DIY: Installing new pulley
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Originally Posted by scottrunsxc,Sep 27 2007, 06:38 AM
I somehow managed to delete my install pics, but I snapped some of the motor, hopefully it'll help the explainations. This is what I did to install the new pulley. I take no responsibility for this being incorrect or for you messing up your car. My experience resulted in the car running fine, it is faster than it was, hasn't blown up, and I DIDN'T take the supercharger off (even though that's impossble, apparently).
I'm not sure exactally which socket sizes I needed for the install, but it wasn't anything out of the ordinary. A basic set of tools should get the job done, I think a couple screw drivers, rachet(s)/wrench(es), 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, and something to pry the pulley off were the only tools I needed but I could be wrong.
If you have a strut tower brace you will need to remove it first. Then take the airbox (1) off and the air hose (2) going to the supercharger. Put a rachet/wrench on the supercharger pulley (4) and one on the bolt in the middle of the SC air intake (2, once hose is removed). This is the only way I could keep the pulley from turning when I tried to remove the pulley bolt. Once the pulley bolt is broken loose, remove it.
Loosen the pulley tensioner bolt (3), this should allow you to remove the SC belt. I then loosened the 2 bracket bolts just above the tensioner bolt, this is only necessary on a stock pulley AP1. Before loosening these bolts the SC pulley will just barely rub on the other pulley. Loosening the bracket bolt allows the supercharger to be angled just a little in order to clear the other pulley. Reinstalling my AP2 pulley was not a problem, so 0.2" (or whatever it was) decrease in diameter is enough to clear the other pulley.
Removing the pulley is the most difficult part, or it was for me at least. It was on there VERY tight and took quite a bit of beating and banging. There's no real trick, at least that I found, just beat the crap out of it. Once the pulley is off, put the new one back on and put it all back together.
Most importantly!!! Retune! I know a lot of people are going from stock boost to a AP2 or 4" (7psi) pulley on the stock ECU, that's what I did. At the very least, you'll need to raise the fuel pressure, locate the FPR (5). Loosen the bolt on the top of the FPR, with an allen wrench turn the adjustment clockwise to increase fuel pressure. I've adjusted on mine quite a bit, trying to get AFR's just right. I believe I ended up going about 1.5 turns with my AP2 (6psi) pulley. If you don't have a wideband get it on a dyno before you beat on it, and adjust as needed.
Hope that helps.
I'm not sure exactally which socket sizes I needed for the install, but it wasn't anything out of the ordinary. A basic set of tools should get the job done, I think a couple screw drivers, rachet(s)/wrench(es), 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, and something to pry the pulley off were the only tools I needed but I could be wrong.
If you have a strut tower brace you will need to remove it first. Then take the airbox (1) off and the air hose (2) going to the supercharger. Put a rachet/wrench on the supercharger pulley (4) and one on the bolt in the middle of the SC air intake (2, once hose is removed). This is the only way I could keep the pulley from turning when I tried to remove the pulley bolt. Once the pulley bolt is broken loose, remove it.
Loosen the pulley tensioner bolt (3), this should allow you to remove the SC belt. I then loosened the 2 bracket bolts just above the tensioner bolt, this is only necessary on a stock pulley AP1. Before loosening these bolts the SC pulley will just barely rub on the other pulley. Loosening the bracket bolt allows the supercharger to be angled just a little in order to clear the other pulley. Reinstalling my AP2 pulley was not a problem, so 0.2" (or whatever it was) decrease in diameter is enough to clear the other pulley.
Removing the pulley is the most difficult part, or it was for me at least. It was on there VERY tight and took quite a bit of beating and banging. There's no real trick, at least that I found, just beat the crap out of it. Once the pulley is off, put the new one back on and put it all back together.
Most importantly!!! Retune! I know a lot of people are going from stock boost to a AP2 or 4" (7psi) pulley on the stock ECU, that's what I did. At the very least, you'll need to raise the fuel pressure, locate the FPR (5). Loosen the bolt on the top of the FPR, with an allen wrench turn the adjustment clockwise to increase fuel pressure. I've adjusted on mine quite a bit, trying to get AFR's just right. I believe I ended up going about 1.5 turns with my AP2 (6psi) pulley. If you don't have a wideband get it on a dyno before you beat on it, and adjust as needed.
Hope that helps.
Your the reason why the s2ki.com community is so helpful and understanding. Again, thanks for the help!
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From: Suffolk
Originally Posted by stena,Sep 27 2007, 03:03 AM
Releasing the pulley is no biggie just Hold the opposite bolt on the SC wheel side when you loose the pulley.
If you are, Never ever hold that impeller bolt to loosen the pulley bolt, it will sheer off!!!
Best way is to loosen the pulley bolt while the belt is still on and tight, just give your spanner a few quick hits with a hammer and it will undo easy.
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From: allentown PA
sorry to bring this back but this post helped me out on my pulley install and wanted to just post my input on it. As for taking all the oil lines off and removing the SC I did none. All I did was loose all 4 bolts holding the blower on and pull it back to make room for the pulley to clear when I was removing it. I did how ever keep it all loose to put the new one on c=because I could see no way even with a higher boost pulley to get it on with out keeping it lose. In all this only took me about an hour with just a reg. box wrench. A ratching one would have been nice but I have all my tools are at work. good luck to all who try this cause it's real easy
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Syracuse NY
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