MY SETUP:
Vortech with a/c
JIC bullett exhaust w/ test pipe
Exedy Hyper Carbon Clutch
no other engine mods

from what people were telling me this weekend i need to get a new air filter and i am going to change my plugs.

what do you guys think as far as A/F ratio and all? i know my plugs need to be changed so that could make a difference as well as my filter.

what plugs would you guys recommend as well as the gap for my setup?

I was thinking about taking off my vortech airbox and just putting a cone filter directly on the blower. what do you think about that as well?

thanks for the help and input in advance guys!!!

 

You're about 30 to 40 whp short of the norm.

What are you using for plugs (and gap) right now? Try the NGK V-Power copper racing plus (need to be changed every few thousands miles, though). Gap them to around 0.032" to 0.034".
What do people think is wrong with your filter? Other than being a bit on the small side, even dirty, it shouldn't have cause this kind of HP drop. I put in my old JR filter and made an airbox out of a plastic plant pot to keep the water out (vented hood).

A/F looks OK, maybe a slight bit on the rich side but still OK.

 

my car was very hot too from just running around the track about 20-30 mins before. they did say i was running a little rich towards the top.

a couple people said that a dirty filter "could" make me run rich too.

nibble who has the same setup as me (different exhaust but still a straight through pipe) dyno'd in the 270's and that was still low (possibly plugs).

who knows it could be the dyno too?

 

I saw that "nibble" posted in another thread that he's had a high rpm "hiccup" for the last year. He may have a plug problem or a MAP problem.

And of course, the dyno and how the parameters were inputted will have bearing on the numbers that come out of it.

 

I'll bet it is your exhaust. How do I know? I used to have the same exhaust w/ a test pipe also. Pull off the JIC and put the stock back on. If you look into the JIC piping you'll see it go from 2.5" to about 1.5" inside the resonator. The JIC is okay for NA, but horrible for FI.

 

wow im discouraged by those numbers.

i think i'm gonna dyno junk cause of hawaii...with the heat and humidity i'm worried. also about 1/4 mile times too, cause our track sucks

 

My A/F ratios were at the 12.5 to 13:1 range at the top with the Vortech. Everything on the car is stock besides the AEM FPR and gauges. Im not sure how much lower the A/F will be without the CAT, it may just be normal for your car.

 

I seriously think it could just be the dyno. From what you had told me last night over AIM it seems that there were quite a few cars that were dyno'ing significantly lower than normal.

 

it was a rollon dyno so it should put out higher than actual numbers, def not lower.

There gotta be something wrong with your car though. I don't know if you were on it 100% or not the few times we went at it but that should not be the result when NA and FI S2000s race.

 

No. Generally a Dynapack will produce higher numbers than a DynoJet. A Mustang dyno usually produces the lowest. On the roller type dyno, your car has to rotate the wheels/tires. On the Dynapack type, the wheels are removed, leaving the drivetrain to rotate less weight x 2.

Dan, fresh plugs and a clean air filter will help. Too bad you didn't have those there. You could have jumped off the dyno and swapped them out after the motor cooled down a bit. Only then would you have known the benefit of addressing those two things. Gotta compare apples to apples.