Kraftwerks SC install walkthrough!
09-01-2008, 10:07 PM
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Kraftwerks SC install walkthrough!
So i've got a nice new KW kit here and a nice new 07 s2k in my garage. apparently it is my job to move all the parts from the boxes to the engine bay. this should be easy.
first off, the KW install manual is INSANE. its so beautiful i dont even want to touch it. i feel my puny, wretched human existence might smudge its perfection. its bound, laminated, and colorful. it even comes in its own box with a nice t-shirt! who doesn't love a free tshirt? i love free t shirts. send me a free t shirt.
anyway...
i am in no way knocking their manual at all - but i thought i'd throw in my .02 about some of the fun that will happen along the way that the manual might not forewarn you about
i will be updating as i go, so bear with me, and please feel free to throw questions at me on something you need that i didn't cover.
as a matter of fact, go ahead and grab the kraftwerks official manual if you'd like to follow along. this walkthrough will not cover absolutely everything - only the things that i felt i needed a little more clarity on. i'll also be mentioning fun things like personal injury, bodily harm, substance abuse, and breakfast cuisine. however, there will unfortunately be no full frontal nudity - though you may see my feet from time to time.
and obviously, for more information check out their website and poke around. there's lots of good info there.
here we go!
we begin with a stock motor - the best kind to work on!
...and 10 minutes later we get this (no bumper no airbox)
beautiful. go on with the install for a good while. drain the oil and coolant out of the car. yank the oil filter while you're at it. here was my first bit of fun......
KW says here to yank the "U" lines for the oil cooler. i've already drained the coolant from the system so no big deal... right? wrong.
this car turned into a babbling brook when i yanked this line. there was magic blue liquid flying all over my garage floor. be warned!
next:
the allen wrench needed to remove the tensioner bracket thing is a 6mm wrench. we tried 5.5 at first because it felt snug enough and it wasn't. i was terrified i stripped this poor guy's tensioner. use a 6mm, it fits VERY tight, but that's a good thing - you need a decent amount of force to get that ****er off!
continuing on....
here's a (shitty) picture of the barb connection that ties the 2 soft coolant lines together. the barb basically replaces the stock hard lines. no problem here, i just thought i'd mention that i had a hard time finding this stupid barb in the kit lol. the kit comes in about 795 boxes and i couldn't find it. i'm a moron, so this probably wont happen to anybody else, but i figured i'd post it up. it's in the box with the coolant lines.
more fun - onto the water pulley removal....
here is a problem. first off, you need to throw an allen key in one of the holes to hold the pulley still so you can yank the bolts off. KW tells you to remove the stock serp belt beforehand but now i'm thinking leaving it on will grab the pulley enough to let you get these 3 bolts off.
now i've run into another problem - i've got the bolts off, but the damn pulley just wont come!!!
i'm a gentle mechanic. so when i say WD40 that rusty center spot and beat the pulley off (in a loving manner) with a mallet i mean it. i was quite nervous putting stress on the pulley as i have never removed this off of my car before. prying with a screwdriver doesn't work. just use a rubber mallet.
now we're onto the new tensioner/belt bracket...
i really like how this kit adds a belt in the serp system for the SC, instead of the centrifugal systems that piggy back onto the crank pulley. i was VERY relieved when i read i didn't have to take that motherf'er off!
KW did me a great favor by threading the necessary bolts onto the bracket and securing them with rubber before they shipped the kit out. i was very glad i didn't have to rummage through a pile of hardware like some other kits... (ahem GREDDY!)
be careful with this bolt. when i was doing my comptech install i torqued the bolt in a little crooked and messed up the threads in the alternator. i immediately felt this bolt fighting me much in the same way. make sure it's straight, and don't wrench on it too hard while it's threading. however, it is holding a bracket up, so once its threaded nicely you'll want it to be pretty snug up against the alternator.
here's a picture with the stock tensioner pulley relocated onto the new KW bracket. this is where the directions got a little misleading. when i originally pulled off the pulley KW told me i would NOT be re-using the left handed bolt that secures it, but then when it comes time to relocate the pulley onto the bracket, the manual stated to 'use the original tensioner mounting bolt' when bolting this pulley back up.
