Elda Engineering Turbo Kit
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Mother F'in TN
Vortech uses a reservoir mounted under the right headlight. It's a piece originally meant for a LT-1 Camaro, and doesn't hold anywhere near 3 gallons. I'd guess it may hold 2 quarts.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: St. Louis
Wael, do you have any more pictures of the turbo setup? How big is the raiator that will be included? Is it similar in size to ones like the Spearco and will it have a "presentable" appearance? Keep up the amazing work!
BTW...I pm'ed you with a few questions regarding the kit as well.
BTW...I pm'ed you with a few questions regarding the kit as well.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Connecticut via Abu Dhabi
Radiator is 1.25". I polished the end tanks on mine just rubbing it with some steel wool and rubbing P21S polish compound. Aluminum in general is very easy to finish, so options can be added, but the standard finish is smooth unpolished. One can even spray it black to make it discrete too, which is what I would prefer, but doesn't photograph nicely as far as magazines are concerned.
I will take more photos over next few days.
W
I will take more photos over next few days.
W
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Joined: Mar 2003
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For those that think $6k is too much, I believe they're not considering the parts in the system, such as the larger injectors, the plug & play wiring harness, the e-manage, the GReddy pressure sensor, the larger radiator, the dual ball bearing, water cooled turbo, the 5 intricate heatshields, the airbox, the cast iron manifold, the water tank, the water pump...if anything, this system is cheap when you consider how much every other forced induction kits are market up. If you really examine what you get in this system, you will see that its actually a very good price
is there a way you can option things out for certain exceptions?
i already have 550 cc injectors using an AEM ems with a Vtecfrog plug and play wiring harness.... i also have the spearco radiator for the aftercooler on my comptech sc kit.... how much would that knock off?
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Connecticut via Abu Dhabi
Car has been dynoed...several times actually and logged about 35 hours on the dyno so far and about 10k miles of turbo street driving. It's put down 220 lb-ft and 284 RWHP running 5 psi of boost.
I am holding off dyno results posting until I refine the tuning further using the 440cc injectors and in final configuration. Deciding the final configuration has been a very long and difficult affair. We initially tested with rising rate fuel pressure regulator, stock injectors and high pressure/high flow pump... then we added the e-manage, then tested with rising rate fuel pressure regulator, 550cc injectors, high pressure/high flow pump and emanage...then stock regulator,550cc injectors, high pressure/high flow pump and emanage...then same but with no additional pump... and now we're trying it with 440cc, stock regulator, no additional pump. All these changes means we have to retune then street verify and many hours of OBD II monitoring.
The part throttle was tuned mostly today with the 440cc and the results are very promising compared to what the part throttle was with 550cc. I managed to get the short term fuel trim down to an acceptable range where the long term fuel trim is not going to have dramatic changes and become much closer to what a stock car will trim. I will continue to drive (until it snows in New England) to make sure the OBD II is displaying the results we want.
The changes need to be confirmed with more street driving. The 550cc resulted in several problems and recent logs indicated a maximum duty cycle of 51%, so they were clearly too large for our application, this resulted in massive fuel dumped in part throttle between 5-15% TPS. There were times we were removing 50% fuel with little to no effect on short term fuel trim. With the 440cc, the idle is much better, so is the spray pattern. While there seems to be little real need to use anything but stock fuel injectors, there is also something to be said about how good the car ran with the rising rate fuel pressure regulator (often called FMU for some odd reason).However running high duty cycles leaves very little room for cushion, say if someone runs more boost, or boost spikes. There needs to be some safe margin built in the fuel delivery system.
While everyone like a sexy dyno sheet, the main concern for us is to make sure this will all work, and work properly it must before it goes on sale. Once we are happy with the way it drives, and final configuration is decided, then we will post a dyno sheet.
I am sure this sounds like pure marketing bull to some, but it's really what we've been doing for so long. Most other companies would never invest what we did, and not try to recoup their investment very quickly. I want to be as cautious as possible.
cheers
W
I am holding off dyno results posting until I refine the tuning further using the 440cc injectors and in final configuration. Deciding the final configuration has been a very long and difficult affair. We initially tested with rising rate fuel pressure regulator, stock injectors and high pressure/high flow pump... then we added the e-manage, then tested with rising rate fuel pressure regulator, 550cc injectors, high pressure/high flow pump and emanage...then stock regulator,550cc injectors, high pressure/high flow pump and emanage...then same but with no additional pump... and now we're trying it with 440cc, stock regulator, no additional pump. All these changes means we have to retune then street verify and many hours of OBD II monitoring.
The part throttle was tuned mostly today with the 440cc and the results are very promising compared to what the part throttle was with 550cc. I managed to get the short term fuel trim down to an acceptable range where the long term fuel trim is not going to have dramatic changes and become much closer to what a stock car will trim. I will continue to drive (until it snows in New England) to make sure the OBD II is displaying the results we want.
The changes need to be confirmed with more street driving. The 550cc resulted in several problems and recent logs indicated a maximum duty cycle of 51%, so they were clearly too large for our application, this resulted in massive fuel dumped in part throttle between 5-15% TPS. There were times we were removing 50% fuel with little to no effect on short term fuel trim. With the 440cc, the idle is much better, so is the spray pattern. While there seems to be little real need to use anything but stock fuel injectors, there is also something to be said about how good the car ran with the rising rate fuel pressure regulator (often called FMU for some odd reason).However running high duty cycles leaves very little room for cushion, say if someone runs more boost, or boost spikes. There needs to be some safe margin built in the fuel delivery system.
While everyone like a sexy dyno sheet, the main concern for us is to make sure this will all work, and work properly it must before it goes on sale. Once we are happy with the way it drives, and final configuration is decided, then we will post a dyno sheet.
I am sure this sounds like pure marketing bull to some, but it's really what we've been doing for so long. Most other companies would never invest what we did, and not try to recoup their investment very quickly. I want to be as cautious as possible.
cheers
W
I look forward to seeing you and the car again this spring! Don't work to hard. 
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Sunnyvale
Originally Posted by Wael El-Dasher,Nov 8 2004, 08:24 PM
Hi Wael,
The Air unit:
1. generally slightly more efficient. Usually in range of 70 to 85%.
2. generally more restrictive, which actually drives up the exhaust gas back pressure.
3. simpler
4. cheaper
Water unit:
1. Less restrictive ... usually the in range of 60 to 75%.
2. Slightly better boost response
3. "perceived" to be more efficient
4. "perceived" to be much more responsive.
5. competes better with the best S2000 received system .... Comptech
The Air unit:
1. generally slightly more efficient. Usually in range of 70 to 85%.
2. generally more restrictive, which actually drives up the exhaust gas back pressure.
3. simpler
4. cheaper
Water unit:
1. Less restrictive ... usually the in range of 60 to 75%.
2. Slightly better boost response
3. "perceived" to be more efficient
4. "perceived" to be much more responsive.
5. competes better with the best S2000 received system .... Comptech
A good air to water intercooler is often more efficient than an air to air over short time intervals, which is why they are better for drag racing. A 3 gallon reservoir is nice but make sure it's easily accessible and that the opening is large enough for ice cubes. My argument is that over extended periods of boost (track days or even long canyon carving sessions on hot days) the coolant will heat up more than you can get the heat out.
He's right about simpler and cheaper for air to air. I don't agree with the perceptions. If you could save $500 off the price of your kit with an air to air, I'd strongly recommend going with that, rather than trying and air to water for preceived market conditions.