I have a 05' AP2 with a bolt on Greddy kit with a Greddy type RZ bov, factory cat and Greddy TI-C single 70mm and i am using NGK copper plugs(i think) 2 heat ranges down, all part purchased legit from Jon at Vivid Racing. I installed all of the parts mentioned myself mid last year, i am a aviation support equipment mech/elec by trade so this was rather easy to do with the downloaded instructions and s2ki help forums . it ran smooth and strong on the base kit tune as i was only able to drive it for a week until i had to go back overseas.

when i came back in december for vacation i changed out the oil, added new fuel and drove from fresno to Church Automotive added more new fuel for Shaun to tune my car. Shaun did an outstanding job and also told me why i wasnt pulling higher numbers due to the silencer in the muffler. the tune was great and i felt a decent gain and drove it for a few days without a glitch but when i got to the San Fransico the engine randomly shut off a few times during freeway driving and threw a check light. i pulled over and shut the car off and investigated to see any problems. i found nothing, no smoke, oil or water and no fire. i started the car back up and it ran fine again, like nothing ever happend. sometime after that the engine would go into a strange sputter under normal driving and throw a CEL. i became pissed and irritated i just kept driving but pressed the clutch and turned the key to off and then back on to see what would happen, no surprise it ran like normal again. in the week or so time i drove the car after the dyno tune the car experienced these sputter/shut off symthoms about 6 or 7 times. any ideas what this is? i want answers not bashing please, i know its a greddy kit so STFU, it all we can do in cali to avoid the fuzz.

prior to the dyno tune, when shaun plugged in his computer to my emange ultimate the car didnt want to start. we pulled the complete harness and did a continuity test and everything was good, he said the some sensors werent registering on his diagnosis. after wasted time i plugged everything in and unplugged his computer to the unit and poof it ####en started and we were able to dyno tune from there. im not saying its shauns fault or his computer, i think its just the emanage ultimate is a ultimate POS and i think the harness may also be but i need to know why it is this like this i only want to keep it to for smogging purposes other than that i plan on running a AEM FIC or EMS if i can afford it. does anyone know if altering(tuning) the kit tuned map for the emanage ultimate will cause issues when going up for smog? this december will be my first time to smog my car since i bought it.

everything stated here is what i remember and i cannot do anything to check my car now since im not in the states right now, im in tokyo b*tches but i will be back late november for 10 days of vacation and i will need to smog and retune my car in that time frame on top of my R&R.

 

did you ever scan the CEL to see what it was? that would be a great place to start instead of just restarting the engine.

 

its not really an option while im driving, i dont have the scan tool. i think when we did it at Church's, shaun said the trouble code was for a sensor wasnt getting a signal or was bad but after i unplugged the computer to the EMU it went away. i know all of that was risky but i didnt have time nor money to keep her down at anyones shop so i took the chance with the "reset" option and it works everytime. when i come back to cali this november i plan to look into it more in detail. i also am considering a boomslang harness, if necessary.

 

If I was reading right, you want to know if the swapping of the Emanage for an AEM unit would effect smog readings? If that is the question, I'm curious to know this too!

 

im fully aware of that, thank you. i was going to keep the EMU and just pop it in when i need smog. do you have any info on smogging this kit, what more my problem?

"i only want to keep it to for smogging purposes other than that i plan on running a AEM FIC or EMS if i can afford it."

 

you don't need to scan the CEL while you are driving. When you stop and you still have the CEL, scan it and find out what the problem is.

Also, resetting it because it works every time is a bad reason. When you say 'every time' that means it happens repeatedly right? That means it' something that takes the ECU to learn before it pops the CEL, doesn't mean the problem is going way every time you reset your ecu.

anyway, you mentioned the sputtering and CEL before the tune, but only sputtering after the tune. Is the CEL is still popping up right now? If so, scan it and diagnose it. Don't keep resetting it.

 

Only time I have ever seen a ULT have the same symptoms you are talking about is when using non resistor spark plugs or when the plug jumper setting was set at 12Volts.

Check the plugs for resistors and verify the plug gap.

Check you plug jumper setting and see if it is on 12 Volts vs 5 volts.

Primary plug voltage is 12 volts to the coil but the voltage trigger is 5 volts.



FYI don’t reinstall the plugs once you pull them out. You must replace them due to the crush washer.

You would be surprised how many times I hear about people reinstalling old plugs that have all ready TQ them down once.

 

Get a better tune than a "church" tune.

Do you have the greddy harness?
its very easy to modify it to have vtec control.

 

ummm ok? as i mentioned before, i am not in the states right now, i am in tokyo and will be coming back for vacation this december. the only reason i had to do the "reset thing" was i didnt have time to get stuck in the mid of the night anywhere in cali, i was on a short vacation and traveling a lot. i know it was wrong of me but i had to roll the dice on this one, i diagnosed as best as i could on the spot and yes i did fail to have a proper diagnosis when possible. the CEL never stayed on, it only appeared when the problem happened then went away after i did a restart. the kit installed was all the parts that it came with, i havent used anything other what was supplied and mentioned to buy from the dealership. i am using the NGK copper plugs or something that was recommended on one one of the forums by many but i also have another set of those and a set of greddy iso 8s or 6s, i dont remember but i know they costed a lot.

whats wrong with Church's tune? i thought they were really good and helpful, who would you recommend? i mean, shawn did my car and he owns 2 or more really bad ass S2Ks and has done tons of S2Ks from what ive heard.

shes my baby and i dont get much time to drive or work on her. ive owned her for about 2 years now but have only driven the car less then 50 days and in that 5 were spent on installing every part ive added and getting the the turbo kit and suspension tuned.

im not rich so dont go telling me to buy a bunch of s**t i cant afford either. shes only got about 56k miles on her, maybe 3k with the kit on.

 

CEL not staying set another indication that nonresistor spark plugs are installed.


My recommendation for resistor plugs one step colder then stock
NGK 2668 (BKR8EIX) Iridium plug

If you want to use a copper plug
A lot cheaper if you want to change them out at every oil change or after a full day of racing.


NGK BKR8E-11used in honda boats (also heat range 8 but copper)

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda...8079-5814E.html

OR

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ho...079-5814E.html