LIES!
as you can see from 3 pics up, KW provides you with the correct (right hand threaded) bolt that will replace the stock one.
also, this is probably just me having moron moment #2, but be sure to put the pulley stepped spacer onto the REAR of the pulley. at first i bolted it up backwards and then my little brain wondered why the damn thing wouldn't spin freely.
this ends night 1. i didn't spend that much time on it - maybe 2 hours. however, we spent more time talking than actually working lol. we unfortunately had to skip the oil cooler donut removal. we started at 10pm and i didn't have the 30mm deep socket to pull the assembly, and obviously it was a little too late to make a run to autozone. not a super efficient night, but i feel i will make up for it in the morning....
continuing on...
we beginning the morning with a big ass socket, a big ass manual, and a really big ass rice crispy treat.
i just realized that this is my favorite picture in the whole world lol. tools, sugar, dyno charts, and sheet music all in the same shot! anyway...
the original oil 'donut' came off without a hitch. assemble the sandwich adapter and screw it on, as per the instructions...
now i'm under the car, searching for the bolts to take off by the driver's side motor mount so that i can mount this new oil relocation bracket.. the KW picture did not help. it is these 2 bolts...
the front bolt (BLACK HEAD in the center)
and the reat bolt (also BLACK HEAD, up towards the top of the pic)
i spent too long searching for these bolts. hope this helps someone
next, the manual states to run the first line from the stock oil filter location to the new oil filter bracket. they TELL you to use the long line with the straight fitting on one end, but they SHOW you in a picture the long line with a 45 degree at the end of it. trust the picture, not the words. this is what the WRONG ONE looks like..
now the beauty about this part is you just have to color match the fittings to the ends on the lines. if they don't match up, don't connect em! a pic of the new filter bracket..
the instructions tell you to thread the new filter connection onto the bracket and leave it loose. i found it easier to tighten the lines with the the filter assembly off the bracket completely.
now that we've got the line in place, we can hook in these really nice 'P' brackets so that the line won't move anywhere - NICE THINKING KW!!! here's the first one, on the passenger side of the oil pan..
here's the next one...
i wasn't positive which 10mm bolt to use to mount this up, but this one seemed to be the furthest away from both the steering shaft and the A/C pulley/belt.
this was by far the WORST bolt to get to in this install so far. it's very hard to thread the bolt with the pressure of the line pulling down on the 'P' bracket - not too mention fitting my hands in and around all the surrounded junk around it!
oh, by the way - see that 10mm directly to the right of the mounted bolt? yea, don't loosen that. ever. unless you really don't like life. i broke it loose thinking it was the correct bolt and a/c juice started shooting everywhere. i quickly turned it shut but it was too late - i was high as a kite. i spent 20 minutes philosophizing the concepts of time and space. then i ate that rice krispy treat and went back to work.
don't do drugs. or refrigerants.
here's a picture of how to run the 2nd line (this one has the straight end!). yank the lower radiator hose from it's bracket and run the line around the hose, so it doesn't interfere with anything.
oil cooler thingie installed.
onward!!!
now i'm at the point where i need to lower the supercharger down and then attach it to the bracket. i'm having a great time, until the blood starts flowing out of nowhere. huh??? low and behold....
stupid freakin' stock airbox bracket thingie. i wanted to cut it out with a sawzall. violently. instead, i just used a deep 10mm and threw it to a land far far away.
next is the bracket install...
this took me a while, just cus i'm paranoid of messing up the threading inside the block. take your time and make everything fit up before you start tightening. the bracket fits pretty snug so it may take a couple of minutes to position it correctly before you can start torquing things down.
also, the manual shows 2 pictures in succession - the first shows a guy lowering the bracket into the bay, and the 2nd is a picture of the bracket being bolted down. you will notice in the first picture the new auto-tensioner is bolted on to the bracket, and then in 2nd picture it's gone. our bracket came with the tensioner already bolted on, but it needs to be taken off before you can bolt down the bracket. if you leave it on you won't be able to get to the two bottom-most allen bolts that thread into the block. it is much easier to take the tensioner off the bracket before you start bolting things up. it is much harder to take the tensioner off the bracket after you start bolting things up... guess which way i chose?
next is the actual supercharger pulley. USE THE FREAKIN LOC-TITE ON THE BOLTS. we've all seen enough threads about the comptech supercharger pulley coming off because people don't take the 3 minutes to loc-tite everything up THE FIRST TIME.
i saw a big yellow warning on the top of the blower that mentioned turning it the wrong way could cause damage. because of this, i hand threaded the bolts on to keep the pulley in one place first. then after i put the new serp belt on the car i went back and torqued them down (in a diagonal pattern, of course.)
final assembly of both KW brackets, blower, and the new serp belt.
almost dinner time. who's coming to the metro meet tonight? chili's boneless wings FTW!
took the night off last night. woke up this morning to an empty garage. the car was stolen in the night.
