The cut before the map sensor was changed was at like 12 or 14. Once it was changed, it went to 42 psi. So im not sure if the map sensor controls the boost cut or if it reset the aem specs. But yea a bit high.lol.

 

Before the map sensor change it was at 12 psi because i set it there. I know that setting a sensor through the wizard causes a change in the boost cut setting but i because i entered the map sensor settings manually, i didn't expect the boost cut value to change on it's own.

 

^^^ i can vouch for this guy...


i have known him for a few years, his the only guy that touched my 240...my car made 500+ for over a year with no problems and 600+ for a few month until i sold the car...

sometimes is just easier to blame it on the tuner other than accepting you went the cheap way and things didnt go the way you wanted or w.e...just my 2cents

 

Unless you did a compression test before you brought your car in, doing one now may tell you your engine health and is good to do. But it will do little to prove this guy jacked up your car (if it is even messed up) if your test comes back off. Cause the compression ratio could have been off before you brought your car to him. You have been boosted for a bit now.

 

I did one before it was boosted and it was 185, 190, 190, 195. Im going to do one now when I change out the powdercoat the valve cover just for my piece of mind. I'm not trying to place blame on the tuner and in the end just wanted him to tell me to bring the car by the shop and we can do a compression/leak down test. I know what risk my car goes through when going on a dyno and is why I would have liked all safety percautions checked before doing its pull. I didnt even mention the shop's name on my original post cause in the end, I just care about the health of my car and wanted a recommendation to what I should check or do to ensure its still running properly.

Regarding the boost controller, I contacted the ebay seller(he is a shop) and told me that he would send me a new replacement. Can I test these before it goes to the dyno to prevent this type of issue again? Should I tell him I want another brand since multiple people that responded on this post advise that the turbosmart manual boost controller is junk?

 

it seems to me that this is a good old fashion case of misunderstanding that resulted in a simple scene being escalated. im sure you guys can work this out.

 

After speaking to the seller in regards to the boost controller, if you see the hole being blocked, does that mean it raises the boost and if you can see completely through the whole, that means its not adding any boost? The instructions say if you turn int anti clockwise that it lowers the boost, but when i Had it turned all the way anticlockwise, the whole was blocked. If i turn it clockwise, the knob ontop goes up and then eventually I'm able to see straight through. Is this thing backwards? If thats the case, the device works properly, it just was set for full boost.

 

I think its pretty obvious you had it set for full boost

 

Thats freaking great. The instructions were wrong..

My tuner mentinoed to me that i would be ok all the way to 16 psi incase there was creep. If i get this to work properly by setting it correctly to 11-12 psi, would I then need another tune?

Reason I ask is I dont think RaceLab wants to deal with me anymore, so if I take it somewhere else, they will want to charge me full price for a completely new tune plus dyno.

 

Dude your killing me, I am not trying to bust your balls but based on your last tune you did not pay for that. If your gonna run a turbo S then get ready to spend some money. I hope you get your car figured out but you should just get a real boost controller and not burn your bridges.