Do you think it's better to break in a built motor on stock injectors/na, or id2000s/turbo? I don't know that there is anything wrong with turbo during break in, just concerned about id2000s getting tuned on fresh motor (fear of fuel wash).

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I'd break it in at a fraction of load but setup the way it's intended to be run, essentially build it up with all the parts you'll be using but don't do heavy load pulls until the rings seat in nicely and do a few heat cycles. Most important is seating properly, the engine needs pretty heavy load to seat and honestly it happens faster than what most people think at least from what I've seen.

When I was done building and changed my injectors I towed the car to the dyno because I doubled my injector size thus I'd have a very rich condition so for the exact reason you said (washing cylinders dry) I didn't want to risk it. Mike (autowave) and I loaded it up at 50-70% load and did some pulls to break it in.

I had only run my car in three 10 second intervals prior to the dyno and that was just to be sure I had oil pressure and that it would physically run well enough to survive through the tune, I didn't feel safe running it any more than that.

 

Why is exhaust coming out of the wastegate though? Maybe I missed something here...... what leak is there then?

If the WG is overpowering the 6lb spring that means you have 6lbs of pressure in the manifold and the turbo should be hauling ass at that point, in fact it shouldn't even occur at idle or revving in neutral. This is why I'm wondering if I missed some information or something.

Tial WG shouldn't leak, I've tested em in water, they leak a few bubles of air but in comparison to the volume we're talking that's less than 1%.

Actually ID1000 have a great spray, that's why I went from RC injectors to ID instead. They're far superior injectors, the spray pattern is very respectable, there is the issue of how far into the ports they sit but that's debatable at this point until I see actual data showing different depths.

Optimal boost to accomplish what? The answer depends on your goals and what you'll use the car for etc. There's no point in turbo if you run less than 6-7lbs of boost IMO. So I guess at minimum I'd say 6lbs but at maximum it could be much higher depending on the application and the goals as stated.

EDIT> As DFW said, with ID injectors 1000cc is no problem, RC would be rough.

 

For the WG leak, you were careful not to pinch the bladder when assembled after the spring change right?

Also, is it hooked up right on the vacuum lines? Could you take a picture perhaps of your vac lines if you're not 100% sure it's setup properly?

Still even just slapped onto the manifold and snugged down there's no reason the WG should be opening so easily especially at idle, it shouldn't open until you're revving with some load on the motor and making some boost pressure.

Are you sure the WG is leaking even? Is air coming out the dump tube?

 

Ok, i guess i will just see if my tuner can break it in.

 

x2

 

That's what I'd say to do, don't take a chance driving around on your own, he can basemap it and then watch AFRs to make sure it's at least safe during the break-in.

Call and ask how much for some break-in time so they don't charge you up the ass, you need the car to idle up to temp then do a few pulls and have it sit at 60% load or so for a few min, then shut her down and let her cool as long as possible, at the end of the second cycle, I'd run her hard so long as there's no issues showing at that point.

 

I have a 60-1, id1000's, that I just got on the road 3 days ago. At idle the turbo spins,. I have a 10lb spring ( you need to hook up the boost to the bottom nipple on waste gate.
Anyway I tuned the car with my kpro, id1000's aeromotive regulator and ful pump before i put the turbo. so that I would have a good base map. The fuel pressure on the I'd is supposed to be high like 90 psi - whatever boost you run. Car idled great and made 215 all motor. now with the turbo in the transition into boost is so smooth and strong it's crazy and I have had many turbo Hondas. Going to dyno next week to finish tweaking it

 

The WG bottom nipple should preferably go to the turbo cold housing or somewhere direct to the charge pipe preferably but most anywhere on the vac lines will work, larger diameter is also preferred by the Tial WG.

 

Where did you get that? Most people just run stock fuel pressure.

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I got that right from the manufaturer paperwork that came with the injectors for maximum spray optimazation. I thought it was crazy too but car idles and runs like a champ. Best and smoothest fuel setup to date and I've had a few.