let's make room for this intercooler.
here are the two top bolts to take off...
for the passenger's side
for the driver's side.
these come off easily. now lift up the condenser up and out of the bottom mounts.
piecing together the new bottom mounts confused me for about 15 minutes. i didn't have a clear picture so i wasn't sure what parts to use. for each side, you need one bracket, one grommet, and one bolt...
note - you need the bracket with the hole drilled in the center. i was confused as to which one to use.
now you're going to put these three pieces together like this (on the car, this is just for viewing purposes...)
the area where you can see the threads in this picture is where the radiator bracket will be.
here it is installed...
do the same thing for the other side. now the condenser will sit further back, allowing room for the intercooler.
next...
a/c canister relocation. dead simple
next we have the supercharger oil cooler...
this one came fully assembled. i only had to add in fittings, which i did WRONG here there are two spots to tighten these fittings down here. you can tighten down the large one but leave the smaller one loose so the 90 bends have room to move a bit.
the oil cooler mounts up to the brackets as per the instructions no problem. once again - the bottom most fitting in this picture is wrong. they should BOTH point down towards the ground, like this...
as you can see from this picture i've already run the oil lines to and from. TAKE CARE TO READ THE DIRECTIONS 700 TIMES HERE. if you mess up your oil lines your supercharger will be oil starved. if you call KW to submit a warranty request they will give you my home phone number and i will personally laugh at you
just take your time. run the long hose from the charger to the top of the cooler. leave the other one hanging off the charger for now - we'll need that last.
here is a picture of the lines run in front of the rad...
use the bolt in clips provided. they are awesome. i felt for a little more piece of mind though i'd throw in some zipties. for any of you that don't know me - it is not a TelosHedge'd install without a few zip ties!
the bottom line on the oil runs around the rad on the passenger side, through all the clips you installed, and up to the oil reservoir, shown here...
the bracket for the reservoir bolts up perfectly with no problems. note that you need 2 10mm head bolts to bolt this up. the stock ones are not long enough so KW supplies you with new ones. NOTE they are both different lengths. the 2 rad fans are different sizes so you need 2 different size bolts to make everything match up flush.
it's a good idea to put in the in and out banjo bolts and crush washers before you mount up the reservoir. make sure you orient them towards the driver's side of the car.
ANYWAY, notice the oil line feeding into the top of the reservoir - that line is FROM the bottom of the oil cooler. you will also notice i've placed more zip ties to this line to avoid the possibility of hitting into the rad fans. there are 2 tied to the line next to it (visible) and one more on the metal backing of the driver's side fan.
now we add the magnetic filter...
run the 2 foot hose from the bottom of the reservoir to the labeled side of the filter. not that the 'FLOW' arrow will be pointing away from the hose you just connected. mount the filter up to the crossmember via the large 'P' bracket.
remember that short line from the supercharger? pop it on to the other end of the filter. done with oil lines! fill the reservoir up as per the instructions and check for any leaks.
i'd also like to take a moment to point out how incredibly awesome the rotrex oil smells. 3 wiffs of this shit and i was on my ass yet again. what is KW trying to do to me?
don't do drugs. don't even do refrigerants. ride the oil high. (oh relax! im kidding. stay in school bozos!)
ok, on to more fun...
time for intercooler/intake piping. TAKE YOUR TIME with all this. make sure everything fits well, and all silicone is secured. take a few extra minutes with each worm clamp and decide where the best placement is for each piece, in case you ever need to get back to the head of it take it off.
we start with the intake silicone piece. it is a 180 degree piece that wraps over the charger...
simple enough. i found it easiest to position the silicone in from the top, and then get under the car to tighten it up.
afterwards, we have the j-pipe which attaches onto the outlet of the charger. this is also an easy install, and that's why i did not take a picture (its hard to get a good shot while under the car!) leave the silicone loose, for you need the play to fit the next piece...
****. this. piece.
this 90 degree, then 45 degree, then size change piece is a major pain in the ass. once again, i placed this piece in from the top,but i started towards the radiator. i then got under the car and pushed it under the steering rack and into the correct spot.
that was the easy part.
the hard part is getting the angle where you can apply enough pressure to push the piece onto the hard j-pipe. the only way i could do it was as follows:
lay perpendicular to the car - your head by the passenger side and your feet at the driver's side. your left hand goes up and holds the j-pipe. your right hand goes up behind the rad fan. then bend your elbow left around the steering rack and use your midget skills to magically become smaller and fit your hand through there to get a good grip on the end of the silicone. then use your praying skills and worship the deity of your choice and push like hell. if your prayers turn into swears, you're probably still doing it right - you're just getting closer keep faith - it will connect, it will just involve some pain. damnit i need a lift. once everything is on and good, don't forget to go back and tighten the j-pipe, along with all the other connections you made.
