I basically had this same problem and talked to ya from IP about it. He told me that it could be the cheap radiator cap on my koyo radiator leaking air into the system under hard driving and caused an air pocket. He told me to first change the cap to one from koyo and rebleed the system with the front of the car in the air. If that doesnt work, it could be a stuck closed thermostat.

 

Some bad news, I did find some milky residue on my oil cap. This is terrible. Im sure my HG is damaged, but maybe a leak down test will give me the proper results.

 

I PMD you this afternoon, but if you are at 10.5psi then you really do not need a 2mm HG, unless you want to up the boost more, I would get a stock HG (if that really is the problem) and retune your Krpo for the higher compression. Again, it depends if your goal is higher boost pressure. Good luck

 

Well my next goal will be a leak down test. Hopefully I can get to it by the weekend. Although tomorrow is going to be nice. I have read that on the s.o.s. that they recommend a headgasket on a smaller pulley, but I have seen many builds here where many people do not have them under 400whp as long as they have a good tune. I may go back to a stock one to get that higher compression. If I cannot find the time to do it myself, I may have to take it to a shop to get it done.

Daryl, thanks for recommending me that shop in Burr Ridge. That is not to far from me. I will try and get ahold of them for some questions. Thanks

I may do an oil change, t-stat change and bleed the coolant lines first and take it for an easy drive to see if I get any more heating up. I do notice that my fans do not come on. The car only warmed up to about 6 bars on my temp gauge after about 15 min. Also the fans do not turn on when i hit the A/C. Shouldn't they automatically turn on with the A/C on?

 

The fans may cycle with the A/C on, not every manufacturer runs the fan non stop with air conditioning. Several manufacturers run a reverse pressure switch that cycles the fan on and off depending on the head pressure in the A/C system. It's been a long time since I did any A/C work on a honda, so I can't be sure one way or the other. (I do commercial A/C work for a living, and have done quite a few automotive A/C systems as side work)

You don't really need the thick headgasket, especially with a centrifugal blower. The same rules that cause people to run window switches for nitrous applications also apply to boost. The higher the RPM, the more boost you can run because there's less and less time for the air to get into the cylinder. It wouldn't bother me in the least to run 16-18 psi at redline with a centrifugal on a stock headgasket/bottom end, assuming I could find a centrifugal that would flow that much...

 

Well I just did a compression test and my results were pretty good. All cylinders were between 185-190. I havent got a leak down tester yet, so no results there.

I still cannot get the car to warm up the same as it did. The car warms but never gets hot. heat works, both lower and upper radiator hoses are warm, no leaks.

I am going to bleed the coolant, maybe I just had some air trapped in the lines

 

I bled the coolant lines one sunday and put a new rad cap on. I took it out on sunday for a short ride and yesterday to go to work for a mixed street/highway miles. Everything seems ok now. I did not drive it too hard though. I only took to about 6500 rpm max. Hopefully this fixed my problem.

Once I took off the bleeder caps, I did hear a big release of air come out. Although it did not take much liquid to top it off. Im keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for the input guys.

Joshua

 

Check your oil immediately. If it looks ANYTHING like this, tow it to the closest shop you trust. Also, check the underside of the oil fill cap for ANYTHING white-ish on the inside of it. If your stuff looks anything like below, your head gasket is blown (ANY tinge of white/green in the oil).
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry15405689

Also, check your heater function of the AC, and see if it is still working well.

High back pressure can be caused by a blown HG. It caused my radiator to crack.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry15107959

And the Check Engine Light does NOT mean maintenance! That is the "Mantenance Required" light. Completely different yellow light. Sensors DO click the Check Engine Light on! Like if you were overheating, blew the HG, and lost compression, for example...

Do a compression test and a pressure test of the coolant system. Those will run you $200 for both, if you pay retail at Honda. It may save you from blowing your motor, and a $3k+ rebuild/replacement. Money well worth it, IMO. Do NOT drive the car with coolant mixed oil. I made that mistake, and wore my bearings down to the point they had to be replaced. If its mixed, and oil change will not help. It will be mixed again within minutes with a completely blown HG...

John

 

My 05 runs about 8 bars w/the modifry ect @ N.O.T. also.

 

Well it seems I spoke to soon. Today as I was driving it started to overheat again. I turned it off let it cool down and tried to make it back home. I did this a few times and after about the third time I turned it off and restarted after a few minutes, I drove back home another 30 minutes without it raising up in temp.

If its not raining, tomorrow I will take off the oil cap to check it out. I did once and it looked a little like your cap John, it wasnt alot though. I thouht it may have been cause by condensation since I dont drive the car much. The other times I have checked, the cap was fine, no milky residue.

Im sure I took all the air out of the coolant system and I put a new rad cap on. I will check and see if it has some air tomorrow. If it does, I am sure it is my HG because I do not think there is any other way for air to get in my coolant lines.

I do have a t stat that I have to put on. I do not know why mine is not opening up. It was fine some days and not others. It seems to open when it wants to, unless air is getting into my coolant lines from somewhere. I will change the tstat too since it is the easier fix, but I have air or pressure in my coolant lines tomorow when I take off the cap, I am almost sure the HG is bad.

I have done a compression check and everything checked out fine, I will try and do a coolant pressure test to look for leaks