saleach

I am getting very high ECT Readings on my 06 AP2. Details on the car are below.

• 2006 Supercharged (14PSI) S2000
• Upgraded Schmuck Built Radiator with custom shrouding and (2) spal slim fans (dual core, twin pass)
• Honda TYP2 coolant, carefully bled and double checked.
• Heat Exchanger, large Oil cooler, AC Condenser then Radiator
• On my 2nd engine due to probably overheating while on the track
• Texas heat (90° Ambient)
• J's racing headers with no heat shield
• Vented Hood

My issue is that I cannot get my coolant temps down enough. Currently they are hovering about 195F on the freeway with no AC. with the AC on bringing in outside air they jump up to 210F and with AC On recirculate they skyrocket to 220F+!! I have checked that the lower hose is warm which usually means the coolant is flowing.

I know i have too much stuff in front of the radiator and the ambient is really hot but is there anything that could do to get things down? I am planning on wrapping the header in an effort to reduce heat soak, but i dont think that will make a huge difference in the ECTs.

Any suggestions?

MorngWoodStewie

Stop using your AC lol. Or try regular AC with a tad of heat switched on to help. 195 aint bad and i would regular 205-208's but track duty is always anotyer animal in itself. I cant imagine why you would be using your AC that much in a racing environment "application" though.

Chuck S

As you note you're blocking the radiator with a lot of stuff. Is something like "water wetter" safe or just hype?

-- Chuck

Kenny_Stang

Do you still have all of your plastics, specifically the one that connects the front of the car to the radiator? You need to make sure you that the air is forced to go through all of the coolers (oil, heat exchanger, radiator) and not below/above/around it. I also have a 2006 that is supercharged with the SoS Racing Heat Exchanger and a KoyoRad Radiator with stock fans and track it regularly with no overheating issues. I put my oil cooler in the passenger side behind the fake vent, which was opened up.

saleach

Haha yes, when im tracking the ac is off or i have it on heat with low fan. My temps on the track aren't too bad (210-230 then a cooldown lap) but it's the fact that im seeing 230+ on the highway when i have the AC on re-circulation. I will try it today with the AC in the middle of the temp settings and report back.

I believe water wetter+ Honda Type 2 coolant makes sludge. I have seen it start to form and have since ditched it. I have contemplated running only distilled water and water wetter but with my temps in the 230+ range i am worried about boiling. The type 2 doesn't boil until 268F.

I do have all of my plastics as far as undertrays go. The stock radiator air dam was removed in order to make room for my oil cooler (it's very large) and i installed a CF cooling plate in its place. I have since switched to the NRG stainless steel cooling plate as the design is closer to the stock one as far as vent holes are concerned. FWIW I also have foam stuffed around the radiator to ensure air is forced through. As for the oil cooler location, i used the same spot for my older, smaller 19 row cooler but found that i could not get enough air through it to cool the oil and was having oil heating issues 310F+. After i beefed up the oil cooler and moved it to the front bumper my oil temps decreased, but after the engine swap and retune (and oil cooler in front) i am noticing a spike in ECTs.

Im not sure why I am having so many cooling issues with this setup. I am running out of options before having to just gut the AC and do Vmount. It just sucks because being in Texas it's too hot to drive most of the year without AC.

Thanks for the replies, keep them coming!

Kenny_Stang

I'm also in Texas (Dallas/Fort Worth), so I am aware of the challenges we face here. On the street my oil stays about 210F, at the track highest I've seen is 260F. This is with the standard S2000 Mishimoto 19 row oil cooler. What is the design of the SchmuckBuilt radiator? Is it a dual pass like the Mr.Sideways radiator that SakeBomb is now selling? I will likely be going V-Mount next year as well, not due to coolant/oil temps but to help lower IAT's on the track.

King Tut

Ditch that radiator/shroud/fan setup and buy one that works. I bet an OEM radiator with a single fan would work better.

deception9

too little of a temperature delta by the time the TX 90 degree air goes through three heat exchangers then goes through the radiator last. you need more air flow, more fan, lower ambient temps or less heat exchangers in front of your radiator.

btw, I/H/E with a wrapped header, stock coolant set up and oil cooler set up. my water temps would bounce between 208-212 with AC on recirculate. oil temps would not get about 240 in stop and go with AC on.

maybe wrapping the header will help. i'm thinking if the vents wildly changed the air flow under hood from exiting out from underneath to trying to come out the top of the hood that could contribute. another thought is oil cooler after the radiator as Oil will just about always be hotter than the coolant.

saleach

Yes the schmuck built is a dual core, dual pass design similar to mr. sideways. i also got a custom shroud for better airflow through the radiator. however, while i have seen a marked improvement over the mishimoto (was seeing 250 on the track and 220 cruising with no AC) it's still not idea. I suspect it's due to the amount of restriction in front of the radiator. I may try to V mount the heat exchanger and oil cooler, but i doubt i will be able to with the AC canister and lines. While i dont want to gut the AC, i fear that's where i may be headed.


I don't think that's true. My stock radiator didn't last 2 weeks with my S/C setup and i have already seen an improvement over the mishimoto. While the fans are not ideal, i dont think they are a huge factor in radiator cooling once the car is at highway speeds of 75mph. The CFM output may be lower than stock, but I would think the difference would be negligible at those speeds. I could be wrong though.

MorngWoodStewie

I agree with tut. When the coolant enters and needs the ability to start cooling the quickest, there is giant triangles of holes in the shroud that prevents the fans from pulling air. The top part of the rad is probably useless like this.
That shroud looks form over function. Probably car show thing.