teamvalorracing

So, i recall when i was turbo, i was on the dyno and my tuner mentioned "higher intake temps than he would like". well, since i have sold the kit and gone SC.

Before i went SC, i read numerous numerous threads, posts, and status updates about the dreaded "heat soak issues with a SC.

So, before i let that rat bastard "heat soak" crawl under my hood with the SC kit, i thought i would head it off by building a large heat exchanger for the new stage 2 sos kit. So, got it all setup, headed to the dyno. made 350/230 at 9 psi on a mustang dyno. the coolant temps never got over 198, but my tuner mentioned the same issue of "higher intake temps than he would like." they were at 120-133.

i touched the intake manifold, hot as piss. i was like damn it man! the big heat exchanger didnt do shit. but then i touched the after cooler, and the thing was body temp. i was like, WTF?

so i have spent the last 3 weeks obsessing over figuring this shit out. i added a duct to the intake, messed with cooling panels, all sorts of stuff.

did some data logging:
for about the first 20 mins of driving, while cruising, temps stay around 109.
after driving for 30 or so and hitting mild city traffic, temps will climb to 135.
as soon as i get to 3rd or 4th, temps are already back to 120.
if i go full throttle for some 3rd to 4th fun, temps drop to 112-115. then start to rise one i stop.

so, conclusion:
1.mishimoto with spal fans are working like a champ as my temps have never hit over 200(99%of the time they are between 192-196) while driving in the heat of the FL afternoon.
2.Mashing it will drop my temps CONSIDERABLY, so the SC and heat exchanger and AC are actually cooling the air going into the engine.
3. I rigged a standalone IAT sensor i used on my old rx7 to the extra port on the AC where the air pump fitting would go, and the temps were barely 7-8 degrees over ambient temps... so about 90 degrees after 30 mins of driving. but once it is trapped in the aluminum oven, all those cooling efforts are f@#king wasted.

-what does that mean?
the damn intake is being soaked by the F-in head and the cold air being drawn in is the only thing dropping temps when i dip into the throttle.

hondata IMG? no way. sooooo many threads of them warping and leaking coolant. not a reasonable solution by any means.

so what do we have guys? is this just what we get?

what are you guys with FI doing? have you found any tricks?

i am about to setup a water mist sprayer system like STI's have for my damn IM because this is just sad.

some have said, "move the IAT sensor and you will see cooler readings." yes, but thats just tricking yourself and the ECU as the Manifold is still hot as fuhk.


So, chime in gents. we need to put an end to these heat transfer shenanigans!

japhethwar

Water/Meth injection is the only real solution. I have the hondata gasket and I spray 50/50 water meth and the intake will be cold to the touch after making 1-5 gear pulls. Lot of misinformation about the hondata gaskets. Properly installed they work just fine. I've been using the same one for 5 years now without a single issue. They don't really help with the temps that much though. More of a support piece than a solution. My iat sensor is in the charge pipe right before the meth nozzle, but I have yet to see IATs more than 10 degree's above ambiant in any of my logs. Obviously i'm not reading the actual temperature of the intake manifold, but the air going in is usually nice and cool. It really doesn't matter anyway, as soon as I hit 5psi the meth starts spraying and the manifold goes to arctic mode. I am a firm believer in the benefits of meth injection. Im at 18psi now on pump gas and with more timing than I was running at 12 without the meth. Even if you don't up the boost it will work wonders for your iat problems. Plus its relatively cheap and simple to install.

redboost10

I've never had a problem with the plastic intake gaskets. P2r makes one at a better price than hondata. Been using mine for two years

teamvalorracing

Does anyone with one of those heatwhield gaskets actually have any comparison data of before and after? Im not sold on them yet since there are too many failure posts, threads, etc. But i just want to see if they really helped and if so, how much?

D1sclaimer

I helped a friend yank this off his s2000 a few weeks ago. You can see the coolant/water hole on the bottom left is oval shaped and should be round. It was letting a lot of coolant out. A stock intake gasket fixed it. This is a real Hondata gasket.

JoeyBalls

I was going to say, it's a very simple soultion WATER injection. My 1/4 runs were seeing 75F IAT in 5th gear, so basically car was WOT for 12 seconds and the intake was cool to the touch (this was on an 80F day. This was also with the smallest nozzle injectin straight water. I would get Water/Meth injection kit and be done with it. I would not tune based on the injection, just use it on top of your current tune.

When I was using 70% Meth to water the intake would be COLD, I don't mean like room temp, it would be cold after pulls on the dyno. Laten heat of evaporation does wonders my friend

Deception

Correct me if Im wrong, but just because the IAT sensor reads high when its in the manifold it doesnt mean the air is actually that hot?
If the manifold is say 120 degrees & you have 70 degree air passing through it, how much is the temp really going to rise for the 1/2 second it takes to get into the motor?

Dan1987

Yeah to be honest the heat transfer from manifold to the intake air is going to be pretty minimal.. For example, if your at 10psi of boost at 9krpm then air is flowing through your manifold at around 210 litres/sec (122mph through the throttle body). For a supercharger the best ways to keep temps down is to make sure your engine rpms are as low as possilbe when cruising so your blow is spinning slower > resulting in a lower pressure (and therefore temp within the charge pipes). make a good CAI so your pulling in air purely from outisde the car (I use one of the ducts in the bumper).
I also disconnected my headlight washer jets and positioned a couple of small jets above the intercooler so when I spray my windscreen washers it sprays onto my intercooler aswell.

redboost10

Just port it out a bit

RAIN H8R

You could modify the intake manifold so the coolant port is not fully connected to the runner on cyl 4. You could run a vented hood. Run a sheet metal intake manifold that would dissipate the heat faster than the stock cast aluminum manifold.

Thats all I can think of. I notice the same issue and I have a custom CAI on my sos kit, with the upgraded heat exchanger.