I think that you're running flashpro. If so, then can't you try to check what OBD codes are being generated?

 

Very good idea soulicious with the aemI can add resolution to the parts of my fuel map that I can't get strait with an interploated map I was getting issues but with the bov's vtec at 3300 rpm at 40% throttle and baffles have smoothed out my problems. I knew hondata I would be of more help as we are the only ones to do this other than sponsored race teams and you know there not coming off the answer also probably not running as much boost I just upped my rev limiters to around 8500 rpm see if I can get 14 psi now that Texas is heating up. Also going to be installing a dmax vent on my spare hood in the next week I will let you know if the extra cooling makes the problem worse . You know the old cool air is dense air therefor not as compressible thing. So right now my setup is the 4.5 '' thick treadstone 3'' pipe with all aluminum bends cold air 3.5 to 4'' with a green stuff filter with rain sock. Not as strait as yours but as close as I could get sos tb 70mm t1r twin sparrow with the baffles in 70MM test pipe and no hesitation or any weirdness. That being said I had to do lots of logging in normal and aggressive driving and build all the maps accordingly to keep the car from going lean in a reducing apex or fat on part throttle setting up for the hammering out of said apex so it's still a work in progress. Getting rid of the cracked oil pan baffle did wonders for the car no random knock retard making the car fall on its face I am at 17.5 timing at 14.5 @ 8500rpm car is very strong ridealongs are guessing 400 to 450 but I think that dude hasn't been in a 500+whp s my car wants to break my azenis loose in 3rd but the suspension and aero are doing there job. too bad where so far apart I would come and help you but not sure I would have enough tire in the rear to get there if I did I would have to get new ones to get home

 

Check out my fuel pump install i ran 10ga wire crimped and soldered to the factory pins along with increasing the pin bit force I still had the tools from working as a honda tech if i get below 3 bar on fuel and accelerate hard or corner hard the car falls on its face but that is normal as i have no surge tank. looking for some 8'' dia aluminum pipe right now ill mount it where the charcoal can sets now i have a spare 255 to hell with paying a 1000 dollars i will make my own

 

I doubt there were any. I would've expected one of the tuners to catch a code. I took the fuel pump out and went over the install again. Everything was fine. Went for a drive today and thought it dissappeared, but after a longer highway drive it came back. But now the car runs full lean whether im on or off the throttle...

I also noticed an exaust leak. Could that be related?

 

YES! if before o2 sensor. I had a small crack on the 2nd pipe at the head on my comptech 4-1 header and as small as it was it changed the tune a bit. i mounted it to a spare head and tiged it up. I can't get my car to idle below 1000 rpm without trickery I have replaced the intake gasket replaced and checked all vacuum sources but even with 10% iac opening it just wont go down there I don't know if its due to injector size or blower output. if I stab the throttle and let off it will go lean rich lean but not enough to cause hesitation.

 

Hesitation has gone away. Randomly.

It rained for 2 days, went for a cruise in the wet and I guess my filter and cai absorbed so much water that I hydrolocked my motor. It's wasn't too bad. Started it up, got home and was able to get it dried out and change the oil.

Now I'm driving home from work. Did a WOT 4th gear pull. And after stopping at a couple traffic lights my car stalls right before stopping again. I can seem to get it started again and don't know what it could be. Even if I try giving it throttle while starting it, it just dies.

Could this be the ect sensor on the intake manifold?

 

check the map sensor you may have moisture in it i found that the tuner i used before learning it didn't match my map and as soon as i changed it the car would stumble and die as i had to redo the fuel map as the map sensor changed all the map breakpoints. i mention this because water in the sensor would be like changing the load scalar which would cause this condition

 

What are you transient throttle conditions? that *might* have some bearing on the engine bog (in reference to your original problem of course, not your post-hydrolock symptoms)

 

It was the map sensor..

 

hmm I have the same problem that happens every now and then. Wonder if its the map sensor as well.