My thoughts exactly. You can't get the FB studs in without at least boring the holes in the head out to 1/2" and about 1" down to get the threads to clear. I sure hope you didn't do this with the head on.....

 

My car is done 1x1 method but it's an EVO not an S2000. it's pretty common in the 4g63 world. Does he have an S2000 or a different car? You can do it this way but there is a lot better ways to do it.. like pulling the head off Lol.

fwiw my car has been like this for almost 6 years.

it doesn't really take that long to pull the head on an s2000. if it were my own car i would pull the head and do it the right way.

 

he has a s2000. so if i go ahead and do springs and retainers, wouldn't it just seem logical to replace the valves and guides? now its all adding up!! damnit looks like itll be spring by the time i get it all done now

 

My thoughts exactly. You can't get the FB studs in without at least boring the holes in the head out to 1/2" and about 1" down to get the threads to clear. I sure hope you didn't do this with the head on.....
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Hmph. I had my tuner order the h11 fbm studs I am pretty sure ?? Maybe i was on acid and they weren't ? There is no possible way that those would fit with the head on ?

 

Can it be done, sure. But why would you? Your leaving yourself vulnerable to the mind game question of "did it work right?" Why leave that moment of doubt in your brain should anything become problematic in the future. Just take the head off, its alot more work but it is worth it. Youll need valves a little north of 700whp anyways so do those while your at it. Plus an inspection of the engine is always nice to do.

Usually when you pull to head coolant and oil mix and go down the thread holes for the head studs. To avoid issue I always use "q-tips" to soak up any liquid in the bottom of the thread hole. This avoids hydrolocking the head studs which results in improperly torqued studs/nuts

I would think the odds of that happening when doing one at a time is near impossible. I would at the very least check for fluids in the thread hole if you do it.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

 

Just talked to Passman (Matt). Said you don't have to have it bored out. So as long as I'm not crazy or my car is f@#ked we are good lol. You would think that I woulda had issues by now.

 

the only way its possible to i install fbm studs with out drilling the head is to have the head on the block and go through the head with the studs, u cant put the studs in the block then put the head on like u should, i would stay away from this method bc its hard to tell if the stud is seated all the way, its the head side threads on the fbm studs that are too thick to pass through the head holes, the middle section of the stud and the block side threads go through the head just fine

 

Exactly! You won't be able to get the studs fully seated into the block if you don't bore the head holes out to 1/2" and about 1" deep. Which probably means his studs were tightened until the nut side threads hit the head and they assumed the studs bottomed in the block, when they clearly didn't. Not a good thing at all.

 

Well hmph. Clearly I wouldn't use this method with the fbm studs. I don't ever remember reading this anywhere though.

Problem I have, is that I don't have any problems YET lol. 6k miles later car still runs good as ever

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead real quick. Obviously I should have had the head machined. For gods unknown reason I never was aware I had to machine the head.

Who wants to give me a succession rate or of this going wrong here lol. Because like I said. I have beat the shit out of this car on 23-25 lbs for the past 6k miles. So what are the odds of things going wrong now later on ?

I have no problem pulling the head if the gasket pops or something and then machining it. But I'm just looking for 2c here of "well if you beat the car and had it tuned 2 times since so it's probably fine"