next, i routed the final intercooler pipe for this side of the cooler. i did not take a shot of this either as it was easy
now, because i still did not have an intercooler with me to work with, i opted to start from the throttle body and work my way down. this is also an easy pipe.
i chose to put the 45 degree silicone piece on the bottom of this pipe, instead of the lower pipe. it worked out better for me when it came time to connect the long and crazy bottom piece...
when running this pipe, be sure to clear the lower radiator hose or you won't line up with the upper intercooler pipe i installed first. here's a pick from the back to show you the clearances...
now with all the piping done, finally my buddy shows up with his intercooler...
i especially like how the intercooler is reversible, for those of you who would prefer to not have the logo blaring out the front of the car.
here i deviated from the manual a bit. the intercooler brackets that bolt up to the car are supposed to use 3 bolts a side - 2 for the actual bracket, and 1 to center the bracket (the middle hole). once i got the intercooler on, i realized for whatever reason i needed about 3/4" more room in the back. i simply removed the middle 'centering' bolt and moved the intercooler to taste. this does not affect the holding potential of the bracket at all. the intercooler piping moved with me, and that was that. here's a pick of the middle bolt removed...
now that all of this is done and good, i have to move back up top and take care of one more coolant hose. i need to run the crazy 180/180 line from the oil cooler to the stock line that runs from the block. allow me to display my affection for this line in the form of a picture...
the line needs to be (gently!!!) pulled back away from the motor to allow you to fit the new hose onto the hardline. there are 2 10mm head bolts that hold this line into place. the first one, right next to the end of the hardline, is easy to take out. the second one, located maybe 8 inches to the right, is not. the new serp belt is in the way. i had to pull the serp belt to get to this (which is now not so easy since the tensioner is quite low and there is more fun in the way than there was before). i had to remove the oil send line to gain access as well. boo. because of this, i strongly recommend running this coolant line early in the install. it is a 2 piece line so you can always disconnect it at the middle segment if you need to work around it. i will place this segment earlier in my writeup when i am finished so installers can see this at the correct time and save them some trouble. not the worst thing in the world, but it's so easily avoidable.
once i got the coolant line in place, i saw an easy spot for more zipties. let's keep everything away from those pulleys!
time for the bypass valve. wait a minute, is that a bosch box??? oh jeez...
the noobs here are wondering why i took a picture of this piece. the comptech guys are currently unable to comment because they fell over laughing and broke their faces on the floor.
i thought i was done with this damn bypass valve!!!!!!! ahhh!!!!!!!!!! when you get 50 bucks, get the metal upgraded one. end of rant
skipping ahead... time to pull the injectors. KW's GREAT instructions and even better pictures will get your rails off quickly.
be careful now when yanking the injectors. i dont know if this was just a fluke, or if the newer cars are different than MY00, but LOTS of fuel came out of the rail when i pulled the injectors. i mean it just kept coming. seriously, there is like 5 bucks in liquid form on my garage floor right now. you need a washcloth sized towel to grab it all.
good thing i'm not firing the car up for another 24 hours.
i've also noticed that the spacing situation is different on the newer s2k's. on my greddy kit i pulled my rail studs, placed spacers underneath them, then reinstalled them. then i added spacers on the other size of the rail, and reinstalled everything. this is different. KW has me remove the stock studs completely, and then replace them with new headless studs. then i threaded on aluminum spacers.
now, on the other side of the rail mount, place 1 brown insulating spacer on each of the new, gold studs.
by the way, before you start playing with spacers and studs and stuff, read this carefully, over and over....
HOLD ON TO THE SPACERS FOR DEAR LIFE.
HOLD ON TO THE SPACERS FOR DEAR LIFE.
HOLD ON TO THE SPACERS FOR DEAR LIFE.
