S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

F20 S2000 Engine rebuild suggestions

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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 01:38 AM
  #11  
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Mr-pitts thanks buddy! Some really good advice
Just need to pull the engine out asap and have a look if the block is fine etc (must finish the bike first to make space ) )

Chain wise- you said you have TODA. What is the best you can buy for an s2k? Since I dont have to replace the pistons etc I can spend more on non bhp mods but as I said I would really like to make it really reliable with all the common issues resolved and improoved
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Old Oct 4, 2015 | 04:20 AM
  #12  
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I think the Toda is probably as good as your going to get.....it is heavy duty,I was going to go for the stock oil pump chain but Matt had ordered a Toda one also so I had that.....it is expensive for a little chain tho,I think the oil pump chain was £100 on its own,Matt did it for £85.

Once your engine is apart you'll have a better idea of what you need,I just decided I was going to change everything.......having said that I'll probably miss something simple out.Im not changing the cams or water pump because they can be got at easily enough to get at to replace.

Be careful spending money on cams for forced induction,a lot don't do anything,Matty170 is doing some research into exactly what's needed regarding overlap and lift ect,I think he is having a set made to his own spec.
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 07:12 AM
  #13  
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thinking to stay close to standard head wise... just a good refurb so it's fresh. Or are there parts worth upgrading?
Where can I order the Toda chain then?
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Old Oct 5, 2015 | 11:27 PM
  #14  
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Oem stuff is as good as you are going to get really so stick with it if possible.

Give Matt at Injection Imports a pm,he is a trader on here.

How soon do you need the chains?because if it's urgent you can order new ones off Matt which take around 6 weeks,you could have mine now,provided Matt can get me the replacements.

I need to speak to Matt so I can ask him if you like.
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 10:28 AM
  #15  
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I'm not in a rush and whichever option is cheaper so might as well wait.
I will send him a PM asking about the price, does he get them imported from somewhere?
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 10:31 PM
  #16  
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Yes,Japan I think,I spoke to him yesterday the turn around time is about 3 weeks.I wasn't going to change my oil pump chain but thought whilst the engine was down I might aswell......but the oil pump chain was more expensive than the timing chain.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 01:25 PM
  #17  
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thanks for your advice! how much is the whole set?


Slowly stared preparing to remove the engine, hoping to have it out and start taking it apart next week
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 09:25 AM
  #18  
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i think if you gap the top rings out over stock these motors in healthy form could handle upwards of a 1000whp as the blocks i have seen fail without detonation or oil starvation have 1 fat score mark in each cylinder and or cracked wall due to over expanded compression ring from the excessive heat. basically the ring butts heads with itself and gouges the wall causing failure oh and head studs maybe rod bolts
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 04:47 AM
  #19  
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its a interesting/tricky engine )) but my aim is 300-400bhp... nice weekend/daily and occasional track day toy

I recently removed my first engine.. 330ci from a e46 BMW... huge 3.0 6cyl lump with the box, was nice and easy... after getting the s2k with engine problems I though to myself- this will be piece of cake as the engine bay is huge how wrong was I.....

My plan for it now is:
Stock pistons, stronger chains, improoved bits that fail (tensioners? arp bolts? bearings?) so stock but stronger...

disconnect the box from the engine (loosen the subframe)
Remove the engine... work on it...
When finished remove gearbox (previous owner said 3rd is notchy at redline, should I get 3rd syncros? is a full rebuild a good idea? or AP2 box is a good upgrade? (heard it has improoved parts and might cost me less than fixing mine)
Then remove the front subframe- rust proof and respray the engine bay etc... replace all bushes to Poly on the subframe and replace droplinks etc.

Once all 3 stages are done... connect the box to the engine, to the subframe and slide it under the front.



is that a good plan? As I read all sorts of issues guiding the engine in the box, unable to mount both box and engine due to front reinforcement bar etc... so since the car is for myself and a long term project- I might aswell do the whole front as a one then come back to it later
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #20  
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I think you're wasting your money building an engine for such a negligible amount of power, especially on a stock F20C engine that will take 500whp as previously stated all day. You're better off investing in something worthwhile, e.g. diff, trans which will be your limiting factor down the road when you inveitably decide to crank up the boost.

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