S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Engine bay heat

Thread Tools
 
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 05:06 AM
  #11  
CaptKirk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 21,645
Likes: 0
From: The HS that is NoVA
Default

Originally Posted by S2KPANG,Aug 11 2006, 01:36 AM
Is your turbo watercooled?
Yes... GT35R
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 07:49 PM
  #12  
ex-eclipse's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Default

Originally Posted by CaptKirk,Aug 10 2006, 05:57 PM
I guess it might be okay for a turbocharged setup, but from what I see based on the temperatures that the Mugen thermostat and fan switch work at, NA motor temperatures are considerably lower. For example, look at the Thermostat... the stock thermostat opens at 76-80 C... which is 168.8-176 F. The Mugen one opens at 68 C, which is 154.4 F.

The stock setting for the fan to turn on is 93 C (199.4 F), the Mugen one changes that to 80 C (176 F).

(BTW I got all of these numbers from kingmotorsports.com)

Besides all of this, I remember reading threads in FI where people with turbo setups have coolant temp warnings to come on at around the temperatures we are currently running at. I can look for these threads again if you'd like.

The other major issue for me is that if I'm pushing the car even for like 2-3 mins the coolant temps get WAAAAYYYYY out of hand. Back in april going to the dragon we decided to take a side road. My coolant temp was at ~240 F within a few turns... I almost had a heart attack and started running my heat on an already hot day sweating like a pig just trying to cool the motor down as fast as possible... all while screwing up the drive for the people behind me cuz I had to start driving like a little pansy.

So with all of this in mind, I've been planning on getting mods that would lower the coolant temps and work efficiently to keep them low even under continuous load..
This is opposite of my car, the slower I go the hotter it runs. When in traffic or at a light it would run 205-212*. As soon as you get about 35-45mph it would go right back down to about 197*. I also have jet-hot coating, Koyo radiator and huge cut out front bumper. Actually I shouldn't say "I" anymore since the new owner will be here tomorrow to pick up the car.
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 08:09 PM
  #13  
KRAZYKOREAN's Avatar
Gold Member
Gold Member (Premium)
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Liked
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,867
Likes: 65
From: Phoenix, AZ
Default

Originally Posted by ex-eclipse,Aug 9 2006, 04:40 PM
Jet-Hot coating on mani, turbine side, and down pipe
Yo what did you pay to have it coated, also what was the turn around time?
Reply
Old Aug 12, 2006 | 08:02 AM
  #14  
passmans2kny's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,651
Likes: 0
From: huntington long island
Default

yes i would love to know this also
Reply
Old Aug 12, 2006 | 09:27 AM
  #15  
CaptKirk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 21,645
Likes: 0
From: The HS that is NoVA
Default

Originally Posted by ex-eclipse,Aug 11 2006, 11:49 PM
This is opposite of my car, the slower I go the hotter it runs. When in traffic or at a light it would run 205-212*. As soon as you get about 35-45mph it would go right back down to about 197*. I also have jet-hot coating, Koyo radiator and huge cut out front bumper. Actually I shouldn't say "I" anymore since the new owner will be here tomorrow to pick up the car.
Well heres the thing... obviously the car heats up when I'm stopped at a light... that is when it can get up to about 220-221, but when I start moving it usually doesn't get below 203-205 or so. And when I'm cruising on the highway, it is usually around 213-217, occasionaly gets down to 210.

I got some coating on my manifold but not 100% sure if its the jet-hot one you guys are talking about. And I think that Koyo radiator you have with the cut out on your bumper helps you. I have the OEM radiator and stock bumper with the grill and everything, lol.

As I said, for now I'm going to get the Mugen thermostat and change the fan engagement temp through EMS, and eventually get an upgraded radiator and fans.



And you sold the car?? Whats up?? Was it giving you problems or something, or did you just get bored of it?
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2006 | 06:17 AM
  #16  
ex-eclipse's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Default

Jet Hot coating was around $400 and took about three weeks with shipping both ways. This was also in March which is busy time for any shop since everyone north is getting stuff together for spring cruising.

Yes, I did sell the car. I needed a change, and something I can drive year round. My budget is enough for one car payment so basically the S would sit in the garage and collect dust from November to April while I drive my junk Saturn around. So I am planning on an Evo IX to drive winter and summer.
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2006 | 09:23 AM
  #17  
passmans2kny's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,651
Likes: 0
From: huntington long island
Default

i considered the evo b4 the s, its just too ugly and big, i love how fast it is but until they make a 2 door evo i will stand by my s, f that ill stand by my s forever
Reply
Old Aug 13, 2006 | 08:20 PM
  #18  
CaptKirk's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 21,645
Likes: 0
From: The HS that is NoVA
Default

Originally Posted by ex-eclipse,Aug 13 2006, 10:17 AM
Jet Hot coating was around $400 and took about three weeks with shipping both ways. This was also in March which is busy time for any shop since everyone north is getting stuff together for spring cruising.

Yes, I did sell the car. I needed a change, and something I can drive year round. My budget is enough for one car payment so basically the S would sit in the garage and collect dust from November to April while I drive my junk Saturn around. So I am planning on an Evo IX to drive winter and summer.
Ahh okay...just for practicality huh... I've been thinking the same thing to be honest, lol. I've been driving the car less and less, I wonder if the headaches and all the associated hassle is worth it...








But after having a nice drive like I did tonight I realize that it is soo worth it Good luck with the Evo... AWD turbo is no joke
Reply
Old Aug 14, 2006 | 08:38 AM
  #19  
geists2k's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Polimangas,Aug 10 2006, 12:15 PM
Thanks all for your great advice...After a bit of thinking I am going with Jet-Hot coating on mani, turbine side, and down pipe. The coating is good 'till about 1300 degrees (Hopefully I won't run anywhere near that).

Just contacted Jet-Hot and the prices are as follows on the Sterling Silver coating...

Manifold - $150
Turbo Housing - $85
Piping - $20 per foot

I believe these prices are reasonable for a great solution

-G
I don't think you can Jet-Hot Sterling the manifold. It's only good to 1300 degrees.

I talked to someone about this and they said Jet-Hot 2000 would be the best solution for a turbo manifold. It's good for up to 2300 degrees, but the color choices are black, gray or blue. I guess black is better than rust and it will help with the underhood temps.

The Sterling does look awesome but I don't think it's high temp enough.
Reply
Old Aug 14, 2006 | 01:16 PM
  #20  
ex-eclipse's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Default

[QUOTE=geists2k,Aug 14 2006, 11:38 AM] I don't think you can Jet-Hot Sterling the manifold.
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:20 AM.