S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

I need Vortech help!

Old May 29, 2015 | 09:19 PM
  #21  
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I'm on a different setup running the SOS2 Novi 1200 but my ID1000s show 57% max duty at the full 8.3 psi of boost I hit. I'm at 426hp/265tq running a 4.0 in pulley. I would recommend running the ID1000s as my gas mileage has stayed the same under no or low load or cruising. If you got the PnP clips make sure they are snapped together well as DBW cars are finicky and may throw off cylinder misfire codes unless soldered together (per Jeff Evans at Evans Tuning). Took me a month to figure this out but I'm OK now and I never ended up soldering them.

BTW my goal too in setting up my s the way I did: "It's for street and I only want just a little boost in power for a car I can keep reliably for the next 30 years."
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Old May 30, 2015 | 05:18 AM
  #22  
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Awesome! Thanks for that feedback, did you also upgrade your fuel pump along with the injectors?
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 07:04 PM
  #23  
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Hey guys!

Continuing with my SC questions.
I want to replace all of my hoses and lines with braided black nylon to match what I've already got on the go for my catch can setup and other plumbing.
Does any one have any idea what fitting size of -AN would work for oil return to the timing chain cover? The instruction kit says to simply hose clamp onto this brass bit, but I'd much rather have an actual fitting installed. Has anyone threaded out the factory one and repalced with a male -AN? If so what thread pattern, and what fitting size did you use? Looks to be about a -8AN.

On that note, what size lines and fittings would you recommend for the after cooler? -10AN?

I need Vortech help!-ebpvlsm.png
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 08:02 PM
  #24  
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-8 for oil drain and -12 for aftercooler lines. Summit sells a 1/2 npt to -12 adapter. AN oil drain is possible but is a pain in the ass actually because there is so little room around the volute and how we have to clock it. Also how are you planning on draining to the timing chain cover when you have the blower bracket and belts in the way?
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 09:26 PM
  #25  
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Hey mate I have exactly the same kit as yours only a bigger blower V2 Ti (identical to Paxton 1500) I will read through your thread properly tonight.

So far I have purchased ID1300 injectors
Science of Speed air/water front cooler (same as yours)
Walbro 450 pump + SOS mounting kit + wiring kit

I'm currently getting custom pulleys made up at ASM in texas.

I need to replace all my lines too so it looks brand new.

Exciting times ahead for us.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 02:53 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tom153
-8 for oil drain and -12 for aftercooler lines. Summit sells a 1/2 npt to -12 adapter. AN oil drain is possible but is a pain in the ass actually because there is so little room around the volute and how we have to clock it. Also how are you planning on draining to the timing chain cover when you have the blower bracket and belts in the way?
^agreed. I also tried to replace the drain with fittings and it's more trouble than it's worth. With the bracket in place there is barely enough room just for the hose and clamp. You can still fit a braided line over it, just not with a proper fitting.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 08:19 AM
  #27  
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I'm planning on removing the volute to get it powder coated. That should make it a lite easier to get the fitting replaced for the drain line.

Do you guys really think doing braided lines and AN fittings for the after cooler and heat exchanger?

I read that the timing chain cover was the best option for rerun line. Are the brackets really that obstructing?
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 08:42 AM
  #28  
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Timing chain cover is best for top mount turbo set ups, but that won't work with a blower. I also don't know how you would be able to get a wrench onto a fitting if you drain to the oil pan, unless you put your drain on the passanger side corner.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 09:23 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Cirq
I'm planning on removing the volute to get it powder coated. That should make it a lite easier to get the fitting replaced for the drain line.

Do you guys really think doing braided lines and AN fittings for the after cooler and heat exchanger?

I read that the timing chain cover was the best option for rerun line. Are the brackets really that obstructing?
I don't think I was clear. You should try to fit the bracket on before spending money on those fittings and you will be able to see for yourself. As I mentioned, there's not much room with just the hose. When you use fittings, remember the inner diameter stays the same so you now have a larger outer diameter female-end fitting. It's been years since I messed with mine, so take this with a grain of salt, but I remember thinking if I ever needed to take the drain line off, I'd have to remove the bracket from the blower unit to be able to get to the female fitting. There is no room for you to turn a wrench on the fitting with the bracket on. It just wasn't worth it to put a fitting on I'd never see, and would actually make any type of service more difficult. I also vaguely remembering wondering if there was even room to fit both fittings. That bracket is made for a slip over hose. The fittings (make and female ends) may be a little longer than just that hose barb.

But may be your experience will be different. These are very old recollections.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 10:23 AM
  #30  
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No! Any feed back is a huge help. Perhaps I'll just do the fitting on the terminate end of the rerun line. Which sounds like it will end up being in the oil pan after all.

Is everyone taking their feed from the oil pressure sensor still? No issues with pressure loss or starvation to the blower?

When you guys do your oil change do you blow the lines out just to be safe?
How much does the SC increase my oil capacity? OEM is something like 4.8-4.9 litres. I buy jugs of Motul in 5L size, will that still be sufficient for an oil change after instal? Eventually I plan to get the Mishimoto oil cooler too which will further increase my capacity.
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