DON'T DROP THEM. if you do you will not get them back (unless you have one of those long tool grabber things and some insane luck). you have been warned
i did a quick test fit and everything appears flush. i ran out of rubber gloves so i quit here for the night. tomorrow is injectors, and putting the ecu back on! oh thank god i'm almost done. i miss having my car here at my house, i want it back!
first off, the KW install manual is INSANE. its so beautiful i dont even want to touch it. i feel my puny, wretched human existence might smudge its perfection. its bound, laminated, and colorful. it even comes in its own box with a nice t-shirt! who doesn't love a free tshirt? i love free t shirts. send me a free t shirt.
anyway...
i am in no way knocking their manual at all - but i thought i'd throw in my .02 about some of the fun that will happen along the way that the manual might not forewarn you about
i will be updating as i go, so bear with me, and please feel free to throw questions at me on something you need that i didn't cover.as a matter of fact, go ahead and grab the kraftwerks official manual if you'd like to follow along. this walkthrough will not cover absolutely everything - only the things that i felt i needed a little more clarity on. i'll also be mentioning fun things like personal injury, bodily harm, substance abuse, and breakfast cuisine. however, there will unfortunately be no full frontal nudity - though you may see my feet from time to time.
and obviously, for more information check out their website and poke around. there's lots of good info there.
here we go!
we begin with a stock motor - the best kind to work on!
...and 10 minutes later we get this (no bumper no airbox)
beautiful. go on with the install for a good while. drain the oil and coolant out of the car. yank the oil filter while you're at it. here was my first bit of fun......
KW says here to yank the "U" lines for the oil cooler. i've already drained the coolant from the system so no big deal... right? wrong.
this car turned into a babbling brook when i yanked this line. there was magic blue liquid flying all over my garage floor. be warned!
next:
the allen wrench needed to remove the tensioner bracket thing is a 6mm wrench. we tried 5.5 at first because it felt snug enough and it wasn't. i was terrified i stripped this poor guy's tensioner. use a 6mm, it fits VERY tight, but that's a good thing - you need a decent amount of force to get that ****er off!
continuing on....
here's a (shitty) picture of the barb connection that ties the 2 soft coolant lines together. the barb basically replaces the stock hard lines. no problem here, i just thought i'd mention that i had a hard time finding this stupid barb in the kit lol. the kit comes in about 795 boxes and i couldn't find it. i'm a moron, so this probably wont happen to anybody else, but i figured i'd post it up. it's in the box with the coolant lines.
more fun - onto the water pulley removal....
here is a problem. first off, you need to throw an allen key in one of the holes to hold the pulley still so you can yank the bolts off. KW tells you to remove the stock serp belt beforehand but now i'm thinking leaving it on will grab the pulley enough to let you get these 3 bolts off.
now i've run into another problem - i've got the bolts off, but the damn pulley just wont come!!!
i'm a gentle mechanic. so when i say WD40 that rusty center spot and beat the pulley off (in a loving manner) with a mallet i mean it.
i was quite nervous putting stress on the pulley as i have never removed this off of my car before. prying with a screwdriver doesn't work. just use a rubber mallet.now we're onto the new tensioner/belt bracket...
i really like how this kit adds a belt in the serp system for the SC, instead of the centrifugal systems that piggy back onto the crank pulley. i was VERY relieved when i read i didn't have to take that motherf'er off!
KW did me a great favor by threading the necessary bolts onto the bracket and securing them with rubber before they shipped the kit out. i was very glad i didn't have to rummage through a pile of hardware like some other kits... (ahem GREDDY!)
be careful with this bolt. when i was doing my comptech install i torqued the bolt in a little crooked and messed up the threads in the alternator. i immediately felt this bolt fighting me much in the same way. make sure it's straight, and don't wrench on it too hard while it's threading. however, it is holding a bracket up, so once its threaded nicely you'll want it to be pretty snug up against the alternator.
here's a picture with the stock tensioner pulley relocated onto the new KW bracket. this is where the directions got a little misleading. when i originally pulled off the pulley KW told me i would NOT be re-using the left handed bolt that secures it, but then when it comes time to relocate the pulley onto the bracket, the manual stated to 'use the original tensioner mounting bolt' when bolting this pulley back up.
LIES!
as you can see from 3 pics up, KW provides you with the correct (right hand threaded) bolt that will replace the stock one.
also, this is probably just me having moron moment #2, but be sure to put the pulley stepped spacer onto the REAR of the pulley. at first i bolted it up backwards and then my little brain wondered why the damn thing wouldn't spin freely.
this ends night 1. i didn't spend that much time on it - maybe 2 hours. however, we spent more time talking than actually working lol. we unfortunately had to skip the oil cooler donut removal. we started at 10pm and i didn't have the 30mm deep socket to pull the assembly, and obviously it was a little too late to make a run to autozone. not a super efficient night, but i feel i will make up for it in the morning....
continuing on...
we beginning the morning with a big ass socket, a big ass manual, and a really big ass rice crispy treat.
i just realized that this is my favorite picture in the whole world lol. tools, sugar, dyno charts, and sheet music all in the same shot! anyway...
