Here we go again
Originally Posted by siadam,Sep 16 2010, 10:55 PM
lol.
Personaly if I had to do it over again, I should have kept my 30r and maxed it out.
550whp on the street w/a meth kit would be killer imo.
Live/learn.
Personaly if I had to do it over again, I should have kept my 30r and maxed it out.
550whp on the street w/a meth kit would be killer imo.
Live/learn.
You gave me inspiration to do just that on Ptuning's kit w/ GT30r and stock HG.
Only am shooting for just a little above 500whp
My fear is the returnless fuel system.
Would it be a good thing to lose the squirters on big power stock engines also since the stock engine has forged pistons or is it better to just leave them in? I always thought the squirters were needed because of the old 2 hole squirters causing problems and Honda switched to the 4 hole to combat this.
Originally Posted by Spoolin,Sep 17 2010, 01:56 AM
Would it be a good thing to lose the squirters on big power stock engines also since the stock engine has forged pistons or is it better to just leave them in? I always thought the squirters were needed because of the old 2 hole squirters causing problems and Honda switched to the 4 hole to combat this.
People say the stock pistons are forged, but they are not the same type of forging as a CP piston or other aftermarket piston. Just from looking @ them anyway.
Originally Posted by 1SlowSi,Sep 17 2010, 05:13 AM
Why get rid of the oil squirters to begin with? Its not like they are hindering your performance.
(quote from my cousin).
Plugging the squirters is done to provide more lubrication, not lose it, by increasing the oil pressure at the main and rod bearings. Like Adam said it will help keep your oil cooler also, there is no need to spray 200 degree oil on the bottom of the pistons and rods to help cool them in a forged motor. When you're quadrupling the stock output of a motor it's good to have a little higher oil pressure to absorb the shock on the journals, because you can't make the journals larger lol.
Plugging the squirters is done to provide more lubrication, not lose it, by increasing the oil pressure at the main and rod bearings. Like Adam said it will help keep your oil cooler also, there is no need to spray 200 degree oil on the bottom of the pistons and rods to help cool them in a forged motor. When you're quadrupling the stock output of a motor it's good to have a little higher oil pressure to absorb the shock on the journals, because you can't make the journals larger lol.
Originally Posted by EternalLx,Sep 17 2010, 12:48 AM
Subscribed
You gave me inspiration to do just that on Ptuning's kit w/ GT30r and stock HG.
Only am shooting for just a little above 500whp
My fear is the returnless fuel system.
You gave me inspiration to do just that on Ptuning's kit w/ GT30r and stock HG.
Only am shooting for just a little above 500whp
My fear is the returnless fuel system.
Originally Posted by 1SlowSi,Sep 17 2010, 05:13 AM
Why get rid of the oil squirters to begin with? Its not like they are hindering your performance.
There are soo many people making good power with the squirters in place. I dont see a reason to remove them especially if you are daily driving your car. Removing them does not increase your lubricatoin, your piston pin, and cylinder wall receive lubrication from the oil squirters. So any oil pressure you gain on the bottom end you, you will lose lubricatoin in outer areas.
Now if you are strictly drag racing then I can see the beneifit of less oil weight on the bottom of the piston/rod. I guess it all depends on what you plan on doing with the car.
My bearings need the oil more than the bottom of my pistons.. block em off.
the squirters are not there to lube anything, only "cool" the pistons.
how do you think "normal" motors get the pin and cylinder walls lubed?
it comes from the rod bearings.. that sprays onto the cylinder walls, then the oil control ring forces the oil on the cylinder wall through the holes in the piston to the wrist pin.
the squirters are not there to lube anything, only "cool" the pistons.
how do you think "normal" motors get the pin and cylinder walls lubed?
it comes from the rod bearings.. that sprays onto the cylinder walls, then the oil control ring forces the oil on the cylinder wall through the holes in the piston to the wrist pin.






