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KraftWerks C38 Supercharger Kit FAQ Thread

 
Old 09-19-2015, 02:08 PM
  #21  
 
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^ i believe i have seen it mentioned these Exedy "oem" replacement clutches only last about 20k miles and arent good quality. if you can swing it id go with what works like the SOS clutch, or what i have for the kit. ACT Pp H021 with oem everything. lots of threads about these setups.
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Old 09-20-2015, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Memo6453 View Post
Originally Posted by leo520' timestamp='1442329803' post='23747481
thank u.
my car is in the shop insatalling the kit now

do i need to inform my installer just to incase some problems or just let them handle the job?
thx

have they installed the kit before? if so, id let them be. If not, maybe bring up the points everyone has agreed on to help with the install. re-read Habits thread just incase. Good luck man... in for numbers!!! Car is a blast to drive!



-Mike
they didnt install thebkit before but the guy does my car for lot other stuffs n he does pretty good job,
reason y cause billman dont want to do this for me, so i had no choice locally.

anyway wish me luck.
thx
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:31 AM
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Question how are you guys verifying you have -91???
Isee that Kraftwerk has 2 different bypas valve.. For those running the the -91 and 95 pulley . which one are you using? I'm assuming they sent out the bigger one
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:29 AM
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^ as far as the bypass valve question goes, they only send out the 32mm billet valve with their kits regardless of -81 or -91.
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Memo6453 View Post
^ as far as the bypass valve question goes, they only send out the 32mm billet valve with their kits regardless of -81 or -91.
Im thinking I should update to the bigger one..cause everyone talking about compressor surge
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:48 PM
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Do you have yours installed correctly?

I swapped mine out to the Turbosmart Kompact 25mm and run the plumb back option. VTA was annoying since it's a constant hair dryer.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Memo6453 View Post
Do you have yours installed correctly?

I swapped mine out to the Turbosmart Kompact 25mm and run the plumb back option. VTA was annoying since it's a constant hair dryer.
I have not installed the kit yet. Just crossings all my Ts.. Should be in stalled in 2 Weeks
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:18 PM
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What's the correct orientation of the bypass valve? I have it where the KW logo is perpendicular with the ground and the vacuum line is facing the driver's side, is this correct? I test drove it but I haven't really gotten on the gas as I'm waiting to get my car tuned. Here's how I have it now.[attachment=89160:IMG_20151223_220137030.jpg]

Secondly, for those of you running an adjustable FPR, what's the optimal fuel pressure for your set up? For reference, my car is a 2000 MY. Thanks.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:31 PM
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I'm venting to atmosphere, I have the side of the piston facing the charge pipe with the head of the valve facing free air and intake elbow capped off.
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Old 12-23-2015, 11:15 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by schhim View Post
What's the correct orientation of the bypass valve? I have it where the KW logo is perpendicular with the ground and the vacuum line is facing the driver's side, is this correct? I test drove it but I haven't really gotten on the gas as I'm waiting to get my car tuned. Here's how I have it now.[attachment=89160:IMG_20151223_220137030.jpg]

Secondly, for those of you running an adjustable FPR, what's the optimal fuel pressure for your set up? For reference, my car is a 2000 MY. Thanks.
Fuel pressure isn't a consistent or safe way to gauge if the car is running a safe A/F. You need to adjust the fuel pressure via wideband reference. If your boosted, certainly with a base kit that relies on a rrfpr as the tune, you would be nuts not to be equipped with one if you care about the long term survival of your engine. You cant even get an accurate a/f from a dyno because they use tail sniffers, which are hit and miss/inaccurate especially if your running a dual exhaust. When they are picking up the a/f they read leaner then actual because of where they are picking up. If your still running a cat then your really off on the reading. So yeah, wideband is the only way to be safe and keep the car in tune all year around yourself, and you will need to if its an all year around car.

If your not solely tuning with a rrfpr, then stock pressure is 43.5psi. Most injectors will operate properly up to about 80psi. 50-60psi is a good medium to set for generally. I wouldn't go any lower then stock, and a bit more is nice, certainly if your running close to maxing out the injector duty, as the higher pressure will give you more headroom. After you set it and get tuned, dont touch it again or you will change your fuel tune.
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