Hign Compression Vs. Low Comperssion
That is cutting it close and some may say it's not enough depending on what turbo kit you go with. Labor for a turbo kit and clutch install will hurt your budget. You will also need engine management, tuning, and incidentals along the way.
If you can swing it, build the bottom end rather than the headgasket route.
If you can swing it, build the bottom end rather than the headgasket route.
Just so you know, compression is compression. Whether you run 10 psi on 11:1 compression, 13 psi on 10:1 compression, or even 16 psi on 9:1 compression, you are going to end up with the same overall total engine compression of around 18.5:1 under boost. The biggest difference is where your turbo is efficient; low boost or high boost? And you will loose more torque the more you lower the engine compression before boost, so your torque curve will be different. Basically, the higher the compression on the engine before boost, the more low end torque you will have.
I am currently going to be running 10 psi on my stock 11:1 compression because I like the lower torque and my turbo is more efficient at lower boost.
I am currently going to be running 10 psi on my stock 11:1 compression because I like the lower torque and my turbo is more efficient at lower boost.
So I am not really sure what I should do then... I love HP but its really all about TQ.. So if its basically the same.. why should I build the bottom end instead of just adding a bigger head gasket??
Originally Posted by c_me_go,Aug 22 2006, 11:50 AM
So I am not really sure what I should do then... I love HP but its really all about TQ.. So if its basically the same.. why should I build the bottom end instead of just adding a bigger head gasket??
Well .. I was thinking of dropping the Compression to somewhere in the 9s.. I will also be buying a kit from you Cody.. So you tell me.. what is the best thing to do?? I have to buy new pistons and rods because i broke the OEM ones.. but my problem is which psitons and rods to buy??
Originally Posted by c_me_go,Aug 22 2006, 02:09 PM
Well .. I was thinking of dropping the Compression to somewhere in the 9s.. I will also be buying a kit from you Cody.. So you tell me.. what is the best thing to do?? I have to buy new pistons and rods because i broke the OEM ones.. but my problem is which psitons and rods to buy??
If you plan to go north of 400Hp, from everything I have researched, it's best to build the bottom end. Otherwise the factory forged internals should work well unless you find really creative ways to abuse them.
If you must rebuild due to a blown engine, I have heard Pauter rods and CP pistons are excellent. Don't forget the sleeves...
well I just finished talking to honda.. they told me that it is not under warrenty.. So I guess i will have to build the block from the bottom up...
(If you must rebuild due to a blown engine, I have heard Pauter rods and CP pistons are excellent. Don't forget the sleeves... )
I will keep that in mind when I am going to buy new pistons and rods.. Do you think its better to drop the compression??
Would like to have anywhere from 380 to 450 HP..
(If you must rebuild due to a blown engine, I have heard Pauter rods and CP pistons are excellent. Don't forget the sleeves... )
I will keep that in mind when I am going to buy new pistons and rods.. Do you think its better to drop the compression??
Would like to have anywhere from 380 to 450 HP..
Choosing compression ratio is very important and it depends on what you want to to do with your car. The aim is to get as high effective compression ratio as you can with minimal risk of detonation. Effective compression ratio is static compression ratio + boost. There is a formula for it on the web if you are keen.
If you want to use the car for daily use with low, to medium boost then a higher static compression ratio is ideal. This will give you more midrange power and more importantly good fuel economy.
If you want a high power, high boost, drivetrain killing engine then a low static CR ideal.
Do a search on s2ki for the piston options. From memory there are 8-10.5:1 ratio pistons available. There are higher ratio too but not ideal for FI purpose. IMHO the forged pistons are all very similar. There are only less than a handfull of places where the forged metal for the pistons came from. What you pay is for the brand, design and quality control.
Hope that help. It's a new learning curve with engine rebuild, but it's fun one
If you want to use the car for daily use with low, to medium boost then a higher static compression ratio is ideal. This will give you more midrange power and more importantly good fuel economy.
If you want a high power, high boost, drivetrain killing engine then a low static CR ideal.
Do a search on s2ki for the piston options. From memory there are 8-10.5:1 ratio pistons available. There are higher ratio too but not ideal for FI purpose. IMHO the forged pistons are all very similar. There are only less than a handfull of places where the forged metal for the pistons came from. What you pay is for the brand, design and quality control.
Hope that help. It's a new learning curve with engine rebuild, but it's fun one
Yes.. It does help alot... I am shooting for a compression raito around 9 or so.. Def less than 10... Its not my daily driver but I def dont want a track car either... I just want a high boost with lots of mid to high end power... Trying to make my engine bulllet proof...







