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HELP: Ptuning oil scavening pump not turning on :-(

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Old 05-22-2017, 07:49 AM
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Default HELP: Ptuning oil scavening pump not turning on :-(

Forced induction brethren I need your help:

I am finishing up an install of the ptuning kit on my 2007 ap2 and I have hit a problem. I cannot for the life of me get the oil scavenging pump to come ON like it is supposed to or at all period. I don’t know what in God’s name is wrong but I need to get this figured out peacefully *(because the car has been down forever and I just want to drive it already).

I know what the pump sounds like when it is ON because I tried energizing the pump with a 12 volt source to rule out the possibility of a dead pump.

Here are some trouble shooting thing I have done:
-tested the pump w/ 12V source (and the pump works)
-tried a new hella relay that is identical to the kit’s relay *(Pump will won’t turn on)
-tried multiple 12V sources on the car *(1. The ptuning recommended condenser fan relay spot, and 2. The 12V – ignition AUX port in the under dash fuse box location)
-tried a 12V source to the trigger wire of the oil pump relay (and the relay makes noise – thanks KingTut)

I spoke with KingTut and he told me maybe my oil pressure sensor is not getting enough signal (oil pressure reading) with its location in my oil distribution manifold.

I want to point out some weird phenomena that is occurring:
-when I tried to start the car with the trigger wire from the oil scavenging pump hooked up to the stock oil pressure sensor + the stock oil pressure sensor wire I get an oil light illuminated ON, on my dash (as in its not happy electrically).
-when I took the trigger wire for the oil scavenging pump OFF of the stock oil pressure sending unit, and just had the stock wire going to the oil pressure sensor (the light was NOT illuminated on my dash).

My questions now:
1) What the hell is going on? I am decently electrically inclined and something is very wrong.
2) Am I missing something really basic in the wiring of this pump?
3) I tried checking for blown fuses with no luck finding anything blown.
4) My car was perfect electrically (when it was running NA)
5) Someone please help so I can finish my car :-(

Here is where my oil pressure sensor is located, is this a bad spot?
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Here is the diagram I found from another thread:

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Here is the underdash fuse box location I referenced as well *(Port C)

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Last edited by R00567; 05-22-2017 at 08:02 AM.
Old 05-22-2017, 08:23 AM
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maybe im stupid for thinking this... but when you tested the pump to verify it wasnt dead did you use all the wiring required to connect it in the car? not just connected a 12v source with another set of wires? if not, maybe theres something wrong with the wiring supplied as in a loose wire or crimped spot...
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Old 05-22-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Memo6453
maybe im stupid for thinking this... but when you tested the pump to verify it wasnt dead did you use all the wiring required to connect it in the car? not just connected a 12v source with another set of wires? if not, maybe theres something wrong with the wiring supplied as in a loose wire or crimped spot...
dude thats an awesome idea! i will try that and see if thats not the culprit. Its weird because when its just the stock wire on the oil pressure sensor i dont have my oil light come on my dash, but when i have the trigger on the pump attached to the oil pressure sensor + the stock wire, the oil light appears on my car's dash?
Old 05-22-2017, 09:05 AM
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If u want to retain the stock in dash warning light, I think u need two sensors, one with stock wire and then other for pump. I only say this cuz I once replaced my stock sensor with a two prong 1 to have a gauge and also wanted to retain the warning light and have a gauge but no matter which I put it on it didn't work it just came on and blinked n stuff.

Those 1 prong sensors only work for a specific rating as well. So if it's over for ex. 10psi the light goes off, if it's under 10psi it comes on. Not sure how there circuits work tho. Having only 1 wire, I'm guessing it's completed via ecu and then gets sent back to dash.

