Where did you get that gauge bezel? That thing is sick!!!!

 

Thanks, got it from Ortiz Custom Pods. I was able to get the car tuned @ 7psi for right now. Made 371/261 on 91. Love it, cant wait to up the boost in the fall.

 

I have wrapped my manifold and part of downpipe with DEI Titanium wrap and I must say, this stuff does magic! I have not yet picked up a turbo blanket but I already know its going to be DEI Titanium after seeing the results. I know Hondata has a Bluetooth capabilities on some of their products and can view the vitals of your car on your phone. They have yet to launch out an update for the Kpro though.

 

Wow I cant believe its been this long since I last updated this thread. I guess not much has happened since. I am about to finally install my bezel along with the gauges. I have not added anything new since the last update but more work is on lts way!
I have a question, who do we have on here that can switch out lenses on headlights? Its not for my personal car though otherwise I would do it.

 

I may not answer your question but I know you can my question! How's the car been after going turbo on a high mileage motor??! Any issues you faced yet

 

It has been nothing but loyal to me and I'm at 139k miles even as of right now. I did not drive much for 3 months as I was laid off from my previous job. Its only been ~2,500 miles since I went boost.

 

UPDATES! I happen to inherit a set of V1s from a good friend and slapped them on to see how they look and ride. The tires were toast and had little camber wear. Even though the rears were 255 Dunlop Direzza's... I was able to break them loose at nearly ~30 mph in 2nd gear and slipping going into 3rd. It was scary as the car would swing from side to side violently. Only kept them on for about a month.

I really like how they look on the car but miss the tall tires and comfort with my previous setup.

Before



After


I just noticed that my windows are down and it looks bad in some of these pictures.


After some time I also decided to take care of my inner rear axle cup pitting issue. It was driving me nuts at high speeds. At the same time I went ahead and swapped out the wheels back to the old setup until I am able to get some fresh rubbers for the V1s.

Time to start the project!


Take a look at the difference!




Ill do a quick write-up on how I did the axle repair, It wont be detailed.
You will need a 36mm socket and a Pit Puller. I was able to rent this one from Autozone. This project only cost me $3 since I managed to break one of the boot clamps. I didn't end up using any grease as I just left the old one in there.



Before you remove the wheel and while its still on the ground, go ahead and break the axle nut loose. I undid the stake mark this way it would be easier to remove. I had to use a breaker bar to give me leverage, It took my weight and a good jump on it to get it loose! Be careful here. Once you've got it loose, you can leave it on and continue.


I somehow lost some of my pictures but you can find them on here in the DIY section. loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels and raise the car. Once the car is on jackstands and supported well its safe to get underneath and started removing the axles. I like to use my wheels as an extra caution just in case the car happens to slip or budge.

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I went ahead and removed the the ABS line from its place to give me some slack to move the hub later on.



Next you want to remove the lower control arm bolt with cotter pin. Be gentle on the cotter pin when removing this way it can be reused. I was able to break one (what do you expect on a 14 year old car). I am sorry I don't remember any of the bolt sizes as I did this few weeks ago.




This is where you will this special tool to help remove the hub from the lower control arm.


Make sure when you use this tool, you must line it up in a straight angle with the stud. This will prevent the stud from bending when extreme pressure is applied from the tool. All you need to do is use an adjustable wrench and start cranking on it. It will get really tight then POP! It will come loose.


This is where I don't have anymore pictures as I somehow lost them. I removed the axle nut completely off and started the removal of the spline end out of the hub. This step maybe difficult if there is rust or buildup. You can either use break cleaner and clean it out or put grease on the inside of the hub where the spline enters. This will make it easier to come out. This is why I did this step now. This allows me to pull on the hub with the other end of the axle still intact. Make sure to grip the other end as you don't want to stretch the rubber boots. If you are not careful you will either pull the bearings out or tear the boots- both suck. You may also use a mallet and a stake to tap it out. Now get underneath and start to remove 6 bolts on each side of the inner axles. Here I found it easy to release the e-brake and put the car in neutral, please make sure the car is chucked in the front wheels. This way I can rotate the axle and have access to all the bolts. Using an extension on your socket will also make life easier.

Once you are able to get the axles out, now you can carefully remove the factory boot clamps on the inner boots. I know its hard to explain without pictures but you can search the other threads on here for a better explanation. Without the bearings falling out swap the axle cups from side to side. Mine were worn out pretty badly on both sides in the opposite locations. This also is excellent opportunity to clean out the old grease and apply new high temp grease.

The rest is straight forward. Reverse the steps and make sure everything is tight. When re-installing the axle nuts, please make sure they are on there good and tight. This a big nut and you wont break it. In conclusion, I have never felt my car accelerate so smoothly at such a high speed! Love it. Feel free to ask questions and I will do my best to answer.

That wrap this section of my updates. More to follow!

 

I soon will need to upgrade my cooling system before June. I most likely will pick up a koyo dual core and some slim fans like spal extremes. Hopefully they make those in slim.

 

Do you have any pictures of that gauge bezel installed?

 

I figured Ill use this post to update my gauge bezel install to reply to your post.

Again I suck at taking pictures along the way but will post what ever I did take. I first removed the factory gauge bezel. It is pretty straight forward. There are two caps covering screws in the bezel just about the cluster itself. Carefully remove these without scratching the plastic. After this go ahead and TRY getting underneath the dash to access the three screws holding the steering column cover in place. Once these are loosened up, next move on to the two larger bolts holding the entire steering column in place. Here you might find it easier to use an extension on your socket to reach them. Be careful as you loosen these two bolts the entire steering column will come down on you. Attempt this step little by little. Here I try to capture what it will look like after you remove the covers and the retaining bolts for the column.



Carefully pry the bezel off little by little working your way all the way around. It will come off but with a little fight. Remember, All electrical connections are still intact and need to be disconnected at this point. For AP1 models there are IIRC 4 connectors. Now you can go ahead and take out the bezel completely. At this point I test fitted the new product. There were some modification needed to get it flush. The 4th pod itself needed some trimming behind it to clear the dash. I went ahead and put electrical tape all along my dash near the edge to prevent any damages that may occur during installation. I went ahead and transferred all necessary parts over to the new bezel.



Here you can see the fresh area where I had to trim in all white.


I took this time to extend all the wires to make installation a breeze and give me some slack whenever I need to remove them in the future.





I tapped into the cruise control for power and grounded all of them at one point. I used heat shrink and soldering gun to keep things as clean as possible.



This was the worst part, I do not like the fact that all wires are visible in the back and exposed up front. There is not enough room to slide it between the bezel and dash. This is a temporary solution till I come up with some ideas down the road. The sleeve will be replaced with a superior part as well.

The pod will be for a clock maybe till I need a future add on, like a water temp.



Let me know what you think and if you have any ideas!