S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

In light of a recent Blown HG for one of our

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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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nice, and good luck, keep us posted
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Ian300D,Feb 17 2009, 12:21 PM
For the BMW guy's it was common to hear them use the OEM head gasket but use ARP head studs to really torque them down to the head. This seem to aleviate most people's issue, this of course and you NEED ot have a decent tune. Any S2k guys using different head stud kits with sucess? Or is that a non-issue.
Be careful what you read, in fact most bolts are torque to yeild and going tighter may apply more force but the factigue restitance will go way down. I would highly recomend following the factory procedure and then retorquing after heat cycling for good measure.

Engineering 101, the greater the stresses the shorter the lift span






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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jwa4378,Feb 17 2009, 01:14 PM
My gasket failed because the previous owner did not re-torque the head bolts of the head (he had the first HG leak a bit last year, after 20,000 miles of no issues, and replaced it). The bolts must be re-torqued after 500 and 1000 miles (per the HELMS). My head was just "loose" as a result, probably lifted a tad with the boost, and screwed the gasket. Virgin engine's don't need to worry about this as much... Their bolts have never been broken from the factory setting.

I did not have ANY heat related issues, as I caught it early enough (hopefully...).

I am going to use ARP studs when it all goes back together (got a new set just sitting here that I never used, so why not?).

John
Heating and cooling is the key not milage. You need to retorque after the first time you reach your operating temp and cool to a steady state. Then I would recomend you retorque after the next spirited drive and I guess if you were really anal you could do it again after 20 or 30 more heat cycles for good measure.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by TRBOKEV,Feb 17 2009, 08:22 AM
All these head gaskets that are blowing are mostly thicker head gaskets and not stock ones.

They (thicker gaskets) seem to have a pretty crappy life unfortunately.
I was thinking of going head gasket, but I dont want to deal with pulling the head every 15-20K miles cause the thing blows out. (my car is my daily driver)
exactly why im staying stock compression now. I can make 371whp on 9psi and if I want more Ill throw in some C16 and run 16psi and make 500whp or so ( when that time comes ). The fact that a lot of people are running stock HG and seeing great results makes me want to just build the engine when it comes time to lower the compression. Building the engine is the correct way to lower CR anyways.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Feb 17 2009, 11:39 AM
Well, my timing is advanced to the point if my METH stops there will be some trouble, however my tune is pretty rich hardly see 11's............. and this is in COLD COLD weather, mostly mid to low 10's maybe 10.5 ar redline
what kinda timing advance are you running? Are you also 2 heat ranges colder on your plugs....if you arent you need to be...gives ya a little more headroom.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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1 step colder I believe, Greddy ISO 8 Racing plugs
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyFloyd,Feb 17 2009, 05:05 PM
what kinda timing advance are you running? Are you also 2 heat ranges colder on your plugs....if you arent you need to be...gives ya a little more headroom.
2 heat ranges is simply overkill and it NOT needed for 300 HP.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyFloyd,Feb 17 2009, 05:04 PM
exactly why im staying stock compression now. I can make 371whp on 9psi and if I want more Ill throw in some C16 and run 16psi and make 500whp or so ( when that time comes ). The fact that a lot of people are running stock HG and seeing great results makes me want to just build the engine when it comes time to lower the compression. Building the engine is the correct way to lower CR anyways.
You are right on the building of the motor to lower compression.. Its definitely the more dependable way to go IMO.

Do you have a dyno chart for your 371 WHP pull?
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jwa4378,Feb 17 2009, 05:14 PM
My gasket failed because the previous owner did not re-torque the head bolts of the head (he had the first HG leak a bit last year, after 20,000 miles of no issues, and replaced it). The bolts must be re-torqued after 500 and 1000 miles (per the HELMS). My head was just "loose" as a result, probably lifted a tad with the boost, and screwed the gasket. Virgin engine's don't need to worry about this as much... Their bolts have never been broken from the factory setting.
i don't know about this. somebody chime in?
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TelosHedge,Feb 17 2009, 10:42 PM
i don't know about this. somebody chime in?
LOL, Yeah all head bolts were at one time or another torqued in, weather it be at the factory or by a person putting in another head gasket its pretty much all the same. The factory doesnt re torque them after 500 or 1000 miles either.

I think the problem lies in prep of the block and head as well as the gasket itself (thicker ones).
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