I have a couple of questions/thoughts that I wanted to get some feedback on. But before I start I want to let everyone know what I have and what I am looking for:

01 AP1 with 65,XXX miles

AFI Twinscroll Turbo Kit
Garrett GT3582R
3" Exhaust
Koyo Radiator
1000cc IDs
Mugen Thermostat
Spoon Fan Switch
Samco Radiator Hoses
BRMS Catchcan
Comp Clutch Stage 2
MAC Boost Solenoid

I use AMSOIL 10W-40 Full Synthetic

Tuning will be done via KPRO

I am looking for 450-475 whp. I do not want to go over 13-14 PSI and I would like this to be reliable. I am not going to daily drive it but I do not want to have any big issues. Also I am not going to beat the living shit out of my car. It will rarely see 9K, I don't race, I just want it for spirited driving, and maybe the occasional beating of a Camaro or Mustang.

So here are the questions:

Should I look into doing an InlinePro 3mm headgasket? How hard is it/how long will it take? I am very experienced with cars and have multiple s2k owners in the area with great knowledge who I am sure would be more than willing to help. Are there any pitfalls with doing the headgasket?

If I choose to do a headgasket I am going to replace the head bolts but I would like to upgrade to head studs. Will ARP headstuds work with the InlinePro 3mm headgasket? I thought that I read that the ARP headstuds didn't work that well with thicker headgaskets but I am not sure.

And finally, if I am going to have the head off I want to change out the retainers since they are notorious for failing on AP1s. Can I change the retainers without disassembling a lot of the head? Should I go aftermarket or stock? If aftermarket which brand? Also would I need to get the new cotter keys/locks for the retainers?

If I do this my budget is going to be around $500, so please keep that in mind.
Here is how I figure it will break down:
$325-Headgasket
$125-ARP Headstuds
$50-OEM AP2 Retainers

Also please let me know if you think my goals are possible without doing any of this.

Please leave any information/experiences. Any and all help is very appreciated.

 

Oh and water/meth injection is not an option. I don't want to have to run lines/wire up something that has potential to go wrong and cause catostrophic failure.

 

I think the 35r might be overkill for your power goals - might want to consider swapping for a 30r, especially if you don't plan to rev the car out a lot.

Definitely pick up some Ap2 retainers and new valve seals, it's a cheap mod and as you know the ap1's are notorious for being fragile.

Consult your tuner in regards to the headgasket. I wanted 500 on pump and mine told me that the HG would be the way to go. While I had the head off, I replaced the oem head bolts with brand new ones.

If you went with the HG, you could keep your 35r and make even more power

 

Can you point out the source of this rumour?

If not, it's just that. A rumour.

ARP studs work fine with thicker headgaskets.

 

No I just thought that I read that somewhere on here but I couldn't find where exactly.

 

Well I was told that the 35R will spool almost as fast as a 30R but will flow better.

Mase will be tuning my car.

Can you swap over to AP2 retainers without removing the head? I forgot to add this question earlier.

 

^yes you can but you will have to pressurize the cylinder one at a time while you take a valvespring tool and remove the keepers. If you dont pressureize the cylider then you valve will drop and you will have to take the head off the get it back out. Its very doable though.

 

You may not have to pressurize the cylinder to do the retainers. Couldnt you just put that piston you are working on at TDC and if the valve does drop, it wouldnt go very far, maybe a 1/2" drop and you could still get ahold of it without pulling the head? This seems like a doable way to do it but i'm not too sure.

 

If I pull the head can I leave the intake manifold and turbo manifold on?

I am definently thinking about doing to AP2 retainers just for reassurance.

 

Your mind is playing tricks on you.