the original oil 'donut' came off without a hitch. assemble the sandwich adapter and screw it on, as per the instructions...
now i'm under the car, searching for the bolts to take off by the driver's side motor mount so that i can mount this new oil relocation bracket.. the KW picture did not help. it is these 2 bolts...
the front bolt (BLACK HEAD in the center)
and the reat bolt (also BLACK HEAD, up towards the top of the pic)
i spent too long searching for these bolts. hope this helps someone
next, the manual states to run the first line from the stock oil filter location to the new oil filter bracket. they TELL you to use the long line with the straight fitting on one end, but they SHOW you in a picture the long line with a 45 degree at the end of it. trust the picture, not the words. this is what the WRONG ONE looks like..
now the beauty about this part is you just have to color match the fittings to the ends on the lines. if they don't match up, don't connect em! a pic of the new filter bracket..
the instructions tell you to thread the new filter connection onto the bracket and leave it loose. i found it easier to tighten the lines with the the filter assembly off the bracket completely.
now that we've got the line in place, we can hook in these really nice 'P' brackets so that the line won't move anywhere - NICE THINKING KW!!! here's the first one, on the passenger side of the oil pan..
here's the next one...
i wasn't positive which 10mm bolt to use to mount this up, but this one seemed to be the furthest away from both the steering shaft and the A/C pulley/belt.
this was by far the WORST bolt to get to in this install so far. it's very hard to thread the bolt with the pressure of the line pulling down on the 'P' bracket - not too mention fitting my hands in and around all the surrounded junk around it!
oh, by the way - see that 10mm directly to the right of the mounted bolt? yea, don't loosen that. ever. unless you really don't like life. i broke it loose thinking it was the correct bolt and a/c juice started shooting everywhere. i quickly turned it shut but it was too late - i was high as a kite. i spent 20 minutes philosophizing the concepts of time and space. then i ate that rice krispy treat and went back to work.
don't do drugs. or refrigerants.
here's a picture of how to run the 2nd line (this one has the straight end!). yank the lower radiator hose from it's bracket and run the line around the hose, so it doesn't interfere with anything.
oil cooler thingie installed.
onward!!!
now i'm at the point where i need to lower the supercharger down and then attach it to the bracket. i'm having a great time, until the blood starts flowing out of nowhere. huh??? low and behold....
stupid freakin' stock airbox bracket thingie. i wanted to cut it out with a sawzall. violently. instead, i just used a deep 10mm and threw it to a land far far away.
next is the bracket install...
this took me a while, just cus i'm paranoid of messing up the threading inside the block. take your time and make everything fit up before you start tightening. the bracket fits pretty snug so it may take a couple of minutes to position it correctly before you can start torquing things down.
also, the manual shows 2 pictures in succession - the first shows a guy lowering the bracket into the bay, and the 2nd is a picture of the bracket being bolted down. you will notice in the first picture the new auto-tensioner is bolted on to the bracket, and then in 2nd picture it's gone. our bracket came with the tensioner already bolted on, but it needs to be taken off before you can bolt down the bracket. if you leave it on you won't be able to get to the two bottom-most allen bolts that thread into the block. it is much easier to take the tensioner off the bracket before you start bolting things up. it is much harder to take the tensioner off the bracket after you start bolting things up... guess which way i chose?
next is the actual supercharger pulley. USE THE FREAKIN LOC-TITE ON THE BOLTS. we've all seen enough threads about the comptech supercharger pulley coming off because people don't take the 3 minutes to loc-tite everything up THE FIRST TIME.
i saw a big yellow warning on the top of the blower that mentioned turning it the wrong way could cause damage. because of this, i hand threaded the bolts on to keep the pulley in one place first. then after i put the new serp belt on the car i went back and torqued them down (in a diagonal pattern, of course.)
final assembly of both KW brackets, blower, and the new serp belt.
almost dinner time. who's coming to the metro meet tonight? chili's boneless wings FTW!
took the night off last night. woke up this morning to an empty garage. the car was stolen in the night.
let's make room for this intercooler.
here are the two top bolts to take off...
for the passenger's side
for the driver's side.
these come off easily. now lift up the condenser up and out of the bottom mounts.
piecing together the new bottom mounts confused me for about 15 minutes. i didn't have a clear picture so i wasn't sure what parts to use. for each side, you need one bracket, one grommet, and one bolt...
note - you need the bracket with the hole drilled in the center. i was confused as to which one to use.
now you're going to put these three pieces together like this (on the car, this is just for viewing purposes...)
