Recently I have noticed that quite a few people have tapped their fuel rail on the ends and have split the flow to it. Years ago I had a cylinder drop out of a new WS6 Trans-Am with 5000miles b/c of this and I am wondering if this has ever been an issue with a car pushing only 450-550 at the wheels?

If you did what fittings did you use in the rail?

For that matter when have most had to ditch their Walbro for (2) or an Aeromotive?


PATS4P's Fuel System from another tread

 

I would assume it wasnt simply because both sides of the rail were tapped, id say some other factors were involved.

 

As I see it there are more mods to do before throwing the towel on the Walbro.

Firstly I would strive to have the inlets to the rail symmetrically placed if using 2 inlets.
Example: I would rather have inlets in the 2 ends than one at either end and one in the middle.

Then there is always the possibility to raise the fuelpressure if running a aftermarket FPR. The system benefit from the higher pressure taken the pump handles it.

To increase the capacity of the pump there are these common things that have been discussed alot lately. Kene Bell boost a pump is one way. Simply increasing the voltage to the pump. (More voltage means less current at a given load and a pump that generally runs cooler) Capacity is higher with higher voltage.

Then there is the route with rewiring the walbro. Using the stock fuelpump powerlines to control a relay that opens a circuit of 11-13gauge cords from the battery directly to the pump. Remember to fuse the circuit aswell. I am using a 30A fuse.

For really demanding applications you can use both the above. That lasts a long way.

I myslef value to not have to remodel or change the entire tank insert, and rewiring the walbro only forced me to do small modifications.

There are alot of different solutions to upgrade the fuel system, whats best is in the eyes of the beholder I think. Removing bottlenecks on the feedline is also a good thing to do.

 

I have actually rewired my fuel pump with 10 gauge wire using the same technique as above and did gain voltage at the pump, it also seems to make less noise when getting the correct voltage. I have also read that the stock banjo fittings are the most restrictive parts of the factory fuel system.

 

Yes, here is what I have now. As far as the flow goes I will be able to watch the FP on the dyno and make sure I don't lose pressure.

I can assure you that the boost-a-pump is overkill for our cars. A cheaper inline pump and a hobbs switch works great and cost a fraction of the Kenne-Bell unit. I wrote quite a bit about that in another post.

The double inlets is the real concern, I can tell you that the TA lost the cylinder which was farthest from the fuel inlet as have many others. I was a test mule for this system and found out the hard way.

Other than pulling new lines and adding a transformer how are you going to raise the voltage?

I have read your build many times, and it was what spurred me to write this post.

Based on what I can see the fuel line it self is the biggest restriction, I am just to lazy and cheap to replace it right away.

 

This is only a resonance/harmonic issue, though higher voltage within range is a good thing.

Thanks