Getting engine back. What should I be replacing?
How well does that work. And one other question. I was told to get a uego gauge for my AEM 1052. The box says that it has a built in controller, but what gauge should I get? Can I use the previous sensor and still have full function on the gauge?
Do you have a 1052 or 1052U? The U model is the one with the built in wideband. If you only have the 1052 it does not have it built in.
The Velcro works fine, you put the plastic on after and that helps to hold it there also.
The Velcro works fine, you put the plastic on after and that helps to hold it there also.
I have the 1052. And I am pretty sure that I have a narrowband sensor. I need to get the real deal soon. Get a base tune to drive it to KC and let mase work his magic. Any pics of your install? I am curious how you did it up. I live in Iowa and it can get rather bumpy.
Originally Posted by dsddcd,Apr 5 2010, 11:48 AM
Get rid of the St-Stl exhaust valves and get Inconel, make sure the springs come with new retainers and you may want to get new valve guides also.
Originally Posted by jdnissanz,May 17 2010, 09:36 AM
If you can drive to Illinois let Profunction do the tune!
JD
JD
This may sound like a NOOB question. I am going to get my car tuned in about a month. I know driving it untuned is asking for trouble. But mase is tuning in Kansas City, and I don't have a flatbed trailer to haul my car on. I live in Cedar Falls, Iowa. It is 300 mi (5.5) hours away... I was told I should be ok if I don't go into boost. There is a manual boost controller on the car (internally gated turbo). I know it doesn't relieve all the pressure but it does get rid of some right? Should I open it up all the way and drive down there that way and just keep an eye on my af? I don't wanna blow up a fresh engine... Thanks for the advice
Josh
Josh
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