the area where you can see the threads in this picture is where the radiator bracket will be.
here it is installed...
do the same thing for the other side. now the condenser will sit further back, allowing room for the intercooler.
next...
a/c canister relocation. dead simple
next we have the supercharger oil cooler...
this one came fully assembled. i only had to add in fittings, which i did WRONG here
there are two spots to tighten these fittings down here. you can tighten down the large one but leave the smaller one loose so the 90 bends have room to move a bit.the oil cooler mounts up to the brackets as per the instructions no problem. once again - the bottom most fitting in this picture is wrong. they should BOTH point down towards the ground, like this...
as you can see from this picture i've already run the oil lines to and from. TAKE CARE TO READ THE DIRECTIONS 700 TIMES HERE. if you mess up your oil lines your supercharger will be oil starved. if you call KW to submit a warranty request they will give you my home phone number and i will personally laugh at you
just take your time. run the long hose from the charger to the top of the cooler. leave the other one hanging off the charger for now - we'll need that last.
here is a picture of the lines run in front of the rad...
use the bolt in clips provided. they are awesome. i felt for a little more piece of mind though i'd throw in some zipties. for any of you that don't know me - it is not a TelosHedge'd install without a few zip ties!
the bottom line on the oil runs around the rad on the passenger side, through all the clips you installed, and up to the oil reservoir, shown here...
the bracket for the reservoir bolts up perfectly with no problems. note that you need 2 10mm head bolts to bolt this up. the stock ones are not long enough so KW supplies you with new ones. NOTE they are both different lengths. the 2 rad fans are different sizes so you need 2 different size bolts to make everything match up flush.
it's a good idea to put in the in and out banjo bolts and crush washers before you mount up the reservoir. make sure you orient them towards the driver's side of the car.
ANYWAY, notice the oil line feeding into the top of the reservoir - that line is FROM the bottom of the oil cooler. you will also notice i've placed more zip ties to this line to avoid the possibility of hitting into the rad fans. there are 2 tied to the line next to it (visible) and one more on the metal backing of the driver's side fan.
now we add the magnetic filter...
run the 2 foot hose from the bottom of the reservoir to the labeled side of the filter. not that the 'FLOW' arrow will be pointing away from the hose you just connected. mount the filter up to the crossmember via the large 'P' bracket.
remember that short line from the supercharger? pop it on to the other end of the filter. done with oil lines! fill the reservoir up as per the instructions and check for any leaks.
i'd also like to take a moment to point out how incredibly awesome the rotrex oil smells. 3 wiffs of this shit and i was on my ass yet again. what is KW trying to do to me?
don't do drugs. don't even do refrigerants. ride the oil high. (oh relax! im kidding. stay in school bozos!)
ok, on to more fun...
time for intercooler/intake piping. TAKE YOUR TIME with all this. make sure everything fits well, and all silicone is secured. take a few extra minutes with each worm clamp and decide where the best placement is for each piece, in case you ever need to get back to the head of it take it off.
we start with the intake silicone piece. it is a 180 degree piece that wraps over the charger...
simple enough. i found it easiest to position the silicone in from the top, and then get under the car to tighten it up.
afterwards, we have the j-pipe which attaches onto the outlet of the charger. this is also an easy install, and that's why i did not take a picture (its hard to get a good shot while under the car!) leave the silicone loose, for you need the play to fit the next piece...
****. this. piece.
this 90 degree, then 45 degree, then size change piece is a major pain in the ass. once again, i placed this piece in from the top,but i started towards the radiator. i then got under the car and pushed it under the steering rack and into the correct spot.
that was the easy part.
the hard part is getting the angle where you can apply enough pressure to push the piece onto the hard j-pipe. the only way i could do it was as follows:
lay perpendicular to the car - your head by the passenger side and your feet at the driver's side. your left hand goes up and holds the j-pipe. your right hand goes up behind the rad fan. then bend your elbow left around the steering rack and use your midget skills to magically become smaller and fit your hand through there to get a good grip on the end of the silicone. then use your praying skills and worship the deity of your choice and push like hell. if your prayers turn into swears, you're probably still doing it right - you're just getting closer
keep faith - it will connect, it will just involve some pain. damnit i need a lift. once everything is on and good, don't forget to go back and tighten the j-pipe, along with all the other connections you made.next, i routed the final intercooler pipe for this side of the cooler. i did not take a shot of this either as it was easy
now, because i still did not have an intercooler with me to work with, i opted to start from the throttle body and work my way down. this is also an easy pipe.
