riceball777

This is 100% not true. With out fans running going freeway speeds my car with over heat right away. Even with only 1 fan unpluged when on the freeway i can go from 180 water temps to 220+ very fast. I have had almost every radiator and fan combo. I have owned the stock radiator, mishimoto radiator, and now the mr sideways dual pass radiator. I have also own the stock fans, mishimoto slim fans, spal low profile fans, spal medium profile fans, spal high performance fans and the spal extreme performance fans.

I have a huge garrett 1000hp very dense core 24x12x3.5 intercooler that is blocking the front end of the car plus i have a large oil cooler then the stock ac condenser then the radiator. Because of this the radiator gets very little clean air flow. I never had a problem with the water temps at idle or in traffic even with the stock setup. The issue is always at freeway speed the water temp would climb to over 220+. runing ac made it over heat a lot faster. This also was only an issue at 90+ days. Going over big and long hill on the freeway also made it much worse. The aluminum mishimoto radiator help a tiny bit but not much. The mishimoto slim fans are crap and flow worst than stock fans. The spal low profile and medium profile fans also dont help as they flow about the same as stock. The spal high performance fans and extreme performance fans made a huge difference. With these fans on a supper hot 100+ degree day with the ac blasting on the freeway the temps maybe can climb to 210 at the most. Then i installed the mrsideways dual pass radiator and that also made a huge difference. This radiator with the spal high performacen and extreme performance fans i can keep my water temps at 185-200 with the ac blasting on a 100+ degree day.

But the issue is that with the spal high performance fans and extreme performance fans the car will stall if its at idle when the fans kick on. You must install a high output fan controller that soft starts the fans at 10% power and slowly ramps the power up so that the car does not stall. I use this fan controller. constant temperature controllers
i have my fans come on at 10% power at 170 degrees and slowly hit 100% power at 188 degrees.

But this is only a band aid to the real problem. The real problem is all the coolers blocking air to the radiator. My setup will work for a street car or a drag or autocross car. I'm positive my watertemps would over heat very fast on a race track after a few laps. The real solution is a v mount intercooler/radiator setup.

riceball777

The fan will solve your issue but this fan with the spal high output relay will cause your car to stall when the fans kick on. You need this fan but do not buy the high out put real and wiring kit. you need this fan controller.
constant temperature controllers

riceball777

i have a mugen vented hood and in my opinion it does not help with with water temps much. I did not see a difference in water temps with the vented hood. The issue in the radiator not getting any air flow. Thats why the water temps climb when your moving and not when your still in traffic. The stock fans cant pull enough hot air hot of the radiator when the car is at speed. spal extreme performance fans will help tremendously.

rmerchant3

Fans do restrict flow at speeds if they are providing a lower cfm amount than the air from the front of the vehicle. OEM manufactures have designed this into their ecu calibrations for years due to this. If you have an extremely powerful fan, there may be a benefit....but it would have to be EXTREMELY powerful. I run the high performance fan from spal, and had to adjust my calibration to turn the fan off at speeds above 45mph due to the temperature climbing. I can manually turn the fan on and off via my laptop while driving and recreate this. Every setup is different, and adding aftermarket parts always throws a wrench in things, but the physics of it remain unchanged.

Your car should not be stalling when the fans kick on and if it does consistently that indicates an issue in the tune. There is no need for the fan controller, although it is a nice touch. The amperage draw can be compensated for before the fans even come on. I would be happy to take a look at your calibration for you if you'd like. Although different computers control it in different manners, it shouldn't be an issue.

Mijae007

Ahhhh, that makes sense. It also sucks that the reality is that this solution probably is a bandaid. ugh. and is it true this fan will kill the engine by turning on? What if its directly wired into the battery with a relay?

riceball777

i can only speak from my experience with my car. If i unplug my fans or turn them off when i'm just cruising on the freeway the water temps will climb super fast. I'm sure if my radiator had clean air and did not have my huge intercooler /oil cooler/ac condenser blocking all the air that it would not even need fans at freeway speeds. But this is not the case. My water temps are the coolest when not moving and only go up and are harder to control as the speed goes up.

The huge voltage spike when the spal extrem/high performance fans kick can stall the engine if your ideling. If the ac is running it makes it even worse. I as well my tuner have tried everything to tune this out with no success. I first tried to add a huge capacitor to the fan and that did help but did not solve the issue. The only solution that i came up with over the years is to run a fan controller that starts the fans slow and slowly ramps up the speed as the water temp climbs.

riceball777

Like i said i have owned even radiator and fan out there. The spal extreme performance fan draws a lot of power but the initial startup when the fan kicks on will draw 2-4 times more power for a split second then what the fan normally draws. This split second when the fans kick on is what will stall the engine if the engine is idling. This fan cannot be ran with the stock fan wiring as it will blow the fuse right away and yes it must be ran and powered straight from the battery. But the spal relay that powers this fan uses the stock fan power wire to trigger the fan to turn on all at once and at full power like i said will stall the car. You can try it if you like but this was my experience. My experience with the spal extreme and high performance fans is that you need a soft start fan controller.

RAIN H8R

The bottom line is you need airflow flowing through the radiator. If the intercooler blocks flow, a fan will assist even above 40. Ideally, you want direct fresh air to hit the radiator.

riceball777

I 100% agree. Like most of us turbo guys we have a large front mount intercooler that blocks the front front opening of the car so your not going to get fresh air to the radiator unless you run a v mount setup. If you look at all the stock cars that run a front mount intercooler. There always have a opening in the bumper for fresh air to the radiator that is not blocked by the intercooler and they have a separate opening for the intercooler.

For a turbo s2000 that does not do open lapping on a race track a spal extreme/high performance fan will fix this issue.

echofilter

I disagree about a fan hurting airflow. They are pull type fans, the only negative thing it should do is freewheel and achieve basically nothing (which would still be a reason for OEMs to deactivate them).
It is very important to have an undertray for cooling. If you can, make a ramp from the bottom of the intercooler to the bottom of the radiator support that will help ensure you're getting max airflow through the radiator. Additionally, aftermarket rads may help but they usually do not seal passages adjacent to the radiator like the OEM foam does. You can help remedy this with a foam spray.

There is little reason to use an aftermarket fan unless you NEED the room. The stock fan flows quite high and has a good shroud. A shroud is also important for good fan performance if you don't have one but should have little effect at the speeds you're having cooling problems.

Finally, if you removed or modified your stock plastic cooling plate you should look into some type of upper block to direct the air into, instead of over, the radiator.