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Dyno graph doesnt look right let me know what you think

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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Default Dyno graph doesnt look right let me know what you think

hey guys just got the car tuned and i got the dyno sheets back and they dont look all that right to me let me know what you think about them

This is also on 9psi with stock map sensor and silencer in the exhaust
Attached Thumbnails Dyno graph doesnt look right let me know what you think-img001.jpg  
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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Well, first of all, you are plotting torque vs. AFR at a given RPM. That is not a usual type graph that shows torque and HP at given RPM. Secondly, if it is correct, I can't believe you still have a motor as it is showing AFR's all above 15. Tell us more about your setup and see if you can find a torque/HP graph.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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dont look like mine
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:40 PM
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Yeah, that a/f is ridiculous. Does your hp/tq look like a saw blade with smoothening taken off? Im willing to bet it would, meaning you are detonating.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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i saw that too and thats whats so weird because my A/F gauge is reading 11.0-11.2 average at wot full boost.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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That's hp vs tq. If they had afr hooked up it woulda been a third line. Hp and tq are on same scale so use left side for numbers.

Regardless though that tune needs help. U should never lose power on vtec engagement. NEVER. What is your setup?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Yea, it's definitely HP and TQ as the relationship between them jives.

You are doing great up to 6K RPM, and then it falls apart; your torque falls off a cliff.

With a blower that makes increasing boost with RPM, your torque should be climbing until around 8000RPM, and then level out and fall a little. Yours, however, just takes a dive. It really looks like your VTEC system isn't functioning. Or, your belt or clutch are slipping. You do have an aftermarket clutch, right?

What fuel management system are you using? AEM or Hondata...or maybe the Greddy Emanage. What injectors are you using?

What was the weight entered and Horsepower @ 50mph? Those are the settings that really will affect how a Mustang reads as they simulate the weight and drag. Put too low a weight in, and measured power will suffer; put too low a HP@50 and the high drag of the S2K won't be modeled. I don't think the latter setting matters as much as the first.

Regardless, something is seriously not right as you are losing torque after VTEC engagement. I think you should be around 220TQ @8500, which is around 355HP.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Precision 5857 JB Turbo
Revhard Manifold
Stage 8 Locking Bolts
ARP Manifold Studs
Precision 750hp Intercooler w/ brackets & fasteners
2.25" Intercooler piping w/ 3" intake pipe
Tial 38mm Wastegate w/ 6psi spring
Rev Hard Dump Tube
Rev Hard 2.5" Downpipe
Synapse Blow Off Valve w/ Greddy Adapter Flange
Canton Oil Filter Relocation Kit w/ -10an Braided lines & fittings
Breather filter with hose
AEM Tru boost
AEM UEGO
Prosport Premium Oil Pressure Gauge 52mm
K&N filter
3" single megan echaust with ur testpipe
750cc rc injectors
255lph fuel pump
AEM EMS Version2
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:18 PM
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i just emailed the tuner to see what he set everything at, my computer which is vista which is horrible btw wont read my EMS
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Looks like what happens with log manifolds in VTEC. You can try raising VTEC from 6500 to 7000 rpm, a bigger down pipe, and a bigger turbine housing. They will help, but honestly, the best way to prevent that torque drop off is to switch to a tubular manifold.

Tim
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