installing new pulley
#1
DIY: Installing new pulley
Was curious if anyone has a write up on how to install a new pulley on the C/T S/C?
More importantly, I was curious as to how difficult it is to remove the belt and put the new pulley on. (Time to do it, tools needed, etc)
Appreciate all the help as usual.
More importantly, I was curious as to how difficult it is to remove the belt and put the new pulley on. (Time to do it, tools needed, etc)
Appreciate all the help as usual.
#2
Former Sponsor
This can be done with standard hand toolswithin 30 minutes with experience or an hour with out. An impact gun for the pulley bolt helps.
1. Remove supercharger intake elbow and associated hoses.
2. Disconnect oil drain hose at the supercharger and support so that the supercharger does not drain out.
3. Remove supercharger belt.
4. Lift intercooler out of the way (coolant lines should not need to be disconnected).
5. Remove four bolts (all 14mm drive) that secure main bracket.
6. Slide supercharger / main bracket assembly out of car.
7. Remove pulley from supercharger & replace with new pulley.
8. Reinstall supercharger in reverse.
Happy wrenching,
-- Chris
1. Remove supercharger intake elbow and associated hoses.
2. Disconnect oil drain hose at the supercharger and support so that the supercharger does not drain out.
3. Remove supercharger belt.
4. Lift intercooler out of the way (coolant lines should not need to be disconnected).
5. Remove four bolts (all 14mm drive) that secure main bracket.
6. Slide supercharger / main bracket assembly out of car.
7. Remove pulley from supercharger & replace with new pulley.
8. Reinstall supercharger in reverse.
Happy wrenching,
-- Chris
#3
I did mine without removing the supercharger. It's not very difficult, getting the pulley loose is the biggest problem. I took some pictures of the install, I'll put them up when I get home from work.
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#8
Former Sponsor
Originally Posted by bimmerpowa,Sep 25 2007, 02:53 PM
Awesome, appreciate the help.
Chris - You have any 7 lb pulleys in stock?
Chris - You have any 7 lb pulleys in stock?
Cheers,
-- Chris
#9
cant take off the Stock Pulley on the AP1 CTSC without loosening the SC.
the pulley is too wide -big and the pulley hits the Head of the motor,the bolt there and wont come off if you don't loose the SC of the bracket to give the small space that's needed to take the pulley off.
once you get a smaller pulley its not necessary to take the SC loose since the pulley is smaller and wont hit the Head Bolt that's opposite the Pulley and there is no problem changing them,
The oem SC pulley is the only problem maker. On AP1 i am sure it cant be done without loosening the bracket bolts.
I took the SC Airfilter housing to get better access to the Brackets Bolts on the SC so i recommend to take the housing of the filter off also.
Releasing the pulley is no biggie just Hold the opposite bolt on the SC wheel side when you loose the pulley.
I don't know about AP2 but since the AP2 has a smaller pulley i assume it can be done without the SC bracket loosening.
Biggest problem for me was loosening the Pulley itself from the shaft..It seemed Stuck there and i had some time lost on loosening it from it.The bolt comes off easily.
good luck.
the pulley is too wide -big and the pulley hits the Head of the motor,the bolt there and wont come off if you don't loose the SC of the bracket to give the small space that's needed to take the pulley off.
once you get a smaller pulley its not necessary to take the SC loose since the pulley is smaller and wont hit the Head Bolt that's opposite the Pulley and there is no problem changing them,
The oem SC pulley is the only problem maker. On AP1 i am sure it cant be done without loosening the bracket bolts.
I took the SC Airfilter housing to get better access to the Brackets Bolts on the SC so i recommend to take the housing of the filter off also.
Releasing the pulley is no biggie just Hold the opposite bolt on the SC wheel side when you loose the pulley.
I don't know about AP2 but since the AP2 has a smaller pulley i assume it can be done without the SC bracket loosening.
Biggest problem for me was loosening the Pulley itself from the shaft..It seemed Stuck there and i had some time lost on loosening it from it.The bolt comes off easily.
good luck.