i chose to put the 45 degree silicone piece on the bottom of this pipe, instead of the lower pipe. it worked out better for me when it came time to connect the long and crazy bottom piece...
when running this pipe, be sure to clear the lower radiator hose or you won't line up with the upper intercooler pipe i installed first. here's a pick from the back to show you the clearances...
now with all the piping done, finally my buddy shows up with his intercooler...
i especially like how the intercooler is reversible, for those of you who would prefer to not have the logo blaring out the front of the car.
here i deviated from the manual a bit. the intercooler brackets that bolt up to the car are supposed to use 3 bolts a side - 2 for the actual bracket, and 1 to center the bracket (the middle hole). once i got the intercooler on, i realized for whatever reason i needed about 3/4" more room in the back. i simply removed the middle 'centering' bolt and moved the intercooler to taste. this does not affect the holding potential of the bracket at all. the intercooler piping moved with me, and that was that. here's a pick of the middle bolt removed...
now that all of this is done and good, i have to move back up top and take care of one more coolant hose. i need to run the crazy 180/180 line from the oil cooler to the stock line that runs from the block. allow me to display my affection for this line in the form of a picture...
the line needs to be (gently!!!) pulled back away from the motor to allow you to fit the new hose onto the hardline. there are 2 10mm head bolts that hold this line into place. the first one, right next to the end of the hardline, is easy to take out. the second one, located maybe 8 inches to the right, is not. the new serp belt is in the way. i had to pull the serp belt to get to this (which is now not so easy since the tensioner is quite low and there is more fun in the way than there was before). i had to remove the oil send line to gain access as well. boo. because of this, i strongly recommend running this coolant line early in the install. it is a 2 piece line so you can always disconnect it at the middle segment if you need to work around it. i will place this segment earlier in my writeup when i am finished so installers can see this at the correct time and save them some trouble. not the worst thing in the world, but it's so easily avoidable.
once i got the coolant line in place, i saw an easy spot for more zipties. let's keep everything away from those pulleys!
time for the bypass valve. wait a minute, is that a bosch box??? oh jeez...
the noobs here are wondering why i took a picture of this piece. the comptech guys are currently unable to comment because they fell over laughing and broke their faces on the floor.
i thought i was done with this damn bypass valve!!!!!!! ahhh!!!!!!!!!! when you get 50 bucks, get the metal upgraded one. end of rant
skipping ahead... time to pull the injectors. KW's GREAT instructions and even better pictures will get your rails off quickly.
be careful now when yanking the injectors. i dont know if this was just a fluke, or if the newer cars are different than MY00, but LOTS of fuel came out of the rail when i pulled the injectors. i mean it just kept coming. seriously, there is like 5 bucks in liquid form on my garage floor right now. you need a washcloth sized towel to grab it all.
good thing i'm not firing the car up for another 24 hours.
i've also noticed that the spacing situation is different on the newer s2k's. on my greddy kit i pulled my rail studs, placed spacers underneath them, then reinstalled them. then i added spacers on the other size of the rail, and reinstalled everything. this is different. KW has me remove the stock studs completely, and then replace them with new headless studs. then i threaded on aluminum spacers.
now, on the other side of the rail mount, place 1 brown insulating spacer on each of the new, gold studs.
by the way, before you start playing with spacers and studs and stuff, read this carefully, over and over....
HOLD ON TO THE SPACERS FOR DEAR LIFE.
HOLD ON TO THE SPACERS FOR DEAR LIFE.
HOLD ON TO THE SPACERS FOR DEAR LIFE.
DON'T DROP THEM. if you do you will not get them back (unless you have one of those long tool grabber things and some insane luck). you have been warned
i did a quick test fit and everything appears flush. i ran out of rubber gloves so i quit here for the night. tomorrow is injectors, and putting the ecu back on! oh thank god i'm almost done. i miss having my car here at my house, i want it back!
09-02-2008, 08:49 AM
#2
Hey everyone this is my car i was amazed at how quick Teloshedge works on this car and is very gentle with the car lol. Makes you feel safe to give you him your car. he also got a lot done quickly! i was just a bum annoying him and watching 
. im not too mechanically inclined. But i did learn alot!
After you watch this done once im pretty sure most people could do it themselves. it doesn't seem like a very hard install.
i was amazed at how quick Teloshedge works on this car and is very gentle with the car lol. Makes you feel safe to give you him your car. he also got a lot done quickly! i was just a bum annoying him and watching . im not too mechanically inclined. But i did learn alot! After you watch this done once im pretty sure most people could do it themselves. it doesn't seem like a very hard install.
