So I have my car ready to start taking the head off. I have read that it is easier taking the head off with the intake manifold still on. In the instructions it says to remove it. Any reomnedations would be great.

Also I have the directions from "alldata" and it doesn't show any specific way to remove the rocker assembly.. Is there specific pattern to follow or can I just start removing them?

I am using ARP studs to hold it down when back in. I know it is very critical to have the surfaces very clean. Is there anything else I should pay certain attention to?

I am also having a hard time roving the water hose from the head.. there are 2 bolts.. i got the top one, but the bottom one is a PITA to get at.. Hopefully ill be able to get it tonight.

But like I said. Any little tips or recomnedations would be greatly appreciated..

 

from what I have read many people do not use ARP headstuds with the 3mm headgaskets, they stick to the OEM ones I believe it's more reliable? I may be wrong tho.

 

i found removing the head w/ intake manifold still attached easiest for me

 

So I got to the point where i nee to remove the time chain tensioner and apparently they gave me the wrong size bolt. So I am SOL for tonight. Im gonna try and find the bolt tomorrow and go from there.

 

And from wha i have read they both work fine. I emailed inline pro to see what they suggested and they said both work equally good. I just need to make sure to torque them to the proper spec.

 

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=776294
check out that quick discussion I found, was looking at it earlier since I am pulling my head tomarrow also and replacing my 3mm headgasket and whatever else needs replacing

 

Yeah, don't!

Just thought I would get in before all the OEM headgasket fanbois.

Seriously, only listen to opinions backed up by facts and first hand experience. I had a 3mm gasket and ARP studs and blew the headgasket. All the anti-ARP guys took this as evidence that the ARP studs were no good. All the OEM fanbois took it as proof that the 3mm headgasket was useless.

Turned out to be a tuning problem.

I'm now running a SCE 2.4mm gasket (3mm wasn't available) and ARP studs and a new tune and doing just fine!

 

I got the 2mm SCE with stock bolts and no problem here also.

AS far as the TCT removal/install goes, you dont need that stupid bolt. Just unbolt the tensioner and take it out. Be sure not to loose anything.
Then you can repin the tensioner back by hand. (Ive done it a few times now).

 

Ahh but to answer your actual questions:

The rocker assembly is a complicated assembly. Just loosen the 10 bolts in a similar pattern to the head bolts. The manual prescribes a crisscross pattern working from the outside in. I use a spiral pattern. I loosen off 1/2 a turn 1, then 2, followed by 10 and 9. Then 3 and 4 and 8 and 7, then 5 and 6. Repeat to loosen them all and remove.

Remove the cam caps and cams (may require judicious use of rubber mallet).

Now comes the rocker assembly. The trick is to hold them together with rubber bands. I use 4 big ones stretched over cylinder 1 and 2 intake rockers, 1 and 2 exhaust, 3 and 4 intake and 3 and 4 exhaust. This keeps all the bits of the VTEC assembly together. Then, wedge up the assembly and take off in one go. May require the rubber mallet and a screwdriver.

 

With the ARP studs, just make sure you follow the directions that come with them. And make sure the threads, washers and underside of the bolts are adequately lubricated.