Awesome pic Chris. Why no more front lip?

Do you have any pics of your engine bay with the complete turbo kit?

 

So after returning home from the track and assuming that the reason I was seeing 2 to 3 less PSI was a boost leak, I tightened everything down and didn't find any improvement. The turbo was laggier according to the boost curve and not hitting the same peaks in the upper RPM range either. I then moved to the wastegate being the cause, so I finally pulled it off last week to find that I had really overheated it, but luckily the wastegate was still good and working properly with no damage to the diaphragm, BUT I had overheated the 7 psi spring inside and it was now acting like a 2 or 3 psi spring. It was actually 7mm shorter than the Turbosmart spring chart said it should be. I had Freddy @ PTUNING ship me a new 7 psi spring, and I installed it last night. I am back to the same boost curve I had prior to the track day. To protect the wastegate, I went ahead and wrapped my downpipe and dumptube with some PTP lava wrap.

I also got a Turbosmart boost tee and Hondata 4 bar MAP sensor finally, but the Hondata 4 bar MAP sensor was dead on arrival. I had to mail it back to Hondata and they overnighted me a new one. I haven't tried it yet, but I did notice that it has blue plastic from the housing covering a good portion of one of the pins, so I wonder if that was the issue with my original one not working. I will scrape the plastic off the pin and give it another shot and then start upping the boost. How many people have had issues with these Hondata MAP sensors?

 

I've been using my Hondat 4bar issue free for some time now. Sounds like you just got a faulty one.

 

You may want to put a NACA duct in your hood and then plumb the cool air into the general wastegate area. Nissan GT-R, Evo X, and WRX STI all pump cooling air into the turbo area. GT-R and Evo X use NACA ducts in the hood, the STI diverts air from the top mount IC scoop.

 

I thought about trying to plumb some cool air to the wastegate area, but there is very limited space between the firewall, frame rail, and PTUNING heat shield to try and get even a 1 inch diameter hose to the wastegate area. To give you an example, the wastegate can't come out through the top. I had to drop the entire downpipe just to get the wastegate out through the bottom.

 

This picture probably shows that area the best and this is before the heat shield that mounts with that bolt on the frame rail and then goes over the top of the manifold:

 

Bamp to show the latest version of the PTUNING turbo kit installed on my car.

 

is the GTX3076 worth it over the GT3076 for 93 pump and street use only? from what i have researched the gtx shines in higher boost applications ie. E85 or c16

i plan to be 100% pump gas on a 2007 s2k... also, do you recommend any parts that come on the kit to be beefed up or maybe swapped out for something else? i know you know this kit inside and out... and did you ever send out the ECU to Hondata, or did you just use a manual boost controller?

 

If you are going to use pump gas only then there is no need for the gtx version.

 

I agree with Daryl, but for an additional $400, you are getting a killer bargain for HP potential, especially with the newly released GTX Gen 2 turbochargers. Not to mention resale value will be higher with a GTX turbo vs a standard GT turbo.