I wouldn't worry to much about the in dash portion. Like I said it's a weird circuit and doesn't like spliced stuff or to work in tandem with something else. Try to figure out how the sensor is gonna turn that relay on.
Old 05-22-2017, 09:20 AM
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If a 12v battery activates the relay, then use a mulitmeter to check if there is 12v= on the wire that feeds the pump. (it should)
Personally I don't think that the oil pressure switch is strong enough to activate a relay. It gives a weak signal.
I think that it was designed to make the pump work as soon as the engine is running... can't you better use a strong 12v= signal such as the voltage regulator after the alternator?
Old 05-22-2017, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by MorngWoodStewie
If u want to retain the stock in dash warning light, I think u need two sensors, one with stock wire and then other for pump. I only say this cuz I once replaced my stock sensor with a two prong 1 to have a gauge and also wanted to retain the warning light and have a gauge but no matter which I put it on it didn't work it just came on and blinked n stuff.

Those 1 prong sensors only work for a specific rating as well. So if it's over for ex. 10psi the light goes off, if it's under 10psi it comes on. Not sure how there circuits work tho. Having only 1 wire, I'm guessing it's completed via ecu and then gets sent back to dash.

I wouldn't worry to much about the in dash portion. Like I said it's a weird circuit and doesn't like spliced stuff or to work in tandem with something else. Try to figure out how the sensor is gonna turn that relay on.
Dude, thank you so much for the heads up!

I was scratching my head saying seriously wtf is going on??? Now that I know that is the case I'll try and get another sensor to be dedicated for the oil scavenging pump :-)
Old 05-22-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaspah
If a 12v battery activates the relay, then use a mulitmeter to check if there is 12v= on the wire that feeds the pump. (it should)
Personally I don't think that the oil pressure switch is strong enough to activate a relay. It gives a weak signal.
I think that it was designed to make the pump work as soon as the engine is running... can't you better use a strong 12v= signal such as the voltage regulator after the alternator?
This is also a good idea that I will investigate and let you know. Thanks for the heads up!!
Old 05-23-2017, 04:48 AM
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I think there is something weird going on with your oil pressure sensor. I've installed the kit in three different cars with three different oil pressure sensors and never had any issues. Both the OEM ring terminal and the PTUNING ring terminal go on the end of the OEM oil pressure sensor and get tightened down by the 7mm bolt on the end of the sensor and the pump should turn on as soon as you key the ignition. I did have it installed in the PTUNING Oil Distribution Block at one point and it still triggered the pump, but I don't remember if the pump turned on as soon I keyed the ignition.

Last edited by King Tut; 05-23-2017 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 05-23-2017, 05:53 AM
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I posted this in another thread last year.....it may help with your issue:

Check to see if the oil scavenging pump is working. If you remove the scavenging pump trigger wire going to the stock oil pressure sensor and then turn the ignition to key on engine off, the scavenging pump should run ( doing this just makes it easier to hear the pump run as opposed to listening to it with the engine running).

I was having a similar issue and found an intermittant electrical connection occurring at the plug to the oil scavenging pump. Cut that off and hard wired it in. (Long story short I had to buy a new turbo because of this)

I also recently "permanently" disconnected the trigger wire going to the scavenging pump so that I can hear it run everytime just before I start the engine.

Also If the pump is not running check to see if you blew the heater control, cooling fan relay fuse (no. 21 in the interior fuse box (under the dash)). The previous sentence may depend on which iteration of the kit that you have. I have the very first version, I believe the last version they came out with they had the scavenging pump pull power from elsewhere (anyone with the latest version of the kit like to chime in?). If you do have the earlier version you may want to upgrade the no. 21 under dash fuse from a 7.5amp to a 20 amp as was advised to me by PTuning.

Hope that helps
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:14 AM
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For some reason, between testing the pump with the wire connected to the OEM sensor and not connected to it, the pump "sounded" stronger without being connected to the sensor.

Now I will listen for the pump to turn on (almost) everytime I have the key on, engine off prior to starting the car. I am not worried about the "dummy oil light" because if the pump doesn't work you will get huge plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe (that's the same as the dummy light for me). If that happens just shut the car down and figure out the problem. Oil leaking into the turbine/compressor for a SHORT period will NOT harm the turbo. These turbos don't have "seals" they have piston rings that do a similar job as the ones in our engines. Ask me how I know!

Since I wired it way I have stated above I have not had a single problem!
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