#10
I somehow managed to delete my install pics, but I snapped some of the motor, hopefully it'll help the explainations. This is what I did to install the new pulley. I take no responsibility for this being incorrect or for you messing up your car. My experience resulted in the car running fine, it is faster than it was, hasn't blown up, and I DIDN'T take the supercharger off (even though that's impossble, apparently).
I'm not sure exactally which socket sizes I needed for the install, but it wasn't anything out of the ordinary. A basic set of tools should get the job done, I think a couple screw drivers, rachet(s)/wrench(es), 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, and something to pry the pulley off were the only tools I needed but I could be wrong.
If you have a strut tower brace you will need to remove it first. Then take the airbox (1) off and the air hose (2) going to the supercharger. Put a rachet/wrench on the supercharger pulley (4) and one on the bolt in the middle of the SC air intake (2, once hose is removed). This is the only way I could keep the pulley from turning when I tried to remove the pulley bolt. Once the pulley bolt is broken loose, remove it.
Loosen the pulley tensioner bolt (3), this should allow you to remove the SC belt. I then loosened the 2 bracket bolts just above the tensioner bolt, this is only necessary on a stock pulley AP1. Before loosening these bolts the SC pulley will just barely rub on the other pulley. Loosening the bracket bolt allows the supercharger to be angled just a little in order to clear the other pulley. Reinstalling my AP2 pulley was not a problem, so 0.2" (or whatever it was) decrease in diameter is enough to clear the other pulley.
Removing the pulley is the most difficult part, or it was for me at least. It was on there VERY tight and took quite a bit of beating and banging. There's no real trick, at least that I found, just beat the crap out of it. Once the pulley is off, put the new one back on and put it all back together.
Most importantly!!! Retune! I know a lot of people are going from stock boost to a AP2 or 4" (7psi) pulley on the stock ECU, that's what I did. At the very least, you'll need to raise the fuel pressure, locate the FPR (5). Loosen the bolt on the top of the FPR, with an allen wrench turn the adjustment clockwise to increase fuel pressure. I've adjusted on mine quite a bit, trying to get AFR's just right. I believe I ended up going about 1.5 turns with my AP2 (6psi) pulley. If you don't have a wideband get it on a dyno before you beat on it, and adjust as needed.
Hope that helps.
I'm not sure exactally which socket sizes I needed for the install, but it wasn't anything out of the ordinary. A basic set of tools should get the job done, I think a couple screw drivers, rachet(s)/wrench(es), 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, and something to pry the pulley off were the only tools I needed but I could be wrong.
If you have a strut tower brace you will need to remove it first. Then take the airbox (1) off and the air hose (2) going to the supercharger. Put a rachet/wrench on the supercharger pulley (4) and one on the bolt in the middle of the SC air intake (2, once hose is removed). This is the only way I could keep the pulley from turning when I tried to remove the pulley bolt. Once the pulley bolt is broken loose, remove it.
Loosen the pulley tensioner bolt (3), this should allow you to remove the SC belt. I then loosened the 2 bracket bolts just above the tensioner bolt, this is only necessary on a stock pulley AP1. Before loosening these bolts the SC pulley will just barely rub on the other pulley. Loosening the bracket bolt allows the supercharger to be angled just a little in order to clear the other pulley. Reinstalling my AP2 pulley was not a problem, so 0.2" (or whatever it was) decrease in diameter is enough to clear the other pulley.
Removing the pulley is the most difficult part, or it was for me at least. It was on there VERY tight and took quite a bit of beating and banging. There's no real trick, at least that I found, just beat the crap out of it. Once the pulley is off, put the new one back on and put it all back together.
Most importantly!!! Retune! I know a lot of people are going from stock boost to a AP2 or 4" (7psi) pulley on the stock ECU, that's what I did. At the very least, you'll need to raise the fuel pressure, locate the FPR (5). Loosen the bolt on the top of the FPR, with an allen wrench turn the adjustment clockwise to increase fuel pressure. I've adjusted on mine quite a bit, trying to get AFR's just right. I believe I ended up going about 1.5 turns with my AP2 (6psi) pulley. If you don't have a wideband get it on a dyno before you beat on it, and adjust as needed.
Hope that helps.