Nice numbers compared to what? Regardless of Dyno number comparisons, we know he would make 3-4psi more by ditching the fmic, and add an additional 30-40whp minimum but likely 50-60whp to what he has now. I think that would be nicer numbers.

 

this guy has consistently blown my mind with the times/traps he runs based on his HP. that being said, if he goes to the track and traps higher then he ever has, i bet he makes way more power then that DD is saying he does.

losing 4 psi, fine, but if the air is 30-40 degrees colder you gain power there. i know everyone hatges on FMIC for this car, but most centri blowers on other cars run FMIC no problem, and hks and rotrex are doing it.

aftercoolers suck to me, and i ran one. i hated it. works great for short spurts, long runs i am not a fan.

 

this guy has consistently blown my mind with the times/traps he runs based on his HP. that being said, if he goes to the track and traps higher then he ever has, i bet he makes way more power then that DD is saying he does.

losing 4 psi, fine, but if the air is 30-40 degrees colder you gain power there. i know everyone hatges on FMIC for this car, but most centri blowers on other cars run FMIC no problem, and hks and rotrex are doing it.

aftercoolers suck to me, and i ran one. i hated it. works great for short spurts, long runs i am not a fan.
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Word. I would like a FMIC for that very reason, but cant deal with the 3-4 psi loss... and wouldnt it also have a nasty lag introduced into it as well? I saw one of the sponsors makes one, but refuses to discount one out for testing. Very hard to just buy something like that without having it verified.

 

Yep FMIC suck period on SC cars, Your lucky to see 30 degree cooler temp over a proper Aftercooler anyway, and if you did that equates to 10 whopping hp(3hp per 10 degrees general rule) Hardly makes up for the 3-4 PSI loss, right? And yes you lose a noticable amount of throttle response as well which takes the fun out of the car. KW uses an fmic because their blowers produce more ait heat spinning at 100,000rpm vs a standard paxton/vortech. Rotrex blowers are also more efficient so it raises the loss threshold, remember what I said about determining efficiency thresholds? Well obviously KW felt it was a move that made more sense for their complete maxed out of the box kit, even though a good working aftercooler may still yield more overall power on their kit, just not as much. Fmic are best matched on turbo cars to maximize overall efficiency and safety, not a standard Centrifugal blower which is already challenged with efficiency by design.

 

this guy has consistently blown my mind with the times/traps he runs based on his HP. that being said, if he goes to the track and traps higher then he ever has, i bet he makes way more power then that DD is saying he does.


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Look forward to seeing the new times

 

Put more timing..! SC dont put much boost in the mjd rpm range and mostly the psi stays consistent up top so you can be a bit more agresive in tuning compared to a turbo car as you dont risk overboost. I will just set a/f at 11.5 across the board and put another degree. Take it to the track to see how well it performs.

 

It didn't make any more power with more timing, so he already found max best. Personally I like to aim for a more optimum, efficient burning afr, in the upper 11's to mid 12's. Definitely want to utilize being able to run leaner afr earlier in the rpm when you can really get away with it on a supercharged car, especially before vtec engagement. As boost increases, so can your fuel to air ratio. Just dumping a set fuel rate throughout the entire rpm because it sounds good doesn't really maximize its efficiency/performance, especially if its on the moderately rich side. Find lean best afr and then you can add a little fuel from there for safe measure if that makes you feel warm and fuzzy. But if you start losing power as you add some fuel, then your not really running at full efficiency and that means your engine is working harder then it has to and or your wasting money on gas, gumming up your sensors, or in severe conditions fuel washing cylinder bores/oil contamination.

...and I agree you can be more aggressive with the tune on an SC car vs a turbo, but ultimately your only going to make what the set up can make, finding out what that is, is the goal, and then choose to back off one notch for safety or not is a personal judgment call. Adding more fuel can aid as a cooling agent to help suppress some detonation, but its a patch job first and foremost and one that is used more frequently on turbo cars where Combustion temps are higher and therefore so is detonation tendency. Too much fuel can also cause pre ignition, so that's the pitfalls of using that approach as well. Again, lean best is what you want to aim for first.

 

i will be going back to the dyno this monday hopefully ,my dad is taking his stang.ill put it back on for 2-3 more runs with boost and a/f.while the car was on the dyno we did both increasing timing and removing fuel,and it make like 1 more hp.

 

Pull like 3 degrees for one run in boost. Just for shits and giggles.

 

If the shit blows I wont be giggling....lol

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