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I've recently turbo'd my 2005 with a sidewinder setup. I've wrapped the manifold and downpipe in DEI titanium and 'fabricated' a heat shield out of 0.025" aluminum, as well as offset the fuse box from the heat shield so there's about a 0.5" gap. I've also got a vented factory hood with the front two slots on each side open.
I set temp probes in the battery bay as well as right next to the fuse box near the heat shield. After driving in 92ºF weather, I had around 160ºF temperatures while moving at/over 25mph but slowing down and idling for a minute and temperatures near the fuse box would fluctuate between 175ºF as high as 195ºF. The probe in the general battery area is at least 20ºF cooler, so I'm not concerned there. I've circled the probe tips in yellow.
I've seen posts and references to soft or melted fuse boxes, but I haven't seen anything specific on temperatures. I'm in Texas so 92ºF is a relatively cool summer day, and I'm trying to find some guidance on the 'safe' range for temperatures near the fuse box. Any help or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
i made a little bracket and turned my fuse box sideways. gave me an extra 2-3" of clearance between th manifold and fuse box
Could you snap a picture? I'm seriously considering a trunk mount battery so I can truly shift the fuse box but I don't have tons of time to work on the car so I have to space out projects.
Your setup is very similar to mine and the way I made a heat barrier out of a sheet of aluminum from McMaster-Carr. I haven't gone this far in depth with checking heat levels, but I haven't had any melting issues in the past with this setup for years. One other thing I did do was use some DEI aluminum colored heat shielding sleeve wrap (it's a mesh type similar to your manifold wrap but thinner) and covered wire looms that run up and into the fuse box and any that were near the manifold. My manifold was jet hot coated and the DP left alone on this older setup. My newer Full Race sidewinder setup will be similar with heat shielding also.
Could you snap a picture? I'm seriously considering a trunk mount battery so I can truly shift the fuse box but I don't have tons of time to work on the car so I have to space out projects.
i quickly bent this up with scrap i had laying around, i plan to make a nicer on that will tuck the fuse box closer to the fender. i do have my battery relocated in the trunk though. when i was measuring there should be space albeit tight to do it with a stock sized battery iirc
i quickly bent this up with scrap i had laying around, i plan to make a nicer on that will tuck the fuse box closer to the fender. i do have my battery relocated in the trunk though. when i was measuring there should be space albeit tight to do it with a stock sized battery iirc
I've got a PC680 battery, so it's lower profile. I need to relo to the trunk so I can get back to a normal battery size again but for now I may look to shift it further to the side and see if I can get the fuse box sideways like that. Thanks for providing the picture.
I am not sure of the fuse box materials, but ABS and other similar plastics start to soften around 200 degrees. I'd be happy with any temperature lower than 200 degrees.
I am not sure of the fuse box materials, but ABS and other similar plastics start to soften around 200 degrees. I'd be happy with any temperature lower than 200 degrees.
I would vote to (1) turn the fuse box sideways or (2) relocate it to the side of the fender (I think jason shmuck makes a relocation kit). (3) Another option is a heat shield cover for the fuse box. I think ATP is the company out california that makes the heat shield.
I purchased a very low miles s2000 (<26,000 miles) that the previous owner paid a shop 12k$ to "turbocharge" / ruin because of the hack job that they did. One of the things that was wrong with the car was the fusebox had melted because of the turbo heat and was causing havoc for the car's electrical systems. Obviously I'm not trying to stress you out but with your fuse box being that close to the manifold I wouldn't be the happiest camper.
Just my two cents / hunting down electrical problems is NOT fun (at least it was not for me).
I would vote to (1) turn the fuse box sideways or (2) relocate it to the side of the fender (I think jason shmuck makes a relocation kit). (3) Another option is a heat shield cover for the fuse box. I think ATP is the company out california that makes the heat shield.
I purchased a very low miles s2000 (<26,000 miles) that the previous owner paid a shop 12k$ to "turbocharge" / ruin because of the hack job that they did. One of the things that was wrong with the car was the fusebox had melted because of the turbo heat and was causing havoc for the car's electrical systems. Obviously I'm not trying to stress you out but with your fuse box being that close to the manifold I wouldn't be the happiest camper.
Just my two cents / hunting down electrical problems is NOT fun (at least it was not for me).
I actually picked this kit up cheap because the previous owner started melting his fuse box. But he did not have anything wrapped or shielded at all. I wrapped and shielded everything I could which is why I'm only seems stained temperatures around 175 with random peaks of 195F.
Those temperatures are at idle just because it's hot in Texas and I don't have any plans to track the car this year at least, once I finish my current catch can project I will put together a battery relocate kit so I can get the fuse box adjusted. Thanks for your input.
06-19-2019, 07:45 AM
Fuse Box Temperature Limit
