Does anyone happen to have the CT SC installation Instructions in a pdf file? I am interested to see what i would be in for.

 

http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/...2K_SC_2005.pdf

 

James,
Thanks for the link!

Can some can explain the differnece between these two kits?


Im guessing this would be the CT SC with AC kit?


CT SC Without AC..

 

I was reading through another thread and found some good information for myself and whoever else might be interested...

This is a checklist of the CT SC Kit.
http://www.ct-engineering.com/instal...0Checklist.pdf

Also one for the AC Kit.
http://www.ct-engineering.com/instal...0Checklist.pdf

This would be handy when actually purcahsing a used kit...

 

It may be worth looking into the SOS kit, but there are far less used ones out there. It uses the 1220 blower, and many would say it is even easier to install than the Comptech (it will be more expensive used, though, due to relative scarcity). It also has better electronics and a bigger aftercooler...and those could be used on a CTSC too (SOS FVM instead of the Comptech ESM). The electronics are not really comparable to an emanage or standalone, though.

The base kits are 270-300HP, depending on the dyno/type (lower to higher...dyno dynamics/mustang/dynojet/dynapack with some overlap), a little more with a better exhaust. I was where you are now 6 months ago, and I've successfully installed an SOS kit I got new all by myself. It really isn't hard, it just takes a long time; I took 22 hours. I made 305HP on a mustang dyno at 95f, and I have a CT exhaust, too.

Didn't see anyone answer you about a wideband. It's an oxygen sensor that is better able to read air/fuel ratios as it has a "wide band" of voltage outputs as it is better able to read O2 levels precisely. A typical narrow-band O2 sensor will read relatively well in the stoichiometric range (13-15:1), but horribly outside of that. Typically, it would be installed in a test pipe as a third O2 sensor (the stock car has 2), or it can be mounted on your exhaust manifold (a shop mounted a bung on mine for $15). Then, the wire from the O2 sensor runs to a AFR gauge/UEGO controller in your car, or to a UEGO controller going to a standalone ECU. Getting a wideband is recommended, nay REQUIRED, for adding forced induction. I got the AEM gauge/controller and O2 sensor for $200 at Amazon. Once you get the bung in, the install is not difficult.

What's the worst that could happen with a base kit? Running too lean and popping the motor...that takes a lean AFR for a long duration, but it can happen. Really, just forgetting to run a vacuum line or having the vacuum line disconnect from the FPR could do that, too, although the more likely scenario is that it runs so lean it is effectively a fuel cut before you hit 7000. A hole in that hose could lean you out, though. But, I think I'm scaring you as that hose is under no real strain, so such a scenario is unlikely...and won't happen if you have an AFR gauge

 

Definitely DONT get the non aftercooled kit!! Super high IAT's and probably knock if you ever raise the boost at all or during a hot day.

 

Yes makes sure you get a kit with the Aftercooler. This kit never should have been offered without one. If you track it hard, it will be the first and last time. Keeping the IAT temp in check is very important, and crucial in high load situations.

 

Yes this is correct. In that rpm range where you are tracking you will be missing out on the bulk of the power curve of the greddy, unless you are doing X or very small tight tracks which there can be some good benefit. You will be in the sweet spot with an SC on normal size road courses. The SC is also more forgiving in power delivery, easier to modulate becuase all power is controlled by your foot, there is no lag or spool time surprises coming out of a turn. The greddy being such a small turbo is pretty responsive compared to other larger turbos that are in the power range of a high boost SC, so to be fair many have enjoyed a greddy on the track, but then it gets back to the power curve and what rpms your in, on a good size track they just dont make much sense to me.

 

Wow, thanks for the info! So I need to be on the lookout for an AEM EMS 2 to get started and a wideband 02 sensor. I have an invidia 70mm TP that will need another bung (behind the original 02 sensor or does it not matter?) Do I need to buy something else to hook up the WB to the EMS? Ill have to do some more research on the SOS. I am trying to watch my budget so if the CT is cheaper I might want to just stick with that. What does the Sos kit top out at? I was thinking about also getting an upgraded pulley to up the boost right off the bat before I pay for a tune. How much is the next pulley up? How many sizes are there? Would I be able to upgrade the pulley at all without upgrading anything else?

 

If you get the AEM Wideband Gauge/ UEGO controller, you can hook the O2 sensor to that, and then the gauge/controller has an output for the EMS. The Wideband should be at least 18" from the block. Most mount them between the 2 O2 sensors, so before the one in the test pipe.

AEM also sells a UEGO controller only (without gauge), which must be used with the EMS, but the gauge/UEGO controller unit is like $20 more, so perhaps get the gauge. The real deciding factor (IMO) is whether you will run ONLY a serial gauge (which can display MANY things) from the EMS. Either way, the AEM EMS can read the AFR if you hook it up right...just one has a gauge, one doesn't.

This is what I have:
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4100-UE...2667911&sr=8-2

Controller, no gauge:
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-2310-In...667911&sr=8-10

If you are starting with a stock boost kit and no EMS, you really shouldn't add more boost...your stock ECU fuel maps won't work well, and you'll overload the stock injectors. To up the boost beyond the stock 5.5-6psi, you really need 3 things...new injectors, better fuel managment (EMS), and a new pulley. Pulleys are cheap...less than a C-note. You will need an upgraded clutch soon after installing the blower...$1500 installed.

The SOS kits can get close to 500HP with built motors, but you would need a built motor, a 1200 blower with a small pulley, and a really good tune for that. Oh, and an upgraded diff and clutch. Such a thing would cost $15K+ all said and done.

If I were you, I'd start out with a bone-stock CT or SOS system. An AEM EMS will not have OBD2 diagnostics, but the base supercharger kit uses the stock ECU, so you will retain that. That's what I did for the same reason. If you don't know what you're doing yet, having the OBD2 is a big help...and trust me, get a scanner that can clear codes. I use a bluetooth reader with the Android app Torque.

Then, when you want more power, get the other 3 things to upgrade the boost. All 3, with tuning, will require $2500, and AEM EMS S2 units used are still not cheap...there's a high demand for them. EMS is $1400, injectors $500, pulley $100, tuning/dyno time $400+. Add more if you can't install that stuff yourself...installing the blower is a $1500 job.